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This karrahi gosht recipe is a must-try for all meat lovers

This karrahi gosht recipe is a must-try for all meat lovers

And of course, who can resist it with piping hot naan?
Updated 10 Dec, 2017

Many years ago, while getting dressed in my Karachi flat, I had the BBC World channel on, and heard the announcer mention something he called Ball-tee in his plummy British accent.

Not having a clue as to what he was talking about, I paid him attention and discovered that he was referring to balti gosht, that great favourite of desi carnivores. According to him, it was also the preferred meal for British football fans after they had consumed many pints following a game involving their teams.

But more revealingly, the announcer solemnly informed his audience that the dish originated in the valley of Baltistan. I suppressed a laugh as I have been to the picturesque but poor area in Pakistan’s mountainous northern region, and am familiar with the shortage of fuel and meat there.

But this is a common attempt to romanticise the origins of balti gosht, or as the more commonly known karrahi gosht. Obviously, the wok-like pan used for its preparation has given both variations their name.

The street karrahi uses a lot of tomatoes that leave a distinct, thickish sauce ideal for dipping your naan in. I first came across the dish when I moved to Lahore in 1967 and was taken to Abbot Road, the home of takka-tak, or gurda-kapura. One guy there also did a wicked karrahi, and our mouths would salivate as we waited for him to serve us.

Mulling over the origins of balti gosht, the dish brings back fond memories of old friends

Abraham Joshua became a good friend in those days, and he knew a lot about Lahori street food. Also known as Kaka, he was the member of a distinguished Christian family. Sadly, he and his family have all migrated to America, and who can blame them? Many years ago, when I was living in Washington, I called Kaka for his karrahi recipe and he immediately obliged.

Recently, I thought I would cook it again, and once more, Kaka was more than helpful, sending me this recipe:

Ingredients

4 pounds [just under two kilos] boneless goat/lamb meat, diced

4 seranno peppers [hot green chillies], chopped

2/3 large ripe tomatoes cut in half

1/4 pound unsalted butter

12 cloves garlic, finely chopped

1/2 inch x 1 inch ginger, finely sliced

salt to taste

1 teaspoon red ground chilli powder

1 tablespoon ground coriander

1/4 teaspoon ground turmeric

Method

Put meat in a wok, add all the veggies, spread out on top; cut butter and spread on the sides of wok. Throw in all dried spices. No water: add only if meat does not cook with liquids released. Start cooking on high heat with the wok covered.

Start to mix when liquid appears. Taste for salt and spices. Lower heat and let simmer till the gravy forms. Keep stirring and checking from time to time to see if the meat is cooked.

Add water only if necessary. It is cooked when the butter separates. Extra butter will not hurt. Eat hot with fresh naan.

Trying it recently, I was transported for a moment to Kaka’s welcoming dinner table in Lahore when he and his charming wife Linda entertained so generously. This is the power of food shared with old friends: the taste buds remember when the brain cells don’t.

This reminds me of a new meat dish my brother’s talented cook Zain served. Tender and not very spicy, it consisted of excellent goat meat gently simmered in finely sliced garlic and ginger, with a little freshly ground black pepper. I have to cook this dish before I am absolutely sure of the recipe, but obviously the quality of the meat is central to the success of this simple dish.


Originally published in Dawn, EOS, December 10th, 2017

Comments

Adeel Dec 10, 2017 01:03pm
Nice
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Hamid Dec 10, 2017 01:47pm
No way. The looks is not good.
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Ashutosh Mishra Dec 10, 2017 05:38pm
Waahh janaab!!
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Jay Shah Dec 10, 2017 07:52pm
Thanks for sharing. There are various ways to make Karrahi. I would suggest checking Peshawari Namak Mandi Karrahi on YouTube.
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Ahmed Saeed Dec 10, 2017 08:01pm
Excellent article but you need to visit Landi Kotal near Torkham to enjoy this cuisine.
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Nadeem Dec 10, 2017 11:49pm
@Ahmed Saeed : Landi Kotal is famous for its Chapli Kababs and Balti.
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Nadeem Dec 10, 2017 11:49pm
@Jay Shah : Its Balti Gosht in KPK vs Karahi
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gtm Dec 11, 2017 01:01am
Irfan Saheb, I am a huge fan of your, but in this case, may I respectfully point out, that the particular cuts of meat, inclusion of bones, cartilage, specific types of fat originating from various parts of the animal, age/sex of animal, method of feeding, slaughter/ type of butchery, freshness/ rigor mortis, cooking techique, vessel, source of fire: so many imponderables, learned Sir! Plus that certain magic residing within the cook's practiced hand, and the land's own magic, that cannot ever be duplicated. But most of all, without the bones and fat, and a mix of cuts, calculated to cook to a desired toothsome tenderness at the same time, how would you expect the karahi to come together with a generic "4 lbs of boneless lamb/goat"? Surely not expected from such a shaukheen gourmet such as your respected self? Pray consider the protocols in KP!!
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LAHORI KID Dec 11, 2017 08:08am
Considering I'm from Gawal Mandi originally, I was raised on what is/was called the food street. And yes there are several recipes for karahi ghost, there is no question its my favorite dish, tikka boti is a close second. I personally make it in a tomato sauce, how my mother taught me, the only thing I do differently is, I put garam masala in it, and lots of it. Now ya'll got me hungry.
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Siddhartha Dec 11, 2017 08:50am
Does any one like vegetarian dishes in Pakistan? I always see recipes with chicken or meat.
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Nasir Askar Dec 11, 2017 11:17am
Looks good in pictures. However, the masalas galore would destroy the taste of the meat.
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Changez Khan Dec 11, 2017 02:28pm
Yummy Yummy !!!
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Nadeem Dec 11, 2017 06:04pm
@Siddhartha : Vegetables are very popular as well. Some of the most exotic Mughal Vegetable cuisines are attributed to Pakistan.
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Nadeem Dec 12, 2017 01:33am
@Jay Shah : Mr.Irfan Hussain's mention of Mr.Abraham Joshua aka Kaka deserves special mention, and I second his opinion. Mr.Joshua's generosity in hosting friends is legendary. He and his family moved to the U.S. in early '80's (fortunately), and I say that, because I am sure that the events leading up to what has become of Pakistan today, would have endangered his and his family's life. Regardless of the treatment meted out to him in Pakistan, he continues to be welcoming to Pakistani's of all castes, colors and creeds. It was one of those occasions where upon my arrival in the U.S. he invited us over for Karrahi Gosht. Its unfortunate that Pakistan lost an entire generation of the devoted Joshua family, whose members ranged from a minister, ambassador, civil servants, teachers and armed forces personnel. Kaka is still improvising on his culinary skills. Kaka will provide the carnivores with savory delights and scotch.
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bkt Dec 12, 2017 10:53am
What kind of karhai is this? The meat must cook in the water of the meat and in the fat of the meat. You don't add butter or any kind oil to Karhai. Any oil is added on top as a seasoning and is not used to cook the meat in. This may be an interesting version of a makani dish, but karhai it is not.
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Ritesh Singh Dec 12, 2017 02:09pm
no onions!
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