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This Karachi eatery uses liquid nitrogen to create the perfect scoop of ice cream

This Karachi eatery uses liquid nitrogen to create the perfect scoop of ice cream

Budding restaurateurs Saiem Nasir and Saad Nasir are putting science in a scoop with their latest venture 'Scream'
Updated 19 Feb, 2016

A cold chill is blanketing a corner of Sehar commercial and what it's fueled by, you'll never guess.

Newly opened ice cream parlour Scream may resemble a chemistry lab with the big nitrogen tanks next to the counter but that's because the parlour uses the liquid gas to flash freeze their product. Children stare in awe, crowding around the counter as the LN2 is poured into a stainless-steel bowl, creating a mist of cool air.

Oh, who am I kidding? Adults were just as gobsmacked.

With nitrogen tanks placed right next to the counter, Scream resembles a chemistry lab you wouldn't mind being in
With nitrogen tanks placed right next to the counter, Scream resembles a chemistry lab you wouldn't mind being in

Owned and operated by budding restaurateurs, Saad Nasir and Saiem Nasir (the duo behind Hoagies), Scream opened its doors to the public less than a week ago and has already generated ample buzz.


What inspired the two brothers to bring this fascinating way of making a timeless frozen treat to Pakistan?


"Honestly? Saad and I just thought that bringing liquid nitrogen ice cream here would just be fun to do. We didn't think much into it — we never do. We thought It would add a little bit of theatre to the experience and it'd be cool to witness your scoop of ice cream being made right in front of you live and fresh," shares Saiem.

The lighting at the counter has been installed to make it look like a stage, to give the place that grunge vibe
The lighting at the counter has been installed to make it look like a stage, to give the place that grunge vibe

"It took us a little over 3 years to figure everything out, from recruiting all the equipment to getting all the training required. The set-up for all this was ridiculously expensive; just the decor alone took us 6 months to finalize!"

But these guys weren't going to let their dreams melt away.

Sayem Ghayur is the brains behind the brilliant design; The owners wanted the place to have a theme that merged music and science.
Sayem Ghayur is the brains behind the brilliant design; The owners wanted the place to have a theme that merged music and science.

"We were stubborn. We persevered because all our business revelations have come through personal struggle, the struggle of not finding another alternative. So we brought Aamir Ahmed on board as a partner who's this great engineer extraordinaire, to help us figure it out and 3 brains did what 2 would have eventually done a lot faster and that's how we came up with Scream."

A scoop of science?

This method of making ice cream has become increasingly popular in the last few years; the accelerated process results in less ice crystals being formed than when traditional methods are use. That means that the end product is ultra-creamy ice cream.

Highly recommended is the strawberry cheesecake ice cream and choco nutella with oreos
Highly recommended is the strawberry cheesecake ice cream and choco nutella with oreos

What makes the nitrogen basically essential to Scream is the ability it gives the joint to make ice cream fresh to order: you walk up to the counter and ask for a medium blueberry cheesecake flavour with tapioca or latte with M&Ms and it's the liquid nitrogen which freezes all the ingredients together in less than a minute.

"It takes about 45 seconds from adding the fresh flavours, to mixing, to blasting and then scooping into the cup. The ice cream it self takes 15 seconds to mix. Everything is fresh and made in front of you!"

Even though it's quick, it still sounds labour-intensive, right? Why bother when you could probably scoop out 3 cups of ice cream in the time you'll take making one this way?

Saiem feels the proof is reflected in the taste: "The beauty about liquid nitrogen ice cream is its unbelievably smooth texture."


"We add our fresh ice cream batter, add flavour and then blast with LN2 which freezes around -196 degrees celsius."


He elaborates, "This rapid freezing ensures that the ice cream doesn't have water crystals and very minimal air whipped into the mix (ice cream everywhere here, has a lot of air whipped in) so our product won't ever give you that dreadful icy crunch! It's velvety and delicious, as ice cream should be."

Oh and if that isn't interesting enough, they've also brought back the Boba. Remember that kiosk outside the grocery store, Agha's that served this specialty Taiwanese tea-based bubble drink? Yep, that's the one!

Can you tell that I really, really like anything strawberry?
Can you tell that I really, really like anything strawberry?

What to eat?

Scream officially launched on February 14. It was poetic in a way; I mean, it was almost like giving all the single people in the city this sanctuary, where they could come to drown their sorrows in ice cream.

The snazzy decor includes this giant mural by Samya Arif that hangs above the counter
The snazzy decor includes this giant mural by Samya Arif that hangs above the counter

I discovered its existence on Karachi Food Diary and the foodie in me couldn't resist but go check it out the very day it opened.

While their claim to fame is their ice cream, their menu also offers a wide range of comfort food like chicken with waffles (!!!), wings, fries, among other things. One can go unwind over a cup of coffee, pig out on ice cream or munch on one of the savoury items.

Also read: Food wars: Are online food forums a force for good or ripe for misuse?

I've got my eye on the honey soy wings —Photo courtesy: Karachi Food Diary
I've got my eye on the honey soy wings —Photo courtesy: Karachi Food Diary

I ordered a medium Strawberry Cheesecake ice cream first and curly fries for later. Why I chose to have dessert first just goes to show how excited I was and I'm not even particularly a big fan of ice cream.

As soon as I took my first bite, I understood was Saiem had been talking about. It was like froyo and gelato had given birth to this baby and named it liquid nitrogen ice cream. It had the richness of gelato but it was extremely creamy and smooth, like froyo but better.

My friend, who had gotten Choco Nutella with Oreos quipped, "This is the best ice cream I've ever had."

The fries were really good, fried to crisp perfection, I think they were the same ones you get at their sub shop, Hoagies.

Why exercise when you can have curly fries?
Why exercise when you can have curly fries?

I ended the visit with a strawberry bubble tea with popping boba to go; super refreshing and unlike anything else you get in the city.

All in all, damage on the pocket? 2 medium ice creams (one with an extra topping), one curly fries and one bubble tea cost me Rs. 880. Everything on the menu is reasonably priced, the most expensive thing being Rs. 450 (the mozzarella sticks).

Safe to say, I'm heading back there again tonight because I didn't get a chance to try their wings the first time around, which Saiem deems a must try.


Scream is located at Shop # 3, 18-D, Seher Commercial, Lane 4, Phase VII, D.H.A. (Right next to Big Thick Burgerz)

Comments

E.K Feb 19, 2016 01:44pm
Wow! will try the LN2 ice-cream for sure
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Hayat Feb 19, 2016 02:09pm
Looks & sounds delicious. But I hope they're careful. I heard liquid nitrogen can freeze ones' hand off.
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Arshad Feb 19, 2016 02:28pm
A woman in UK got his stomach removed after consuming drink with liquid nitrogen, see link below. http://www.theguardian.com/uk-news/2015/sep/17/oscars-wine-bar-lancaster-gaby-scanlon-stomach-liquid-nitrogen
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nadeem Feb 19, 2016 02:40pm
Nitrogen has following harmful effects on human health. So this type of icecream is not good for health. - Reactions with haemoglobin in blood, causing the oxygen carrying capacity of the blood to decrease (nitrite) - Decreased functioning of the thyroid gland (nitrate) - Vitamin A shortages (nitrate) - Fashioning of nitro amines, which are known as one of the most common causes of cancer (nitrates and nitrites)
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nadeem Feb 19, 2016 02:41pm
Nitrogen Ice cream is not good for health -Reactions with haemoglobin in blood, causing the oxygen carrying capacity of the blood to decrease (nitrite) - Decreased functioning of the thyroid gland (nitrate) - Vitamin A shortages (nitrate) - Fashioning of nitro amines, which are known as one of the most common causes of cancer (nitrates and nitrites)
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Akbar Feb 19, 2016 02:44pm
Where it is situated?
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Mariam Feb 19, 2016 03:35pm
Where it is located in Karachi?
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sameer Feb 19, 2016 03:58pm
if you have money then how much Beautiful life can be !!
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Alea Rizvi Feb 19, 2016 04:55pm
Super proud of you guys!!! Can't wait to taste the delights on my next trip to karachi!!! Here's to many more successful ventures!
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Nawaz,Zubair Feb 19, 2016 05:19pm
Can any doctor comment on this method?
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Zia Feb 19, 2016 05:38pm
There is a other side of liquid nitrogen. Science writer and fellow at the Royal Society of Chemistry John Emsley says if more than a "trivial" amount of liquid nitrogen is swallowed, the result can be horrendous. http://www.bbc.com/news/magazine-19870668 http://healthland.time.com/2012/10/10/why-liquid-nitrogen-is-dangerous/
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ajay gupta Feb 19, 2016 06:45pm
can pakistan not innovate in other field apart from food and textiles? with increasing awareness about food and lifestyle choices, am still surprised how people go for calorie laden(this one) oily greasy food all the time,
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K Nia Feb 19, 2016 06:55pm
Its easy to use such gimmicks but one has to see the health and safety aspects of large cylinders places in a confined public space. Many unscrupulous entrepreneurs may just want to do "something" different to make money but don't realize the health hazards. With so little regulations in place in the food industry in use of different preservatives, chemicals, colourings and other ingredients and now liquid nitrogen to make ice cream is yet another hazards for the consumers - but then I goes who cares in Pakistan!
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K Nia Feb 19, 2016 06:57pm
@Nawaz,Zubair yes please see the comments above - its a public safety hazard as well as not good for health. You can also see the links some people have posted.
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K Nia Feb 19, 2016 06:59pm
Please also note the occupational hazards of using liquid nitrogen Using liquid nitrogen could cause serious injury by severe freeze-burns, especially if it splashes in your eyes or you get a lot on your skin... Make sure you keep it in a container designed for the purpose; wear goggles, waterproof gloves and a waterproof apron. If you are using it regularly then invest in specialised "cryo" gloves and apron."
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Ali Naqvi Feb 19, 2016 07:30pm
is it safe to use these gas cylinder in a public place ? at what pressure it operates ? what is the effect of nitrogen spray on food ?
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iffi21@gmail.com Feb 19, 2016 07:58pm
MICHELIN STAR Restaurants use Nitrogen, so I don't believe, if used in moderation would have any health impact. Although, I don't understand the idea of using L.Nitrogen for ice cream. Ice cream is already frozen. LN2 is used to freeze stuff, not freeze already frozen stuff. I have seen restaurants use it freeze butter, or even cupcakes etc. It creates a very interesting texture and a fun experience.
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Hassan Feb 19, 2016 08:42pm
@iffi21@gmail.com : The freeze the milk mixture to turn into ice cream.
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K Niaz Feb 19, 2016 08:52pm
@iffi21@gmail.com Nitrogen used in Michelin Star restaurant is limited and under strict observance of safety measures of not exposing workers/people to Nitrogen that may result in emergencies. Its done in kitchens. This is being done in a public place and they are actually using liquid nitrogen to make ice cream. Why not improve the quality of ingredients to improve the taste and texture rather than such gimmicks.
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Abdul Ghafoor Feb 19, 2016 08:58pm
LN2 is also used in aquafina mineral water and i think its limited amount is not harmful for health and Pepsico. recommended it after high research . LN2 cylinder are like bomb so one thing is most important to release the pressure after recommended time and use safety valves.
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Soulspeek Feb 20, 2016 02:05am
I had this ice cream in a mall in Delhi almost 4 years back. Its quite common here and has lost the novelty factor.
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ak4pk Feb 20, 2016 03:02am
Hope the lads have thoroughly assessed the dangers of messing about with this risky substance. Has the project been cleared with Food and Hygine people. What if one of the operatives sustain serious injury or a customer accidentally swallows some liquid nitrogen and succumbs? Too volatile an enterprise!
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Larkanavi Feb 20, 2016 06:41am
Yes, it must be yummy. But how much does a scoop of ice cream cost? I remember going to an ice cream parlour in DHA Karachi and could not believe that a single scoop of ice cream cost several hundreds rupees. I remember paying much less, in equivalent Pakistani rupees, for a scoop of much better quality ice cream in most cities in America and Canada. It is pure rip off in Karachi. I would really appreciate if an ice cream parlour in Karachi or other big Pakistani city sells good quality ice cream at an affordable price - price that an average income earner can pay. Until then I am not going to jump onto the bandwagon of so called food connoisseurs who have nothing but praise for the quality but ignore the affordability part of the equation.
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Farooq Feb 20, 2016 08:00am
@nadeem This is liquified air. The air we breathe in consists of 75% nitrogen gas.
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The_Dawn_Brigade Feb 20, 2016 10:59am
@ajay gupta can you not do anything else other than complain? The country is trying to move forward and people have to start from somewhere!
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Mahmood Feb 20, 2016 01:45pm
I'm sure the reason this novel concept is not known even in the U.S. is because the use of LN2 has underlying health-related issues, which would require FDA approval, And that is a tough nut to crack if you want to comply with food regulations and guidelines. I would urge people here to be very careful what you subject your body to,in the absence of oversight and licensing authorities for such 'unique' eateries. I personally would stay away from it.
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Hassan Feb 20, 2016 02:16pm
@Mahmood : I saw a ice parlour in USA many years ago using Nitrogen. There are plenty in other countries as well.
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khan Feb 20, 2016 04:17pm
First it was dry ice , now liquid nitrogen in icecreams. That is one of dangerous methods used to make ice-cream, If small quantity remains of liquid nitrogen or dry ice that can harm the consumer. So I will better stay with the home made method of making ice-cream, which takes lot of time , but safe and healthy at same time.
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M. Malik Feb 20, 2016 04:25pm
Unless there are no 'normal ice creams' available in your city. why would you take a chance with this? If you even get to see the kitchens and food prep-areas, of some these 'top-rated' popular fancy western-styled restaurants in Pakistan, you would only eat at home,
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Hassan Feb 20, 2016 04:39pm
@Mahmood : There have been many ice cream parlours in USA who use nitrogen to make ice cream.
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M. Malik Feb 20, 2016 05:00pm
@Hassan Please don't mislead or confuse the readers> I've lived in the U.S and Europe for long period of time, and have extensively traveled to many countries. One thing I am very familiar with is 'disclosure' laws in the west, particularly those related to food-labeling, ingredients, and health-related consumer awareness requirements. If what you say was true, then all such Ice Cream parlours in the U.S. would have prominently displayed such disclosures of LN2 usage to prepare the ice cream - as would be required by their city and county health dept. FDA and Dept of Consumer Affairs. I've seen no such shops, with such a notice on display from California to NY.
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Farid Midhet Feb 20, 2016 06:14pm
Went there on Saturday at 12:00 noon. Closed. Sign said its open 12pm-12am. Went there again at 3:30pm. Shutters half up. Chairs upsid down on tables, dark, no one inside. Why open a restaurant when you cannot keep it open as announced?
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Farid Midhet Feb 21, 2016 12:13am
@khan First, nitrogen is not inside ice cream but used only to freeze it, it also cannot remain in ice cream as it would evaporate completely. Second, we breathe air containing 72% nitrogen.
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Hassan Feb 21, 2016 02:48pm
@M. Malik : Type Liquid nitrogen ice cream in you tube. You will find ice cream parlours from all over the world making this type of ice cream.
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Pacman Feb 23, 2016 12:35am
@nadeem The cancer theory that you have presented in your comment is absolutely baseless. Air is 79% Nitrogen by volume. If you were to get cancer by inhaling nitrogen, all of us would've been affected. However care must be taken while preparing food items with liquid nitrogen, such as to provide the liquid nitrogen ample space to expand so that it does not displace the oxygen in the environment needed for breathing (the medical term for it is asphyxiation) and to have sufficient safety training before anyone handles the equipment. Other than that it is perfectly fine to consume foods treated with liquid nitrogen. Please do your research before you post comments which are far from the factual reality. For reference, I'm adding the following article: http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/magazine-19870668
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Desi Feb 23, 2016 12:08pm
Looks cool but what's up with this British flag print on seats?
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