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Why isn't desi food considered high-end cuisine around the world?

Why isn't desi food considered high-end cuisine around the world?

The problem is with us. We haven’t really understood the value of our cuisine
22 Jul, 2018

I've always loved desi food and nobody makes a meaner desi cuisine than Pakistani and North Indian mothers. However what is the sub-continental diaspora to do when mothers are not around? The answer to the question is addressed in this write up.

Living in the US, in overtly desi-populated cities such as Houston, Los Angeles, New York or New Jersey, exceptional desi food is available at a moment’s notice. But, I live in a town that is somewhat smaller in terms of the desi diaspora and the eating-out opportunities. And since a lot of desis are spread around the globe and not necessarily in London and New York, most of us don’t have many options when looking for desi food.

What to do?

Should we be changing our attitude towards cuisine from the subcontinent?

We raise our hands up in frustration, shake our heads, and then satisfy our food cravings with mediocre opportunities. All the while brainwashing ourselves, and others, into thinking that our desi eating -out options are ubiquitously delicious; which, of course, is far from truthful.

Las Vegas reigns in the fine dining circuit, but not of the desi kind. If one is craving biryani, qorma, haleem, kebab or chicken tikka, one is left with almost no delicious and spontaneous eating-out options. It’s not that there are no restaurants, but it’s simply that the restaurants have a rather unpalatable selection on the menu.

The chicken tikka at the local Pakistani restaurant is too red, dry and bland, pulao tastes as if made with stock cubes and store- bought broth, whereas the kebabs are just not tender or flavourful. As for the Indian restaurants, well, they use too much youghurt and cream for all curry-based items, and I’ve never been a big fan of paneer. Hence, for a night of spontaneous eating out, desi food is not a happy option in my city.

There are a few home-based caterers who make mean biryani and nihari, but that has to be pre-ordered, removing spontaneous from the equation. The choices are limited and options lesser still, and that is to say the least.

In cities such as Houston, Los Angeles, New York and London (where the population of subcontinentals is in the tens of thousands) there are restaurants, that could match the flavours of the restaurants in Pakistan, hence desi residents living there indulge in spontaneous eating out. Heck, desis living in neighbouring cities travel there simply to eat.

Abounding with multiple, eating-out shopping plazas, blocks and streets, and because of the competition amongst restaurateurs, here taste is reasonable at its worst, and sublime at best. Paan shops, lassi hangouts and chaat houses too, all dedicated to their craft speckle desi neighbourhoods. Nihari and haleem houses, biryani hangouts, mithai (sweetmeat) shops and barbeque sit-downs also abound in the city.

Numerous home-based caterers prepare take-away desi tea snacks such as samosa, shami kababs, chaat, pakora or for freezer storage, but that’s the story of a few cities and not the norm for cities where so many of us live.

I often wonder why subcontinental food has never picked up, commercially, or as the go-to food for other ethnicities in cities around the world, like say Chinese, Mexican, Japanese, Italian or French cuisine? If that were the case then most cities would host desi restaurants and we would get desired tasting motherland cuisine.

Why has the cuisine of the subcontinent — an ancient cuisine, delicious, sublime, loved by chefs and foodies, evolved, rich, studied by scientists for its benefits and consumed by a billion-and-a-half on this planet — failed to pick up in the West?

According to Krishnendu Ray, professor at New York University — who has been studying the cuisine’s rise for more than a decade — the answer likely has to do with a certain lack of appreciation for the skill required to make Indian food. The cuisine is among the most labour-intensive in the world. And yet Americans and other ethnicities are unwilling to pay beyond a certain and decidedly low price point.

“There’s a real problem on the demand side, people aren’t willing to pay for good Indian food. If you aren’t willing to pay for it, you won’t get quality. And if you don’t get quality, it’s hard to grow.” The whole system has forced a lot of restaurants to rely on less skilled workers and cooks. No one would spend money on Indian food, especially expensive Indian food.

And tragically (and ironically) I can’t agree more.

Having lived abroad for more than 20 years, I have done my fair share of fine dining and eating out. Living in the city I do (Las Vegas), a city known for its high-end restaurants, besides other attractions, I have paid expensive bills at restaurants for all kinds of cuisine, but not desi.

Before you judge me, please know that there are no high-end desi restaurants in my hometown, but then again I often ask myself if I would be willing to go a high-end expensive Pakistani/Indian restaurant and pay an expensive tab? The answer is “probably not.”

Now you can judge me, but at least I’m being honest.

Writing this piece has made me realise that the problem is with us, and not with other ethnicities for not opting for Pakistani/Indian cuisine. We haven’t really understood the value of our cuisine. Even though we cook the cuisine ourselves, have seen it being made in our kitchens for centuries, know its sublime taste, its labour-intensive preparation, its history and journey — and we are emotional about it too — but regardless, we aren’t even willing to pay for its value when eating out.

Loving desi food, and claiming so in public is only but a talking point and rhetoric for us. If we truly cared for its value, and what it brings to us, we would be willing to pay for it when living, or visiting foreign lands. That would make available good quality desi food around the world, and people like you and me could indulge in delicious spontaneous eating out at a moment’s craving and notice.

Yes, the fault is not in our eating stars, it’s in our eating attitude.


The writer is a freelance journalist and author of Feast with a taste of Amir Khusro

Originally published in Dawn, EOS, July 22nd, 2018

Comments

Salam Jul 22, 2018 11:02am
There are high end restaurants in the UK for desi food and must do good business to keep going. They are visited by everyone. I think the American market is similar to the Australian where desi food isn't that common outside of high desi populations guess it is a migration pattern too that determines that.
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Big Lebowski Jul 22, 2018 11:27am
I don't know about Pakistani restaurants but I've come across various high end Indian restaurants in New York, London, Chicago & other cities. One such high end Indian Restaurant chain is 'Indian Accent' which has presence in several cities around the world.
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Amir Shah Jul 22, 2018 12:31pm
I somewhat disagree with your comments but then I live in the UK and there are number of very high end desi restaurant which has Michelin star rating for the culinary skills. There are hundreds of every day restaurant as well of course but obviously it is very much depend on the demand rather simply on the cost of food preparation. The high end desi restaurants are excellent in quality and of course in price as well but then people here prepare to pay the price for the quality of food they expect from these restaurants. Again the spontaneous desi food availibity is certainly available in this country and also in all supermarkets but that very much depends on the price v quality. I know the US is very large country and if the demand is very limited then no one is going to invest in such cuisine where return in very slow. However, I agree with your point that desi cuisine in certain parts of the world is not as easily available as Chinese or Mexican food.
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JoeDubai Jul 22, 2018 12:47pm
The vast majority of desi food is heavy, oily, and frankly cannot be presented in an artistic ways like some other cuisines such as sushi. Nowadays people want to eat lighter foods, the food should look as good as it tastes (so they can take pics for Instagram), and can be shared with friends without having to feel too heavy or bloated after the meal. Sadly its very difficult to achieve that with authentic desi food which involves curries, breads, and very strong smells and tastes. Its simply not ideal for fine dining in its current format. Lastly, desis need to be willing to pay fine dining prices for our food so chefs and restaurants are encouraged to innovate and develop modern versions of traditional desi cuisines. We are happy to pay for Zuma, Nobu, etc but when it comes to desi food we are quick to point out the desi dhaba that has the best food.
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Pradeep Jul 22, 2018 01:02pm
Dear Bisma, Before we change our attitude towards desi khaana, we need to change our bias towards "desi mothers". Generalizing such things is long passe. i am for one a "desi father" per say who cooks for his family almost 3-4 times a week. Also living in small town USA. Your comment "nobody makes a meaner desi cuisine than Pakistani and North Indian mothers" is misplaced. Also, please speak for your self when you include "we" as in who is not willing to pay. Honestly, I don't pay but I know of plenty who do. Otherwise point well taken. Thanks.
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Ali S Jul 22, 2018 03:45pm
Short answer: desis are generally cheap, thrifty people (regardless of their incomes), and they’re the only ones who can judge desi food properly. To have high-end cuisine you need people who can appreciate it and are willing to spend accordingly on it.
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candasuck Jul 22, 2018 05:02pm
Gourmet food usually pair with wine or other alcohol . Pakistani food lack presentation and alcohol which totally against Western society concept for fine dinning.
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NADIM Jul 22, 2018 06:15pm
I will also not pay at the high end restaurant. The reasons are: 1 There service is pathetic. 2 Decor is terrible. 3 Cleanliness is deplorable. 4 Restrooms are horrible. 5. Courtesy & politeness by the staff is missing. 6 Kitchen hygiene / cleanliness is questionable. 7 Most desi restaurants are run and owned by less literate people with obvious results.
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Speak_truth Jul 22, 2018 11:16pm
Western cultural hegemony ?
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kash Jul 23, 2018 06:37pm
to be frank high end cuisine is pants. they all go minimalistic. However, desi food is not minimalistic. Just watch shows like Masterchef UK. Desi dishes fill the plate, worldwide cuisine in particular michelin star cuisine does not. why pay £100's on worldwide cuisine that don't fill you up whereas a few £ with desi food will fill you up well and proper.
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Abbas Aug 02, 2018 09:28pm
Icant agree more to this piece. Being an expat for 3 years already I have faced the same problems here in Beijing. But Chinese food lovers unlike westerners as you mentioned are more attracted towards Pakistani/Indian Cuisine (if its not too spicy). The working class here like to pay for our food which is of course not cheap. Taste has been a problem yes. Pakistani/Indian restaurant managers dont care about this important aspect a lot. They only care about their pockets
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