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My quest for the best halwa puri in Lahore

My quest for the best halwa puri in Lahore

Discovering 'poora' halwa was only one of the highlights of my journey
Updated 15 Oct, 2015

If there's one thing Lahore offers in abundance, it's food.

That's not to say that the city has nothing else to offer; it's just that traditional fare happens to be one of its chief attractions.

So when it comes to breakfast — a high priority for us Lahoris — it's not surprising that a sweet and savoury serving of halwa puri is a greatly loved meal.

Halwa puri is said to have originated in the Indian subcontinent, mainly in Punjab, but is also said to be popular in the Terai region of Nepal, particularly in its Madheshi community.

The dish traditionally comprises thin, deep-fried, puffed up bread (puris), served with halwa (a dessert prepared typically with semolina, ghee, sugar and sometimes garnished with nuts), and a mildly spicy curry of chickpeas and potato.

A variation is two separate curries instead of one: chickpeas and aaloo ki bhujia. A few old-school cooks serve halwa puri with mango pickle and sliced onion. And if had for breakfast, this meal isn’t complete without a glass full of sweetened lassi (yoghurt-milk drink).

Not the healthiest choice to start your day with some may say, but it’s halwa puri, and you’re allowed to cheat once in a while.

So, after having enjoyed halwa puri for as long as I can remember, I headed out in search of some of the best the town has to offer. And that’s one difficult task, for there are way too many shops around with their distinct add-ons and variations. I decided to take the challenge head on, with some thorough research. I made a list, called up a friend and out we went on a motorbike on an early morning food adventure.

Taj Mahal Sweets

Taj Mahal Sweets' owner says all recipes used at the shop are his own
Taj Mahal Sweets' owner says all recipes used at the shop are his own

Price: Rs 20

Breakfast timings: 3:30am to 1:30pm

After hours menu: Sweets, ras malai and samosas

Our first stop was Taj Mahal Sweets — and boy, was it a good start!

Located in the narrow streets of Taxali Gate and opposite the Badshahi Mosque, the shop's bustling environs made clear that it benefits from its prominent location. Where there's bustle, there's trouble — and a signpost warned us to watch out for our belongings. So we sat down at a spot where we could keep an eye on our vehicle.

When we finally got down to ordering breakfast, we discovered that Taj Mahal Sweets offered two types of halwas — the regular sooji and a ‘poora’ halwa. The latter definitely piqued my curiosity, and I learned that it was the owner's invention and the shop's bestselling item. I knew I had to try it.

The anticipation was worth it, for we were served a hearty meal. I dug in immediately, breaking off a piece of the piping hot, puffed-up puri and scooped up some poora halwa for a first bite.

This yellow-brown halwa is made with congealed/thickened milk (khoya) and sprinkled with assorted nuts. It melted in my mouth, and thankfully did not leave an overpowering aftertaste. It has to be the most scrumptious halwa I have ever had with puri.

The halwa puri meal at Taj Mahal Sweets
The halwa puri meal at Taj Mahal Sweets

What made the meal even better were the delicious chanay. Instead of the typical brown salan, the chickpeas floated in a yellow curry, served with freshly sliced onion. It was spiced up with a liberal dose of red chilli flakes, which hit your tastebuds immediately. These chanay were also better than any other I've had in Lahore so far. Light, appropriately spicy, soft and, with those onion slices, they made for quite a treat, the kind that makes you want more.

When we finally parted with our breakfast plates, we were lucky to discover that the man on the counter was the owner himself. And the elderly Chaudhry Muhammad Akram had some interesting tales to share.

“I opened up this shop 50 years ago. I entered the field at the age of 10 at the now-shut-down McLeod Road Sweet Corner, which was owned by my relatives. I would get up at 2:30am to practise and learn. After spending six to seven years there, I moved on to a couple of other shops, and then started cooking somewhere," he told us about his early days.

"I went through really tough times," he recalls. "I prayed to God that I’ll work as hard as required, but to get me out of this poverty. When children my age were playing around, I spent my life at shrines. I set up this shop at the age of 17. It’s been 50 years now.”

The interior of Taj Mahal sweets is dotted with pictures of shrines
The interior of Taj Mahal sweets is dotted with pictures of shrines

The interior of Taj Mahal Sweets is dotted with pictures of shrines as a nod to Akram's childhood. He says he still visits shrines and sends 20kg of that scrumptious poora to Data Darbar every Thursday.

“When I started out, I was called mad, as this place was uninhabited. Business wasn't this good in the start. For the first two years, I event slept at the shop. I cooked and sold everything myself. A few years ago, my friend told me to give it all up because of my health. But I said if God’s giving me so much, why should I stop? The day God doesn’t help, I’ll wrap up."

"I’m the first person in the family to come into this field, and I doubt my children could take over after me. It’s a tough job and requires waking up early. They can’t do any of this,” he went on.

Akram said all the recipes were his own creations and he uses special ingredients, some of which he brought over from India. In addition to halwa puri (costing a mere Rs 20) , he also serves chicken and qeema tikkis (cutlets) for breakfast.

The owner, Chaudhry Muhammad Akram
The owner, Chaudhry Muhammad Akram

One of his customers, Hafiz Ali, was engrossed in his breakfast when I mustered the courage to disturb him. “This is by far the best halwa puri I have come across in Lahore. I don’t care how far I live, but I make it a point to come here at least once a week, mostly on a weekend. It’s totally worth it,” he said.

Akram named his shop Taj Mahal Sweets due to his childhood desire to visit the monument. 35 years ago, his wish came true and he saw the Taj standing in its grandeur on a full-moon night. “Aisay jaisay aik plate mein anda rakha ho, aur saath darya beh raha tha,” Akram said.

He also said he visited quite a few cities in India, but did not find halwa puri that could match his. Asked if he was aware of the origins of halwa puri, he said he just knew it was introduced by Hindus a long time before Partition.

On that note, we thanked Akram for his time at peak work hours and took our leave, sated by that poora.

Chand Shahab Sweets

Price: Rs 30

Breakfast timings: 7am to 12pm

After hours menu: Sweets

Our next stop was another decades-old shop, Chand Shahab Sweets, popularly known as Shaabu. It was just a lane away from Taj Mahal Sweets, in the street popular for Peshawari chappals.

We got there a little early, as they were just starting to set up. Their halwa puri — sold for Rs30 a puri — wasn’t the most appetising. The chanay looked, well, boring — but I noticed they serve it with mango achaar (pickle), which is not a condiment that usually accompanies halwa puri. The achaar and sliced onions were the bland chanay's only saving grace, but the halwa wasn’t too bad.

The halwa puri at Shaabu wasn't the best
The halwa puri at Shaabu wasn't the best

The shop's owner, we learned, has an erratic schedule, so we talked to one of his oldest employees, Allah Ditta, who has been working at the shop for 25 years.

Allah Dita told us that Chand was the man who started this shop before Partition and Shahab was his son. The family also owned the Zakariya Hospital.

He said that during the week, the shop is frequented by residents of the Walled City, but customers from all over town pour in on the weekends.

We took his word for it and moved on.

Karachi Sweet Shop

Price: Rs 20

Breakfast timings: 12am to 2pm

After hours menu: Tikkis (cutlets), poora (different from what Taj Mahal Sweets served, this is a sweet round cake), jalebi, sweet pakoras and shukur-paray

Our third stop was Karachi Sweet Shop in Old Anarkali. Due to the lack of a signboard, this place is hard to find. It is located right at the mouth of the food street, if one is coming from the direction of The Mall.

Their halwa puri serving was pretty much standard, with a hot and fluffy puri and an appropriately sweet halwa. However, the chanay stood out for their high spice level (it does not go down easy!) and its different presentation. The cholay were cooked separately from the potatoes. They first poured the chanay onto a plate followed by a spoonful of potatoes over them.

Overall, the experience was satisfactory for Rs20, but after Taj Mahal Sweets, nothing seemed to come close.

Karachi Sweet Shop offers an assortment of sweets and savouries
Karachi Sweet Shop offers an assortment of sweets and savouries

We spoke to the shop's in-charge Rana Asif, whose father the late Rana Abdul Hameed, was a wrestler who opened the shop when there were only four halwa puri joints in the city. Asif joined the shop 12 years after a stint as an AC mechanic in Dubai.

“My father would tell us that he would walk around here and say one day he’d have a shop here. After a few years, with God’s grace, he had one. He earned a lot of respect and success,” Asif told us.

Like Akram at Taj Mahal Sweets, Asif was also unaware of the origins of halwa puri, but reiterated the notion that it was introduced by Hindus in the pre-Partition era.

Butt Sweets

Price: Rs 15

Next on my list was the very popular Butt Sweets. Following a rainy night, we headed over to its branch on McLeod Road, Lakshmi Chowk in the wee hours of the morning.

This was Butt Sweets' first branch, which spreads over both corners of a narrow lane. On one side was their sweets, confectioneries and bakery shop, and on the other was the fried foods set-up, selling an assortment of traditional snacks. Those going for breakfast were seated on one side of this narrow lane, and were often showered by rainwater when bikes and cars zoomed past.

They served the cheapest halwa puri at Rs15 per puri. Their potato-chana curry serving was generous, and definitely deserves to be recommended as one of the better ones in town. The curry was not spicy; its taste was slightly different from those I had earlier tried. We also ordered a poora, which was oily but delicious.

The halwa puri at Butt Sweets was a good meal on the whole
The halwa puri at Butt Sweets was a good meal on the whole

The freshly fried puri had a distinctive aroma and was not chewy or elastic-y as those that I had from a few other places. The halwa smelled and tasted as I expected it would; the sweetness wasn’t overpowering, its texture soft and not artificially coloured. The visit was definitely worth it and I would go back there.

Butt Sweets' freshly fried puris had a distinctive aroma
Butt Sweets' freshly fried puris had a distinctive aroma

My friend and I then went over to pay the bill and have a little chat with the oldest person we could find, assuming he’d have the most information. Without disclosing his name, the man said the owners set up this shop in 1947 when it used to be just a tiny space.

He refused to give us any more information, insisting we speak to the owners. I left them my visiting card, but never received a call.

However, according to their Facebook page, Ghulam Qadir Butt, along with his sons Abdul Hameed Butt and Haji Nazir Ahmed Butt, laid the foundation of a sweet and samosa shop, a “custom that is as old as Pakistan itself”.

One of the customers, Nadir, who shared a table with us, claimed he had been coming to Butt Sweets for halwa puri for 35 years. “It’s different because of its taste and quality. Both have been consistent since I have been visiting. I have tried halwa puri from almost everywhere in Lahore, but this is where I always come back to even though I don’t live nearby.”

Sadiq Halwa Puri

Price: Rs25

Breakfast timings: Fajr to 2:30pm (no post-breakfast meal served)

Other items on the menu: Chicken and mutton cutlets

Next, I decided to visit Sadiq Halwa Puri, another shop I had heard a lot about from connoisseurs of traditional food. I visited the branch on Railway Road; their second branch is on main Ichhra road near Shama cinema.

Upon entering, we were greeted by a sign warning us of pickpockets. But our meal soon put us at ease.

Along with the usual halwa, puri and a generous serving of chanay, a poora was also part of the meal, unlike at other shops where you order it separately. As soon as I popped the puffed poori, I noticed how soft and slightly flaky it was, meaning it was supposed to be had immediately or it would crumble. The curry looked different, and got me curious.

This halwa puri is a treat!
This halwa puri is a treat!

As I took the first bite, I was transported to another world. It was hands down the most mouth-watering curry I have ever had. It surpassed Taj Mahal Sweets, which was my favourite so far in the hunt.

Now, while it looked almost the same as the other cholay did, its taste was distinct. Only after a few more bites did I realise what made it different: they cooked the potatoes with fenugreek (methi) and added it to the chickpeas curry. I couldn’t stop myself from gorging on the halwa puri and in this entire adventure had a second puri for the first time. Even their halwa tasted different and better than the rest, and then there was that oily, lip-smacking poora to finish off the meal.

While eating, I noticed a board that said that the shop had been around since 1880. My friend and I were shocked.

After we polished off our plates, we headed to the elderly man taking orders. He was the grandson of the man who had started this shop.

“My grandfather, Chiragh Din, started selling halwa puri in Amritsar in 1880 under this very name and migrated to Pakistan in 1948. He started a small shop nearby and later moved to our current location," Muhammad Jameel told us.

"This shop is named after my father, Muhammad Sadiq (whose framed black-and-white picture was hanging inside the shop). The fourth generation of our family is running the shop as my son has now started looking after it too,” he continued.

“Our shop spread over eight kanals at Chitti Haweli in Amritsar and my grandfather employed around 200 workers at that time. We were a big deal there,” he said, adding that his grandfather was the first Muslim in the subcontinent to enter the halwa puri business in Amritsar.

Jameel also divulged their secret ingredient: desi ghee!

As we conversed with Jameel, customers started lining up outside. One of them, Muhammad Sabir, said he had come from Dharampura and had just one thing to say about this place: “It’s the best and most popular shop in the city.”

Their busiest season is the summer, I learned, because that is when "women don’t feel like cooking so they ask their husbands or children to fetch breakfast from us!”

The verdict

This brought to an end my fulfilling journey to find the best halwa puri in Lahore — and what an experience it was! While Sadiq serves the best halwa puri, Taj Mahal Sweets is a very close second for its exceptional halwa. Next on my ranking would be Butt Sweets, then the Karachi Sweet Shop and Shabbu at the end.

At the end, I realised how much more enjoyable this adventure will be on cool winter mornings. I'm imagining the piping hot puris and flavour-packed chanas beckoning another journey... I can hardly wait!

Comments

kashmiri pandits Oct 15, 2015 01:09pm
A MEAT & ANIMALS EATER COUNTRY & THEIR PEOPLE ARE SELLING HALWA PURI , WHAT A SURPRISE .
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sam Oct 15, 2015 01:25pm
Taj standing in its grandeur on a full-moon night. “Aisay jaisay aik plate mein anda rakha ho, aur saath darya beh raha tha,” nice article but above line just stole the show
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Muhammad Majid Oct 15, 2015 01:29pm
Best Halwa puri in Karachi Fresco sweets Burns Road and Nasir sweets.
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saif Oct 15, 2015 01:29pm
@kashmiri pandits I always get surprised by my indian friends, how less they know about vegetables and daals. Some of them eat toor daal and only toor daal. Some eat kidney beans and then they eat only kidney beans. They don't know about other daals. We in Pakistan eat all sorts of vegetables and daals in their full diversity.
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pakitruth Oct 15, 2015 01:31pm
halwa and puri are Indian name like have manipulated the roads and history and made our children believe everything over here is from our faith woudent be nice if we name it as instead of halwa paklwa and puri as pakli.
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Indian Oct 15, 2015 01:34pm
The combination of halwa-puri-choley is also the main prasad for the final days puja of Navratri, where young girls are worshipped and offered this meal... and coincidentally, it is Navratri going on right now.. :) :) :)
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True Oct 15, 2015 01:40pm
Sadiq puri is indeed the best I had in Lahore. In Karachi, I love Dilpasand's halwa puri. Its amazing but not beats Sadiq's
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mustafa Oct 15, 2015 01:47pm
@kashmiri pandits "people in other parts of the world do not eat meat? stop being hypocrite"
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baig Oct 15, 2015 01:51pm
There's no mention of Aiwan-e-Nemat sweets opposite to Data Darbar which is ranked 2nd after Taj Mehal Sweets of Taxali Gate.
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Shalone Oct 15, 2015 01:52pm
We are flying to Lahore from Europe next week and would love to try one of these places.Are there any nice places in better part of lahore like Defence or Gilbert. Gymkhana club used to offer this on sundays. do they still do it?
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Raj Oct 15, 2015 01:56pm
Amazing ! Pakistan do not look very different from India.
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Adnan Nagi Oct 15, 2015 01:56pm
@kashmiri pandits Yes, we enjoy halwa puri in morning and prefer fish, mutton, beef and chicken in lunch and dinner. So, we are clearly meat eaters for rest of two meal. Oooh! Just another addition, some of us are fond of payee and bong / nihari in breakfast too :P
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Raj Oct 15, 2015 01:56pm
Amazing ! Pakistan do not look very different from India.
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SAEED PK Oct 15, 2015 02:01pm
Halwa Puri is weekend choice of many families and not regular. I am from Lahore but have been living at Rawalpindi for the last many years and found Refreshment Centre at Commercial Market is the best for Halwa Puri. Most of the people eat Puri and Channay with Achaar, Onion and Halwa is an optional for those who like to have against additional payment.
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Harsh Oct 15, 2015 02:05pm
Sorry but truly disgusting dish for breakfast. Very unhealthy. You should ear poha, cereals, juice, fruit and eggs. Not this ghee and fat. No matter so much unhealthiness prevails there.
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BRILLIANT Oct 15, 2015 02:06pm
This is real Pakistan, real India. Not the images of division created by politicians, armymen, journalists, diplomats, bureaucrats and others.
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KD Oct 15, 2015 02:09pm
Wow mouth watering stuff......
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Satt Oct 15, 2015 02:11pm
Come to India..in Navratri days you will find Halwa Puri in every Indian house but caution never try it if are not a healthy person.
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lafanga Oct 15, 2015 02:13pm
Clogged up arteries written all over this but all delicious dishes have this in common. God created man and also created ghee and shakkar to test us lol. My recollection is that best halwa puri used to be at Yusuf falooda shop in purani anarkali.
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M.Saeed Oct 15, 2015 02:32pm
@kashmiri pandits : Lahore peopel have the world's sharpest canine , grinding molars and robust omnivore set of teeth and they can devour any type of food with delight.
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Indian Oct 15, 2015 02:56pm
@Harsh , Gosh! that was so judgemental! Just the way you have the right to choose what you eat, the rest of us too.. Please stop preaching others in the name of presenting a contradicting view.. Both are different.. PS: Halwa-Puri-Choley Zindabad!! :P
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seenivasan Oct 15, 2015 03:00pm
I have traveled almost all the gulf countries and also Afhanistan, Bangledesh due to my professional reason but I have intended to take trip to Pakistan so how Pakistan going to be i don`t know ? it is for curiosity & know about Pakistan.let me study by opening the google and find out Pakistan Visa procedure and other related requirements. definitely I want to visit one of the above poori halva shop for tasting the delicious food last one week I have enough to read Pakistan news papers due to curiosity nothing else. Thanks Pakistan buddies
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jamal Oct 15, 2015 03:01pm
Karachi has the best of best. Clean and wholesome. No khuta and no Khora.
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SAEED PK Oct 15, 2015 03:01pm
@Raj Pakistan and India separated for about 70 years but we lived togather for thousands of years so common food, culture etc. like you are Raj and I am Rajput, no difference. Both government restricted people at border otherwise people want to go / come India & Pakistan to have a taste of each other food on weekend.
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Karma Oct 15, 2015 03:14pm
Puri with mashed potato and coconut chutney...is awesome....hear from people who spread PURI..
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Avijit Roy Oct 15, 2015 03:34pm
@Harsh : I agree with you that this meal as a breakfast is unhealthy. But I think most Indians prefer this type of breakfast.
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ramesh Oct 15, 2015 03:36pm
In Delhi, during Navratri days, Halwa, Poori and aloo sabzi is given free at every nook and corner on pattal(cups made of dry leaves). Believe me when prepared in mass scale it gives a taste which can never be found in any restaurant or dhaba, it is truly divine.
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Danish Oct 15, 2015 03:45pm
try halwa puri made by Navaid bhai just near Mulla Halwai at Golimar Chowrangi, Karachi. One of the best of the mega city.
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SAMI Oct 15, 2015 03:48pm
Karachi Halwa Puri is better then Lahore (in images look wise) and maximum high end shop price is 17/puri
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SAMI Oct 15, 2015 03:48pm
Karachi Halwa Puri is better then Lahore (in images look wise) and maximum high end shop price is 17/puri
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Manish Srivastava Oct 15, 2015 03:55pm
Wish to see Lahore once in a life time
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tam Oct 15, 2015 03:56pm
CAPRI GOT THE BEST IN HALWA PURI'S.
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Bitter Truth Oct 15, 2015 04:12pm
The author forgot to mention "capri" this might beat all of the above!
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sudhir Oct 15, 2015 04:17pm
Puri is a pan India dish. In the north they eat Puri with Chole. In Maharashtra Puri is served with potato bhaji. Bengalis serve it with Dum Aloo curry. Down south it's served with saag and Chutney.
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Waqas Ahmad Oct 15, 2015 04:38pm
Totally unfair that you didn't even consider Capri Resturent, Libert market in the list.
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Harsh Oct 15, 2015 04:50pm
@Indian : You are free to follow unhealthy habits, no one has stopped you. Other are free to criticize it for what it is.
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jun Oct 15, 2015 04:50pm
very unhealthy food and very unhygienic places
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Harsh Oct 15, 2015 04:51pm
@Avijit Roy : That is why Indians are unfit. Halva puri never did any good to anyone, besides it does not even taste good.
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Awais Oct 15, 2015 05:23pm
No Question about the big names mentioned above not a very huge fan of halwa puri as I am among Lahories who can die for nann Channay... Yet I don't like writer title including quest as these names are well known even non Lahories know them... Quest would have been if he would have tasted underdogs.... Believe you me a few will give these heavyweights a real tough time and might penetrate in the list of top ten.....
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Farooq Jawed Oct 15, 2015 06:11pm
No wonder Punjab has one of the highest rate of Coronary Disease in the world. Have some more Halwa Puri, why don't you! We must promote healthy eating habits
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Someone Somewhere Oct 15, 2015 06:14pm
So cheap(in price) food, amazing!
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Prasad Oct 15, 2015 06:37pm
@Harsh : Cereal is worse than Halwa Puri. Western advertisements are pushing for cereal. All corn based cereals are from type 2 yellow corn which is GMO and un healthy for even animals. Poha is not a wise choice either. If you want eat healthy, then go for Idli or eat some freshly cooked milled Oats.
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iffi21@gmail.com Oct 15, 2015 06:49pm
Great article Sheharyar! You should go try Mullah Habib Halwa Puri in a close by town of Sharqpur. It will surpass all your expectations. He makes it in desi ghee and prepares the flakiest and lightest puri you will ever have. His keema wali tikki is also outstanding. If you are a fan of halwa puri you will not be disappointed.
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Zarar Younis Oct 15, 2015 06:49pm
once a week its okay i suppose?? @Harsh
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Arvind ajimal Oct 15, 2015 06:50pm
Vaah,.......this article is a big big appetizer. My diet resolution ends today!
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Mast Mallang Oct 15, 2015 07:02pm
A very good and informative article. This is what we miss outside of Pakistan. You can't have the same taste anywhere else in the world. "Lahori Halwa Poori/Naashtay ka koi Jorr nahi." If possible do an article like this on "Naan Chanay/cholay/chikker chollay."
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Shah Oct 15, 2015 07:12pm
I used to go nutts for Aloo/Puri/Halwa during my childhood and there was a shop in Karachi called Royal Sweets and also place in waterpump (don't know the name) and they had the best puris (crispy) I have yet to have anywhere else.
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NoName00 Oct 15, 2015 07:28pm
How come you didn't visit Capri in liberty market?
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Harmony-1 Oct 15, 2015 07:31pm
@Shalone - "Are there any nice places in better part of lahore" where you can eat this? There is no need for such snobbery if you are coming from Europe! You should see see real old city of Lahore
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Ashish Mishra Oct 15, 2015 07:53pm
This indicate that peoples from Pakistan and India have same choice. Partition of nation does not create partition in peoples test, choice and culture. Hope One day I will visit to Lahor without any interruption and can move freely at any part of Pakistan without fear. Hope for the best
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timetostopthis Oct 15, 2015 07:55pm
@Farooq Jawed That is true..even in India, north Indians have the highest incidence of heart disease as they eat more non veg and unhealthy oily food.
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voice Oct 15, 2015 08:05pm
You can find similar kind of stuff in north India however the price would be bit higher. I really cant understand how can they sale so much in such a low price
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waseem Oct 15, 2015 08:20pm
You want best Halwa Purri ? Go to Sialkot, you will not be disappointed. Lahore is no way near.
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asim Oct 15, 2015 08:31pm
Halwa puri near gumti bzar meher sweets also have very good taste
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asim Oct 15, 2015 08:32pm
Meher sweets near gumti bazar is also have good taste
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Brahmdev Vashisht Oct 15, 2015 09:04pm
The only down side of Halwa Poori and Aloo ki sabzi is that it is addictive and you never know when to stop . Correct me if I am wrong . By the time you start feeling guilty of not being able to stop , you already ate too much . In a plate they always show just two pooris and I challenge any one to stop at just two pooris and say ," I am done ". No Pakistani news paper is complete with out giving some piece on food . It is the same story on this side of the border as well . Food unites us and rest everything divides .
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Thair Khan Oct 15, 2015 09:22pm
You are looking in the wrong city.
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Shanti Shah Oct 15, 2015 09:49pm
I live in Kenya. We have never heard or tasted halva puri. One day we hope to travel to Pakistan for this type of food. This is an excellent article
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Sa`ad Mohamed Oct 15, 2015 10:18pm
You need to try the offerings at Lazzat Qada in Ghalib Market in Gulberg. I'm very finicky about my poorree chanay and found this place to be surprisingly good! :)
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Sa`ad Mohamed Oct 15, 2015 10:24pm
@tam Capri is overrated. Too much meythi in their chanas and no pickle/achaar to go along with.
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NASR Oct 15, 2015 10:26pm
@kashmiri pandits It is not surprising that we have Halwa Puri but it is very surprising that you came to know now that we also have Halwa Puri.
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Sa`ad Mohamed Oct 15, 2015 10:31pm
@SAEED PK Refreshment Center is good but you need to try the desi stuff at Kartaar Pura near Bani Chowk :D
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Abdul Khadar Oct 15, 2015 10:42pm
If u eat halwa puri regularly, you live only half of your life.
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NASR Oct 15, 2015 10:53pm
@Raj Well if you have visited Pakistan then! 16-17 years ago every Indian who visited Karachi where I used to live would admire the city way beyond our imagination. Today, I do not know how you will see Karachi. For me also it is not Karachi of recent past.
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Mohammad Butt Oct 15, 2015 10:59pm
The best halwa puri I had as a youngster was at Jullundar Sweets on Beadon Road Lahore.
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NASR Oct 15, 2015 11:02pm
I am from Karachi and love Halwa Puri and I grew with it having it at least once a week. I am a food lover and have noted down every good and tasty thing from this article so I can enjoy on my next, yes, only 2nd Lahore visit soon. But the Halwa Poori and Keema Tikki/Kachori I loved was a place in Botal Gali near Light Houseon MA Jinnah Rd. Karachi. They use to prepare KalaChana Cholay in Assli ghee. with a light separate alloo ki bhujya. This curry was the best. Next was right in front of Boulton Market on MA Jinnah Rd. Small place but busy and distinctive taste that with a Onion Garlic pickle, If I remember.
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Manish Mishra Oct 15, 2015 11:08pm
Only in the subcontinent (India-Pak in particular) will you find Peergate, Ibrahimpura as the most bustling place of an Indian city nd Lakshmi chowk as the central place of a Pakistani city.... Walled cities, chowk areas, the main masjid along side the main temple(thts in India tho), crowds, tea, hot breakfast and what we call "patiya baazi" (in Bhopal where I live) thruout the day!!! Ohhhhh. What else do u call culture. Great. I felt the same craving for a chilli foggy winter morning breakfast.
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gaurav Oct 15, 2015 11:55pm
I am surprised no indian has commented on the rates so far. PKR 15 to PKR 30 for halwa puri chana???? that is INR 10 to INR 20 .... I am from delhi and I don't think we get anything in that amount ....maybe guys from smaller cities from India can share their view. It appears Pakistan is far more cost effective to live.... A question for Pakistani - how much does a chai ( roadside cost )?
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dabangg Oct 16, 2015 12:06am
I unfortunately have never heard of halwa puri.
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Parveen Oct 16, 2015 01:02am
It was mouth watering description.I feel like flying from Houston to Lahore to taste this.I have tasted Kulcha for breakfast,i don't know where my uncle got it from.I liked the food at Cukoo's Nest as well. Keep writing and sharing your experience.Thank you.
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Parveen Oct 16, 2015 01:08am
@kashmiri pandits , I think you are ignorant.Do some research on the subject.Only thirty percent of Indians are vegetarians. How many non veg. restaurants are in every city,find the number on google.It will open your eyes.
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SBB Oct 16, 2015 01:36am
Very enjoyable article! I wish I could try some of these places.. but thank you.
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saleem Oct 16, 2015 01:46am
who eat this junk looking that cooking oil made me puke
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Zaheen Oct 16, 2015 03:53am
You should have tried Riaz Sweets Halwa puri in Old Anarkli . It sumptuously beat karachi's halwa puri.Next time you are there,try it.
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Shaam سے Oct 16, 2015 06:31am
Puri are small round and totally puffed up if you eat hot. The pictures here of puri's look more like Bhuturas or Afghani pooras due to their size. Halwa is made up of lot of stuff not just soji, e.g. Atta, Daal, Kaddu... etc. Sikhs, Budhits, Jains and Hindus all have Halva as their Prasad mostly after prayers.
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Ramesh K Sharma Oct 16, 2015 07:21am
I read the whole article and found at home in Lahore. while I was reading this article I was thinking how similiar we are but how much hatred we have developed for each other. I hope as the older generation vanes and younger generation takes control of the destiny of our two countries the dividing wall will become irrelevant and we will be able to live like siblings. God bless our two countries.
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Ramesh K Sharma Oct 16, 2015 07:26am
@Harsh I am from Indian Punjab but your comments are ridiculous. Please do not ridicule just because it is about Lahore. There is no harm in relishing a bit rich food once or twice a week. You are free to eat poha and other dishes you mentioned for breakfast but you shouldn't be commenting on what other eat.
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Adnan Nagi Oct 16, 2015 09:42am
@Manish Srivastava You can come as many time as you want. Lahore welcome everyone
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JAYANT OSWAL Oct 16, 2015 11:27am
Amused to read that the owner of CHAND SHAAB are simultaneously in the business of selling poories, halwa and of running a hospital ( Zakariya Hospital). Any special discount in the hospital to regular Halwa Poorie eaters?
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adnan Oct 16, 2015 11:43am
@gaurav karak tea from roadside dhaba costs PKR20 now adays, and a doodhpatti may cost PKR 25 with layer milk cream on top,, too good
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Salah Baig Oct 16, 2015 12:04pm
@GAURAV Road side tea costs about 15 rupees on average.
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adnan Oct 16, 2015 12:10pm
@gaurav , please can u mention how much this halwa puri for one person costs in big cities of India ??
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shujauddin Oct 16, 2015 12:26pm
@Harmony-1 YES.You can have very tasty halwapuri with Dogar at H block food street DHA phase 1 lahore.CHATKHARA in same market also.
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Asim Oct 16, 2015 07:13pm
@Muhammad Majid Where is Nasir Sweets, location?
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Hamid Khawaja Oct 16, 2015 08:50pm
Could someone mark these places on Google Maps and post them so that it is easy to find them. I am particularly interested in Sadiq and Taj Mahal in particular.
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Ednan Oct 17, 2015 09:20pm
Great review of out of the box item like halwa puri nashta in lahore.
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Ednan Oct 17, 2015 09:20pm
Great review of out of the box item like halwa puri nashta in lahore.
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Sj Oct 18, 2015 11:48am
@JAYANT OSWAL it is not unusual to have a flat tire near a workshop....is it?
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