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Why I love Pakistani biryani – from an Indian fan

Why I love Pakistani biryani – from an Indian fan

I decided to delve into the origin of Student Biryani to uncover more about how and why it was started
Updated 14 Sep, 2016

When you are a big foodie like me, there are multiple cuisines that can make your mouth water and compel you to want to move away from a daily diet of just desi khaana.

For my husband and I, the cuisine of choice is always a variation of Asian offerings – Chinese, Thai, or the occasional Vietnamese on the days we like to step out for a meal. Constantly on the go since the last few years – from a two-year stint in Germany and now in the capital city of the UAE, Abu Dhabi, we have had the pleasure of indulging in some of the most delectable culinary experiences from around the world.

But it was only when we moved to the Middle East early this year did we get acquainted with the culinary kitchens of our neighbor across the border – Pakistan.

Keeping the political rhetoric and history of the two countries aside, and pulling off the layers of turmoil and turbulence that the two countries have been embroiled in since the time of Partition, what we see below the surface are commonalities that cannot be ignored. The overlapping of culture cannot be ignored between two countries that were literally cut from the same figurative cloth many moons ago. A fitting example of this is their cuisines.

The food of Pakistan is very similar to that of North India, the difference being that Pakistani dishes also incorporate flavors and elements from the Middle East as well as Central Asia. From a blend of Mughlai meats whose origins date back to Medieval India during the reign of the Mughal empire, Mughlai food consisted of a cocktail of Pakistani, Hyderabadi and North Indian spices and cooking styles.

During our constant pursuit for good food in the city of Abu Dhabi that is truly a haven of expatriate culinary experiences from around the world and also offers enough ‘desi’ options to keep us engaged enough to not long for our kitchens back home, we chanced upon the wonders of Student Biryani.

One spoonful of this rice-based delicacy had me hooked. The flavors, the spices, the cooking style that had surely gone into the creation of this magical dish had us entranced. Never had I ever tasted biryani that satisfied and tingled the taste buds the way Student Biryani did and ached for more with every bite.

When you arrive at Student Biryani in Abu Dhabi’s bustling Tourist Club Area, you are greeted by a bright red STUDENT BIRYANI sign over the door and a simple red and white awning underneath it. Nothing fancy, the two-story structure reeks of another era, in another land as if to transport you back not just to the culinary experience but also an ambience to create a befitting atmosphere.

One Haji Mohammed Ali started a small eatery in the middle of Saddar city in Karachi in 1969. The name Café Student was soon changed to Student Biryani and then there was no looking back. The brand blossomed and thrived.

The restaurant with its simple, pleasant interiors, booth tables, hospitable and friendly staff and an impressively large food menu is testimony to their focus on only the one thing that matters here every minute of every day – the food.

A gnawing curiosity as the trigger, I decided to delve into the origin of Student Biryani with the aim to try and uncover more about how and why it was started. And why it was called ‘STUDENT BIRYANI’. There had to be a story there!

I was not wrong. There was a story and it was a compelling one.

One Haji Mohammed Ali started a small eatery in the middle of Saddar city in Karachi in 1969. Catering to students of nearby schools in the area, it was first named ‘Café Students’.

The food was home-cooked, the biryani was made with love, passion and slowly it was hard work and dedication that allowed Ali to expand his business. In 1976 he opened a franchise that could seat a hundred people. The name Café Student was soon changed to Student Biryani and then there was no looking back. The brand blossomed and thrived.

Haji Mohammad Ali is no more but his legacy lives on and continues to fill the eager stomachs of its loyal patrons with its unwaveringly scrumptious culinary offerings even today.

There is no dearth of Indian and Pakistani restaurants in Abu Dhabi today that are always teeming with not just Indians and Pakistanis but also the myriad other expatriate residents that enjoy their curries, haleem and biryanis. Compact or expansive, downtown or suburban, these joints don’t really have a peak time traffic scenario. Any given time of the day they are packed to capacity.

A Pakistani driver who was driving me to work one day had drummed up idle chatter and the conversation steered in the direction of food. “India mein kya pasand karte ho Madamji?” (What do you like eating in India, Madam?)

“Butter chicken, dal makhani aur paneer. Aur haan bhar ki biryani.” (Butter chicken, black lentil and cottage cheese. And yes, home-made biryani).

“Arrey, aapka butter chicken toh kamaal hai. Lekin hamari biryani toh chakhiye. Sabh bhool jayengi.”

(Your butter chicken is delicious but try our biryani. You will forget all else.)

He quickly proceeded to tell me about Kareems restaurant that had a sizeable menu roster of both Indian and Pakistani food but the Pakistani was worth trying out too. Student Biryani had worked its magic and now I was all ears for any such dining out suggestions.

Beef, goat, chicken and mutton are the meats of choice on most Pakistani ‘Dastarkhans’ or large cloths spread out to eat on when the guests are too many or during celebrations. Some also deploy the use of ‘Takhts’ or raised platforms by sitting cross-legged much like the Afghans do. I hope to be able to witness such a gathering one day!

They say the ‘way to a man’s heart is through his stomach’. Our hearts may not always be in the right place when it comes to our two nations but sometimes the way to an Indian man’s heart can be through some Pakistani biryani.

Interestingly both India and Pakistan have many staple dishes in common. Perhaps one of the most common of these is rice. A meat curry or a lentil with rice is not uncommon in both countries. ‘Nihari’ is another kind of meat cooked overnight to achieve the precise tenderness of the meat before consumption and is another Pakistani delicacy that can be found in parts of India too.

Some of my colleagues at work are Pakistani and most lunch breaks will bring the familiar and welcome waft of Pakistani meats indicating that Biryani is on the menu again. Being the only North Indian, I am quickly ushered into the small pantry by this motley bunch of varying nationalities all willing to share their meals.

For an hour everyday this tiny pantry becomes the nucleus of the promise of cross-cultural camaraderie through the wonders of our respective cuisines.

They say the ‘way to a man’s heart is through his stomach’. Our hearts may not always be in the right place when it comes to our two nations but sometimes the way to an Indian man’s heart can be through some Pakistani Biryani. And sometimes a Pakistani heart aches for a good Indian Butter Chicken.

Comments

Fact Sep 12, 2016 05:14pm
as someone who had absolutely no interest in rice/pulao/biryani before eating student biryani 5-6 years ago .. i would like to say .. it takes delicious even if ur not into rice
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sandhu Sep 12, 2016 05:18pm
Pakistan is fabulous country in all aspect just you need to have positive eyes.
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M. Abid Nasim Sep 12, 2016 05:24pm
Once a Biryani lover, always a Biryani lover.
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Khwarezmi Sep 12, 2016 05:28pm
Whithout doubt: Pakistani food is the best. When in Singapore I always try out South-Indian Murtabak sold in Indian-Muslim resturants in Little India. But I have always felt South Asians have some miles to go to reach the variety and quality of sweet-dishes found in Europe.
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shiva Sep 12, 2016 05:40pm
Taste knows no boundary ....
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Amir Jalal Sep 12, 2016 06:04pm
Please try bar b q tonight
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Umreekan_Sundi Sep 12, 2016 06:18pm
Many Pakistanis have never eaten the South Indian food. I fell in love with the Idlis, Sanbhar and all kind of dosas while living away from Pakistan. Its so different and lighter then our traditional Pakistani food. Must try!
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Danish Sep 12, 2016 06:27pm
To be honest they call it a Pakistani Biryani but in fact it is Karachi's Biryani. No where else in Pakistan you can find a good Biryani like this except for Karachi.
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Solah aanne Sep 12, 2016 06:29pm
You cannot name a biryaani in Nation name.
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sumit.nanda Sep 12, 2016 06:29pm
I had Pakistani Chicken biryani in Trade Fair, Delhi.I must say I was disappointed. The worst biryani I ever had.
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Abrar Sep 12, 2016 06:55pm
I have traveled all across south Asia and let me tell you I found the foods of Pakistan and Afghanistan to be the most similar. Indian foods have a unique blend of spices that is hard to replicate in Pakistan whereas Pakistani food is very greasy.
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Isra Sep 12, 2016 07:12pm
The power of Pak Biryani. Nice reading. At home, my family can eat biryani all seven days a week. No matter how much quantity she cooks, it never goes to waste.
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Dilip Sep 12, 2016 07:29pm
I disagree with the columnist (Shaira Mohan). She should have visited Hyderabadi Ritaj Restaurant located at Electra Street in Abu Dhabi. From the rush at the entrance itself at all the times in a day of people wanting to have their turn at the table is so surprising to witness . You will see a lot of nationalities for takeaways. My Pakistani friends always ask me to take them to Hyderabadi Biryani every weekend when we gather for supper. I came to know that it is the birthplace of Biryani from Hyderabad, Deccan.
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Masood Sep 12, 2016 07:32pm
Student Biryani is the BEST, no if and or but. On my two weeks vacation to Karachi, I eat it every day and upon returning home, I crave for it for another two weeks. The fever goes down in about a month.
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DW Sep 12, 2016 07:43pm
@Umreekan_Sundi ; Tried it in Sunnyvale CA. South Indian food sucks. Sorry for being honest!
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bharat Sep 12, 2016 08:03pm
I agree Pakistan food is quite good but its not available here in India.
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J USA Sep 12, 2016 08:14pm
Hyderabad (India) Biryani is mother and father of all biryanis. Nothing compares to it
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Kent J Sep 12, 2016 08:23pm
When visiting India I tried different indian foods. Hydrabadi Biryani was good. A sweet called Kala I and Rabri were best.
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Payal Queshi Sep 12, 2016 08:28pm
Anywhere in the world I travel I don't find any food appetizing then my Indian food. It gives me divine satisfaction with unique taste and delicacy!
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Mandy Sep 12, 2016 08:29pm
Delhi has the best food.
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obivankanobi Sep 12, 2016 08:36pm
@Khwarezmi you are absolutely right about the deserts. Westerners have a far wider selection and more delicately flavoured deserts and they are artistically decorated also. Overall there is much more sophistication and not over powering in sweetness.
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Kolkatans Sep 12, 2016 08:46pm
lol! Pakistan is comparing their cuisine with India.....they forgot that India has 29 States...and every States has different kind of cuisines...from North to South ...fro east to west .... Indian cuisine is the world..if someone wants to explore the Indian cuisines...it will take his/her whole life to explore what's the actual taste of Indian cuisine...
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Kiran Dominic Sep 12, 2016 08:49pm
Karachi Darbar. I love you. I am South Indian
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MMKhan Sep 12, 2016 09:07pm
With all due respect to one's individual taste bud, I find the Dhakaiya biriyani is the best. Whether it's their Kachchi biriyani or Tehari or Murogh pulau cooked with kalijeera rice, Dhaka does it best without the use of unnecessary exessive pile of spices and butter/oils.
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MMKhan Sep 12, 2016 09:10pm
@Khwarezmi: Well, you're saying this without trying any Bangladeshi sweet dishes. Extend your horizon, try some and then talk about Europe.
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Zi Sep 12, 2016 09:15pm
@Danish I think Karachi is in Pakistan , so what's wrong in calling it 'Pakistani biryani'?
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Touseef Sep 12, 2016 09:17pm
@DW dear it's not the food it's the restaurant that sucks as I am in Cali too. To my Indians or Asian food lovers in Houston try Bundu khan near pak embassy. It's simply delicious BAr B Q & Tikka's.
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Tariq Sep 12, 2016 09:17pm
@Danish , Karachi is a part of Pakistan.
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Ajay Ladkani Sep 12, 2016 09:40pm
Pakistani restaurants may be good for non vegetarians but they always disappoint people like me who is a strict vegetarian. You go to any part of UAE, their veg preparations are confined to kaddu, Baingan, gobhi etc. They don't have concept of paneer preparation and are quite unknown of using kaju and khoya gravy in various veg preparations. Even roti sides they have very less varities.
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Syed Abbas Sep 12, 2016 09:47pm
Pakistani food is way above than India in taste.
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Lalith Sep 12, 2016 10:08pm
Dear author, do try Paradise biryani in secunderabad, hyderabad. World's best biryani they say!
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Lalith Sep 12, 2016 10:10pm
@J USA well said bro!
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s kumar Sep 12, 2016 10:24pm
biryani is the most tasty food in the sub-continent and each region will claim its receipe to be the most authentic and best one. Each has its distinct taste . as a foodie i would put hyderabadi biryani on the top. i also had chance to taste pakistani biryani in milano and hongkong and fond it yummy . you can win over anybody with a biryani treat , a onion cucumbur raitha topped with boondhi and a lemon pickle to tickle the tongue.
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Alwin James Sep 12, 2016 10:46pm
Try South Indian foods u'll madly love it for sure..
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Mudassir Sep 12, 2016 10:50pm
You cannot have a taste of Pakistani Biryani in Delhi, UAE, Middle East or Europe. If you want to eat the real Pakistani Biryani, go to Student Biryani in Karachi.
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Sanjeeb Bose Sep 12, 2016 11:03pm
I am a biryani lover, has tasted Pakistani biryani in Manchester UK some 10 years back... it was very good... I also love Mutton Biryani from Kolkata, India...
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Vikramaditya Sep 12, 2016 11:04pm
Two peoples united by cuisine among many other things.
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dabangg Sep 12, 2016 11:11pm
@Touseef Any suggestions for Dallas?
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ANADI KUMAR DUBEY Sep 12, 2016 11:19pm
My mouth is watering
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kash Sep 12, 2016 11:29pm
@Kent J To each his own brother. The kacha gosh in some Hyderabadi style is oft pulao like than biryani who are used to Sindhi traditional style.
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Asif from Dubai Sep 12, 2016 11:43pm
@sumit.nanda You ate it in Delhi, that explains it. Indian biryani can't beat Pakistani biryani. We have better spices, ingredients and meat flavours.
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techscribe Sep 12, 2016 11:52pm
The Pakistani biryani looks a bit like our Hyderabadi biryani. While I haven't tasted it and can't make a comparison my bet will always be on the Biryani made in Hyderabad in India.
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Ibrar Sep 13, 2016 12:05am
@Kolkatans Jealousy gets us nowhere other than eventually dying sick. Read the author again and you should have no difficulty in knowing her intellectual level and ability to make unbiased observations. If she says Pak Biriyani is the best you should accept it rather than lapsing into an instant mode of insecurity and start talking about Indian vs Pakistani food. The author never at any point disapprove any item of Indian food. You need to get treatment for Pak phobia!
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Atticus from India Sep 13, 2016 02:38am
Good to see articles on Pakistani food.. Unfortunately most Indians cannot taste authentic Pakistani dishes. I have had food in almost all SE asian countries except Pakistan/Afghanistan. Hope some restaurants serving Pakistani cuisine can be set up in Delhi.
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Shaukat Sep 13, 2016 02:54am
It is absolutely right once a Biryani lover always a Biryani lover. I can make Biryani somehow NOT the perfect one and I did make few times for my American friends and guests but I have a Delima now,all of them are requesting me for Biryani very so often now,any suggestions,what should I do? HELP
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Changez_Khan Sep 13, 2016 04:44am
Indian Pakistani dishes are just amazingly yummy, you can't say one is better than the other, both have their own delicious taste.
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Akil Akhtar Sep 13, 2016 05:09am
I have eaten indian food overseas and it is not as good as the hype....Pakistani food is much better.
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Khwarezmi Sep 13, 2016 05:20am
@MMKhan You are making assumptions without even knowing people. Yes, I have been to Bangladeshi eatries (in London) and I was not impressed. I will give it to you that those Bengali places were imitating Indian food in some parts of their menu as it has more of a name in England.
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Dudevar007 Sep 13, 2016 05:40am
@J USA "Hyderabad (India) Biryani is mother and father of all biryanis. Nothing compares to it" Writer has not eaten proper biryani yet. Hyderabad(India) is only biryani and rest all just some masala rice. And you don't find that outside hyderabad, even in Hyd, only handful of places.
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AXH Sep 13, 2016 05:50am
I don't believe it is fair to compare Pakistani food with the Indian food. They both might have some similarities but they are different. Those who grew up with Pakistani food like their food and the same applies to the Indian food. The only thing I can say is that if you are trying food from another country, be open minded and don't judge it on the basis of the food that you are used to eating.
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SHabbir Afridi Sep 13, 2016 06:34am
I love the indian daal, and saag makhan. Some of my close friends are Indians, really nice people at heart. Large at heart and kind by nature, friendly, positive and evolved with modern thoughts!
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Jay Sep 13, 2016 07:24am
I am an Indian living in USA who loves Pakistani food. In fact most of the Fridays we eat at a Local Pakistani restaurant for nearly twenty Years. My favorites are Mutton Biriyani, Chicken Tikka and Karai Ghost( Mutton). Pakistani meat dishes are definitely better than Indian, But fish dishes especially Goanese and Malabari will beat any Pakistani fish dish. I hope one day I will be able to visit Lahore and eat I am told the best Pakistani cuisine.
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Mnizam Sep 13, 2016 07:32am
Indeed biryani is one of the savored meals in the desi community throughout the world. Its origins are rumored to have been in a military setting in the 1600's from armies not having elaborate kitchens to cook breads and several other dishes to complete a full meal. The simplest method was to combine several dishes with rice and throw them into a pot and call it a meal. Regardless of its origins I have tasted biryani from the northern most part of South asia to the most southern states. They are all tasteful and delicious and leaves a person wanting more each portion of the subcontinent offering their own rich flavors.
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Iftikar Alam Sep 13, 2016 07:39am
@Fact I thought so too...until I tasted hyderabadi biryani in Hyderabad Deccan, I too thought Kashmiri biryani, lucknowi biryani (both of which r sweet due to ridiculous dry fruits....for heavens sake its biryani, not kheer duffers) and Pakistani biryani in Chicago and Toronto were also biryanis. Also, Iranian biryani is a shame, even though it originated there.
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ananya Sep 13, 2016 07:58am
try aminia's biryani in calcutta. incomparable. its probably a version of lucknowi biryani,
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Babu Sep 13, 2016 07:59am
@obivankanobi try far eastern desserts - Thai, Chinese, Japanese, etc. much healthier and less sweet than western desserts and very artistic, subtle not to mention delicious.
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thinker Sep 13, 2016 08:40am
@MMKhan Agreed. I think he missed out on Bengali sweets. There is a lot of variety.
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Indian Sep 13, 2016 09:16am
I'm sure you can find better biryani in India. Hyderabadi biryani is aweaome and check out Persian darbar in Mumbai.
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Imran Sep 13, 2016 09:29am
loved this biryani. It was our hotspot in saddar after college.
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Tauheed Sep 13, 2016 10:15am
@Kolkatans agreed sir, u got valid point...
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Dipak Singham Sep 13, 2016 10:20am
Once you test Kolkata's Biryani I bet your next post would be related to Kolkata Biriyani. Here in Kolkata lots of well known Biriyani House's Arsalan, Zeshan, Royal, Shiraz, Shabbir, Aliah & many more, most of the biryani houses run by Muslims owner but we all are loves to go & eat their with friends & family. I urge once should post related to Kolkata food.
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Harpreet Sep 13, 2016 11:28am
I tried Pakistani biryani in one of the food festivals here...It was one of the pathetic biryanis I ever tasted...full of oil and boiled chicken they serving...when I told the stall owner about this he wasn't convinced...I travel a lot and get to taste different cuisines... not only biryani was bad I think Pakistanis does't have the patience to take critisism...I am sure my comments will also not appear on this blog... Thank you.
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Australian Agnostic Sep 13, 2016 11:31am
@Solah aanne and @Danish, agree with your point. Based on what my friends from India tell me, Biryani's are named after the city of origin not countries. Having said that nothing beats Hyderabadi Biryani.
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Mahesh Sep 13, 2016 11:38am
This is my first comment on this site. Glad it is about food. I tried pakistani biryani in US and Canada. Its absolutely marvellous. Hopefully one day both nations will be friends and we have this food available in our neighborhood.
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Apoo Sep 13, 2016 11:54am
@Kolkatans agree bro .Indian food has too much diversity
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Ron Sep 13, 2016 12:04pm
I am an Indian, I love food from Karachi Darbar, their chilly chicken and grilled chicken are the best. I like Mutton Chops from Pak Ghazi. I have been forturnate to taste this food in Dubai.
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Som Sep 13, 2016 12:27pm
One must try biriyani in Calcutta and then decide. The exiled Nawab of Oudh Wajed Ali Shah left an indelible mark in the city's culinary landscape. Generation of bawarchi's from the Nawab's times have made Calcutta biriyani unique !
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Gaurav Arya Sep 13, 2016 01:43pm
Come to Lucknow once, all you biryani lovers. The biryani is sheer magic.
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Naqash Sep 13, 2016 01:49pm
The distinct flavor and taste of Biryani is just one shade of the wide spectrum of Pakistani cuisine which has evolved and grown into a very sophisticated process of cooking that involves diffusion of spices and herbs! The distinct flavors of Pakistani food from Karachi and Lahore have migrated to all major global regions in the west and in the East!
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Sharma Sep 13, 2016 02:41pm
Pakistani Biryani is Great without any doubts !!
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faryal wahab Sep 13, 2016 04:13pm
@J USA I would dafinately try Hyderabad's biryani
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Gautham Sep 13, 2016 04:33pm
Let me declare this for the benefit of mankind :-) There is one and only one biryani, now and forever, where one can find eternal happiness in savoring - that is Hyderabadi dum biryani. It makes lesser mortals become gluttons, average men to become dilettantes in cookery and great men to write and teach others how to make it!
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sudhanshu Sep 13, 2016 04:58pm
When we have hyderabad biryani who will go for pakstani biryani ...we hav 29 state each hav their own foods realy we need to taste Pakistani biryani .
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Sonny Afridi Sep 13, 2016 05:10pm
@Harpreet who cares? Millions of your country people disagree with you and love Pakistani food. Stick to your veggie dishes then?
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Amit Sep 13, 2016 05:46pm
@Som I have tasted biryani in both UP and Calcutta. Trust me the one from UP is the real deal. No potatoes to wreck the texture!
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ZAFAR Sep 13, 2016 05:47pm
Biriyani always comes with the word Hyderabadi attached to it. Because it originated and is best prepared in Hyderabad, India.
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Meow Sep 13, 2016 06:34pm
Simple national ka masala
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Joe Joseph Sep 13, 2016 07:18pm
I still think liyari restaurant in deira, dubai serves the best biryani.
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Yumna Sep 13, 2016 07:28pm
Glad you had a good experience
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AMJAD Sep 13, 2016 07:49pm
@Kolkatans you do know that karachi is a city where people from all 29 states of India came during partition. Karachi is little South Asia, not just mini Pakistan.
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Kaly Sep 13, 2016 08:02pm
@Syed Abbas - Thats what you feel being a Pakistani.....you are too bad on veg food, lot of people are veg...see bro...India is a big country with so many taste, leave it ,you even can't imagine....
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Kaly Sep 13, 2016 08:03pm
@ZAFAR - It got originated in Bengal...
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Kaly Sep 13, 2016 08:04pm
@Asif from Dubai - ha...you thing you are better in every respect...come on yaar....give us rest...
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Hyderabadi Biryani Sep 13, 2016 08:06pm
As mentioned in the column, Biryani is the favorite amongst many. As I am employed in Saudi Arabia, I had the chance to taste Student Biryani in Jeddah, Mast Biryani in Al Khobar and at other Pakistani restaurants in Riyadh, also in Deira Dubai at a Pakistani restaurant. Apart from that I had the opportunity to taste Biryani in the cities of Mumbai, New Delhi and Chennai. At all the places the taste was good no doubt. Here I have to mention that I belong to Hyderabad, India, the biryani served in this city is the best and no other biryani comes even closer to Hyderabadi biryani. The writer of this column must take a tour of Hyderabad and have a taste of Hyderabadi biryani at any of the numerous restaurants of Hyderabad and surely will say, this is what Biryani should be.
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Kaly Sep 13, 2016 08:09pm
@Akil Akhtar - For Indian, Indian food is the best....
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Kaly Sep 13, 2016 08:10pm
@Harpreet - You are 100% right, they think they are champions in everything...
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Kaly Sep 13, 2016 08:14pm
@Jay - Fish is best prepared in Kolkata, other are not good at it. I have eaten all over India, and in many places outside India, you can't have rich food everyday. Kolkata is the best place for food....even for daily life....
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roy Sep 13, 2016 08:43pm
@Umreekan_Sundi Bhai Pakistani food is amazingly matchless although many of the varieties of different countries do appeal a lot. I being a traveler prefer Pakistani food always and ever because of its unique taste! It is just as ravishing to senses as a smiling face!
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Rev. Eldrick Lal Sep 13, 2016 09:22pm
No doubt, there is a special flavor and taste in Pakistani meals.
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Karachiwally Sep 13, 2016 10:03pm
In Abu Dhabi try biryani at Masala Restaurant in Khalidya it is much better than Students Biryani.
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Kamal Sep 13, 2016 11:20pm
Good article.
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S Sep 14, 2016 01:11am
Thanks for this piece! I discovered butter chicken as a student in college in the U.S. and went on a bit of a butter chicken craze, making it every few weeks for my suitemates. Everyone loved it. When I eventually moved back home, everyone loved it, too. Without being too on the nose here, I think the heartiest meal is a combination of biryani and butter chicken.
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Tamilselvan Sep 14, 2016 05:24am
Indian food is a bit oily but Pakistani dishes swim in oil. Nothing to beat Persian Biriyani and plain ME foods including falafel etc. Varities in Indisn food cannot be beaten.
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Rosebell Eldrick Sep 14, 2016 05:48am
@Harpreet Actually, you have no flavor for non-veg dishes, that's why you are saying Pakistani Biryani have no flavor.
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Mehmood Sep 14, 2016 07:24am
@Shaukat Add such a large quantity of chilli powder, they will never buy you to make biryani for them again
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Indian Sep 14, 2016 07:29am
Living in Canada had the opportunity to try out Pakistan resturants almost every week. Food is excellent and the briyani is way better then I have tried in India ( Hyderabad etc). Only the downside was weight gain. Pakistani food rock.
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vs Sep 14, 2016 08:08am
From what I read, the author tried biryani at a particular restaurant and it turned out to be a pakistani place and she liked it - thats about it. She isnt claiming that its the best biryani in the world or that particular joint invented the biryani. At least in this case we needn't do a one-up and just have one name for reference in case we stopover at Abu Dhabi. There were some other suggestions too (in the comments eg the Hyderabadi place), so pick and choose and decide where you want to eat if you are ever in Abu Dhabi . .. thats about it. vs
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Imtiaz Faruqui Sep 14, 2016 08:35am
There are many kind of Biryanis, and to enjoy it, first of all you have to be real hungry. Mutton Biryani, Beef Biryani, Chicken Biryani, Fish Biryani, Karachi Biryani, Bombay Biryani, Hyderabad Biryani is second to none, in Kerala they make very good Biryani, Sindhi Biryani is very tasty, there is also vegetable Biryani. On the other hand there is also Polav which has a different taste. Enjoy my friends.
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Sudeep Sep 14, 2016 08:52am
Yup!! the biriyani tastes awesome!! I gorge on Pakistani cuisine regularly great food as always. Being a foodie i totally luv to experiment the different cuisines from different countries. Great people and warm loving food. (political difference apart, they are our brothers after all!!)
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D.K. PAMNANI Sep 14, 2016 10:46am
Perhaps the writer has not visited places in Delhi where she can get better Biryani than Pakistani Biryani. Nothing othewise with Pakistani Biryani but have taste of Biryani in Old Delhi and posh areas of Delhi.
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S.T.Ayaz Sep 14, 2016 01:26pm
I would like to correct here actual location of CAFE STUDENT was in between sadar and Jacob Lines Area , it was beginning of Jacob lines near to Govt: technical High School & Saint Patric School, I was the student of Technical school form 1970 to 1974, every day i was passing in front of cafe student and i never found much customer in side cafe at that time. Good Luck.
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Honest Sep 14, 2016 04:21pm
I am south Indian.. I love Pakistani food... but too oily ... bad for health
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Amit Sep 14, 2016 04:25pm
@Gaurav Arya Thoroughly agree. And not just biryani. Awadhi food is the most sinful delight that a person can taste overall.
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Moona Sep 14, 2016 04:34pm
Wish all Indians were like you.
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Rational Sep 14, 2016 04:56pm
Haji Muhammed was our neighbor in Karachi near Numaesh (lines area) where we lived for few months. Extremely down to earth and a true gentleman. Became close friend with my dad in short period and told his stories how he started from a small Thaila (kart) and all the struggles and then success. We moved from lines area to Gulshan due unstable situation in Lines Area and early 90s operation before World Cup. I remember Haji Ji would still send a family member with packets of biryani every once in a while.
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Poorsaint Sep 14, 2016 06:45pm
@Kolkatans .. Sorry boss,You don't need a lifetime to judge Indian cuisine.I have been to several south Indian restaurants in UK and their dishes are simply crap,so they are out of the equation.North Indian dishes are just like you find them in Lahore and Karachi.There may be some variations(and thats why taste better) but essentially the philosophy is the same...More and more spices/herbs.No where in India can someone cook lamb 'Namkeen' gosht and chappal Kebabs better as Pakistani pashtuns do.Thats a promise.Yes you can say there is a huge variety of food in India but having a large population and a number of states does not automatically qualify Indian cuisine to be the best in the world.
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Nadeem Sep 14, 2016 07:22pm
@dabangg Plano area has a Pakistani restaurant which serves good food. However nothing compared to the vast variety that you can find in Houston. Bundu khan, Savoy, Ali Baba, and Royal are some of the nicest eateries in south west Houston area.
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Nadeem Sep 14, 2016 07:25pm
The real Biryani taste in the UAE can only discovered in Dubai not Abu Dhabi. If you ever visit dubai, please try Lyari Restaurant Biryani. It's located in old dubai or banyas area. There are two or three lyari restaurants but ask for the one near the bus stand.
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Ram Nath Satya Sep 14, 2016 07:35pm
Without any doubt, Pakistani Sindhi biryani is the BEST! People raving Hyderabadi Biryani have no clue about biryani period!
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Rakesh Gupta Sep 14, 2016 07:37pm
India and Pakistan border should be such that it should not require visa to cross on either side. The common man on both sides always say "Shun the negative approach towards each other and enjoy the life", but there are some elements who will loose their importance if this happens. For dacades, we are forced into hardheartedness due to these selfish people.
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DILWALE Sep 14, 2016 07:37pm
Strange, No mention of Baloch Biryani in Dubai yet. Has it closed. I was a big fan of it about 20 years ago. And it was always full of patrons.
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Ram Nath Satya Sep 14, 2016 09:24pm
Biryani originated from Persia, modern day Iran or some historians say Queen Mumtaz Mahal invented it. There is no mention of Hyderabad when it comes to origination of biryani.
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Blister Sep 14, 2016 09:54pm
@Kolkatans this Indian columnist is just talking about one dish- biryani. Dil Bara karo yaar. You are right about Indian state wide foods and some are great.
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Baba Bandook Sep 15, 2016 12:20am
@Kolkatans quantity doesn't guarantee the quality. We have less quantity but better quality food.
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Touseef Sep 15, 2016 12:41am
@dabangg sorry bro I am currently there though so many desi places but non worth mentioning,
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Technocrat Sep 15, 2016 01:05am
@techscribe Hyderabadi biryani is very different from Pakistani Biryani, you have to taste it to appreciate it!
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Guru Sep 15, 2016 01:07am
@ZAFAR Not true, travel around the world and taste the Pakistani Biryani!
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Fifi Sep 15, 2016 02:51am
Sindhi biryani is the best. But uzbek biryani is just beyond awesome!!
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Mrs. Haris Sep 15, 2016 04:19am
Living in Abu Dhabi there's nothing better than Student biryani when it comes to a mouth watering culinary experience. Their well barbecued chicken tikka, malai boti are too good. But none the less their super tasty biryani and chicken haleem are a real treat. Pakistan Zindabad!
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Anonymous Sep 15, 2016 06:54am
@DW If you are a meat eater than south Indian food is definitely not for you. I love south Indian food!
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Himanshu chaudhary Sep 15, 2016 07:07am
For a start if y ever visit Hyderabad Ind try Angaara Kritunga 4 seasons Shah fhouse Bawarchi Paradise bahar cafe... ur mind will spin to declare which is best trust me. Lucknowi mellowed biryani is all a different ball game. U must have tasted delhi punjabi type biryanis
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Himanshu chaudhary Sep 15, 2016 07:11am
@Danish very true north indian Delhi biryani is Lahore inspired hopeless biryani full of red chillis south indian is more of unique combo of spices with slight hint of sourness plus marvelous mix of spices. Nothing overboard though
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BiryaniBoy Sep 15, 2016 08:39am
Biryani is Awesome no doubt!! Indian chicken 65 and chicken tikka masala are really great but Pakistani BBQ is amazing. You should try chicken seekh kabab and chicken Tikka/boti as well as Chapli kabab.
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D.K. PAMNANI Sep 15, 2016 09:32am
Hyderabad Biryani is famous in Pakistan.
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Kau Sep 15, 2016 09:44am
Each to their own.
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Nisheeth Saxena Sep 15, 2016 10:49am
for me taste is not as important as the fact which cooking oil/fat is used in preparing biryani. I avoid preparations made with hydrogenated vegetable oil as cooking medium which is commonly used in most of the eateries. I love home cooked awadhi biryani/pulao made with desi ghee by my muslim friends.
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AKS Sep 15, 2016 11:02am
@Fact you are right. we have people in our office, they eat biryani whole week and say biryani ke liye har din naya din hay
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muhammad anwar Sep 15, 2016 11:06am
its good both neighbours joined at least at biryani tabale
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Maddy Sep 15, 2016 11:50am
“Butter chicken, dal makhani aur paneer. Aur haan bhar ki biryani.” (Butter chicken, black lentil and cottage cheese. And yes, home-made biryani). Correction needed: Aur haan GHAR ki biryani. :) it was nice to read.. We have been brought up in a family who migrated from Gujarat- India and my forefather’s settled here in Karachi- Pakistan since 1947. Our grandfather used to tell stories and his childhood experience he had back there in india. We have a blend of Indo-Pak cuisine made daily at our home, either it is Hyderabad (Indian) biryani or Sindhi (Pakistani) biryani both are rich in texture, tastes delicious & are mouthwatering for us, the smell-the aroma comes out when you move the cover from the skillet that experience can’t be explicated. Both countries just not share the borders only but also they do share their culture, festivals, norms, values, love, affection and the list goes on.
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jk Sep 15, 2016 01:18pm
Aap Pakistan to aaein...dil khol k menman nawazi karein ge...and biryani will just be the appetizer... :)
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Adnan Sep 15, 2016 01:38pm
Indian food has no qulity or taste over Pakistani and then Persian and Middle eastern cuisine
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analyses Sep 15, 2016 01:58pm
Actually, there is nothing called a 'Pakistani Biryani'. The Biryani that you tasted and had a great taste is due to the fact that it is from Karachi. Although Karachi is a part of Pakistan, but you will be thoroughly disappointed if you try biryani made in Lahore, Isb, or any other city apart from Karachi. They just cannot cook Biryani properly and the so called biryani there is so tasteless all over Pakistan. Not just student biryani, Karachi has dozens of places where the biryani taste totally differently, yet all are tasty variants. I'm a biryani lover, Karachi has the best biryanis, followed by Hyderabadi Biryani (also available in Karachi) and Rajisthani Biryani (which I tasted in Dubai).
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Akram Sep 15, 2016 02:36pm
not keen on butter chicken, but there is no substitute for punjabi parathas with a good curry. Chicken biriyani and my favourite Pakistani traditional Roast Chicken.
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Akram Sep 15, 2016 02:39pm
Having dined in many of the posh restaurants in Pakistan, which were nice. The most enjoyably meal I had was at a truck drivers dhaaba! simple curry freshly well made. Funny what you end up liking.
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techscribe Sep 15, 2016 04:00pm
@Shaukat If that's the case you should start a Biryani making business. Good biryani gets top dollar.
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techscribe Sep 15, 2016 04:20pm
@AMJAD I doubt anybody came from Hyderabad as it was under the Nizaam during partition. It was only much later it was annexed by India.
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techscribe Sep 15, 2016 04:24pm
@DW I don't know what you ate at Sunnyvale. South India has an amazing variety of veg and non veg food, starting from coastal Maharashtra, Goa, Coastal Karnataka, North and South Karnataka, cuisines from different parts of Tamil Nadu and Kerala. and of course the spicy Andhra food.
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Nasir Islam Sep 15, 2016 05:14pm
Interesting article. Would have been useful for the far flung readers like me, to give the recipe, ingredients and the cooking process, so that one could try the Student Biryani.
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Rehan Sep 15, 2016 10:12pm
@Kolkatans :: My friend we are not comparing food between India and Pakistan. We do NOT need people like you sharing your negative thoughts. I love Student Biryani as well as Hyderabadi Biryani and when ever I go to Dubai I prefer Haydrabadi one.
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Nadeem, USA Sep 15, 2016 10:42pm
@sandhu, THANK YOU SANDHU FOR YOUR KIND WORDS FOR PAKISTAN
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manoj Sep 15, 2016 10:47pm
My only comment. Limit eating meat and supplement with lots of vegetables. That is, if you want to live longer healthily.
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M A Qadeer Sep 16, 2016 05:58am
Reminds me of my multiple visits to Cafe Student during my Dow Medical College days in 90's. Fresh Biryani with Salad pack was always inviting & uniquely delicious in flavor . Recently tried again during my visit to Karachi and was totally disappointed .
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Synthesis Sep 16, 2016 06:22am
@analyses Your Knowledge about Biryani covers a very short spectrum indeed!
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Joanthan Sep 16, 2016 06:24am
@Kolkatans I have lived in India and Pakistan and tasted their food in cities and villages, in a nutshell, I can say that Pakistani cuisine excels in taste and sophistication!
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Abe Sep 16, 2016 06:32am
@Poorsaint I have traveled all over India on business trips, all Indian dishes taste same to me!
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ss Sep 16, 2016 08:37am
In the business of cooking rice, the Persians remain unsurpassed. The magic they produce in their kitchens is way ahead of whatever other may have to offer.
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asad K Sep 16, 2016 09:01am
Biryani is only in Karachi... i ll never find any thing called biryani in Lahore (Even student biryani Lahore is pathetic ).. RWP-ISL is famous for Kabli Pulao (Savour pulao)
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sumit.nanda Sep 16, 2016 10:13am
@Asif from Dubai ya but it was prepared by Pakistan stall in Pakistan way...however do not want to suggest that pakistan food is not good, it is just it was not prepared well (very blank) ( and he charges a lot)..and about indian biryani hyderabadi biryani and even in delhi we taste a lot of amazing biryani... India is a foody country from veg to non veg we have all the variety..I think no country have that much variety in food. From north indian to south Indian food there are so many delicious dishes.
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Soulspeek Sep 16, 2016 10:32am
@Asif from Dubai "You ate it in Delhi, that explains it. Indian biryani can't beat Pakistani biryani. We have better spices, ingredients and meat flavours." ....and you are saying that without even setting foot in India!!
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Arshad Aleem Sep 16, 2016 03:41pm
Excellent article. One should not fight for who is better however should recommend good food for others. I am from Pakistan and have visited India a number of times. I have found seafood and vegetarian dishes to be very good in Mumbai. The best aspect I found in India in the restaurants is the serving of food by the waiters.. In Pakistan besides Biryani the BBQ is also awesome. I also take this opportunity to inform readers that Hyderabadi Biryani is also popular amongst Hyderabadi community in Karachi/.
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Syed Waqar Ali Sep 16, 2016 04:32pm
As we have national game, national dress, we can call Biryani as national dish. On every occasion, be it a wedding or birthday, the menu is not complete without Biryani.
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Hiiii Sep 16, 2016 06:04pm
What's Up Chandigarh ;-)...
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khan Sep 17, 2016 02:36am
@MMKhan I have tried Bengali Biryani sorry to say. It was worst... In fact it was not a Biryani
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Asghar Sep 17, 2016 06:42am
We in sub-continent have to move away from spicy stuffs, enough of injustice to our stomachs.
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roy Sep 17, 2016 12:24pm
Similar foods are available in Kolkata.
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Nawaz Sep 17, 2016 01:35pm
I hope Student Biryani use chicken in their Biryani in Dubai. Here in Pakistan, the meat they use is neither beef nor chicken.
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Zainab Alam Sep 17, 2016 01:36pm
@sumit.nanda Because you ate it in India. Although, My parents are from India but no one can make a delicious and authentic biryani like a Karachiite including me. Come to "The city of lights" Karachi, We will welcome you with our open hearts!
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Asad Sep 17, 2016 03:07pm
Specially Karachi is rich in all types of food like BBQ, continental but here we some what miss pure indian bhel puri, bhaaji, daal with puri etc. There should be indian restaurants here in Karachi
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Arya Sep 18, 2016 01:18am
Best food from South Asia does not matter in the country but the region. Punjabi food from the Lahore/Amritsar and Doaba region in India is typically milder on spices and oil. This is also the most popular amongst non desis in the West so it is objective. Do not like: Karachi style food (oily, spicy), Gujurati food, some South Indian food is good.
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Akram Sep 18, 2016 01:49am
@Kolkatans here in the UK, Pakistani cuisine dominates indian. Most restaurants are Bangladeshi. Second come the Pakistani ones which cater for the desi crowd and some gora ones. The indian restaurants only cater for their fellow indians. Most English people want to eat meat and so go to Bangladeshi/pakistani ones. If you open your eyes you may be in danger of learning something!
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takloo Sep 18, 2016 11:33am
@DW Try India Street Cafe in Sunnyvale.
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Ashis Mukherji Sep 18, 2016 11:33am
Although I am partial towards Hyderabadi biryani, it seems, after reading your article, Students Biryani is a must try. Hope to do so very soon. Thanks for the yummy article.
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Hazrat Noorzad Sep 18, 2016 09:33pm
I like to know the recipee of Pakistani Biryani
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Mekal Faruki Sep 19, 2016 10:55am
Student Biryani is awesome eating. Along with Haleem and Nihari, Pakistan has delicious food.
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almas mohommad Sep 19, 2016 12:27pm
i shall try next when iam in abu dhabi a pathan was asked where is abu dhabi - he replied when amma dhabi , near is abu dhabbi cheer up all and try all dishes
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