Dawn Images

The world of high fashion is expensive, fast-paced, and constantly evolving, with major labels undergoing frequent transformations by hiring new creative directors, especially in the past couple of years.

According to Burda Luxury, creative directors are increasingly leaving fashion houses due to the industry’s demand for constant reinvention and the ever-shortening tenures in these roles.

To help you (and ourselves) keep up with the ever-changing world of fashion, we compiled a list of all the recent creative changes in haute couture. We may not be able to afford products offered by these brands, but at least we’ll be well-informed!

Jonathan Anderson exits Loewe

On March 17, Jonathan Anderson exited the Spanish luxury fashion house Loewe as its creative director. The Northern Irish designer was appointed creative director of the brand in 2013 and since then has helped proliferate its commercial success.

Anderson’s tenure was marked with creativity and innovation. Under his direction, Loewe collaborated with Japanese animation studio Studio Ghibli and had campaigns featuring the likes of Maggie Smith and Daniel Craig.

After Anderson’s departure, Loewe said it experienced “exceptional growth” under his direction and, according to chief executive officer Pascale Lepoivre, “has risen to new heights with international recognition”.

Donatella Versace’s creative reign ends

Donatella Versace gave up the creative reins of luxury fashion label Versace after nearly three decades, it was announced on March 13, effectively ending the family’s hold over the brand founded by her famously murdered brother.

The platinum blond fixture of Italian fashion, who turns 70 in May, will be succeeded by Miu Miu’s design director Dario Vitale, in what some industry insiders see as a prelude to an upcoming acquisition of Versace by its larger rival Prada, which also owns Miu Miu.

Donatella Versace will now become the label’s chief brand ambassador beginning April 1, the same day Vitale takes over, owner Capri Holdings Limited said.

“It has been the greatest honour of my life to carry on my brother Gianni’s legacy. He was the true genius, but I hope I have some of his spirit and tenacity,” Versace said.

Demna heads to Gucci, leaves Balenciaga

Called “fashion’s master maverick” by Vogue Business, Demna Gvasalia, known monymously as Demna, stepped down as Balenciaga’s creative director after a decade on March 13. That very day, it was announced that Demna would join Italian luxury house Gucci as its artistic director, replacing Sabato de Sarno.

His time at Balenciaga was notable for projects such as a viral 30-minute dress, a Simpsons collaboration and experimenting with next-gen technologies and materials such as connected clothing and leather alternatives.

However, it wasn’t one without controversy as Balenciaga faced backlash after a campaign in 2022 was accused of sexualising children. The brand issued an apology and deleted all images from the campaign on its social media platforms. The ad, which was for the brand’s upcoming holiday collection, featured children holding teddy bears in bondage gear.

Demna’s arrival at Gucci hasn’t been smooth. The fashion house’s parent company Kering lost around $3 billion in stock market value on March 14 after the group chose in-house talent Demna to reinvigorate its Gucci label rather than hiring one of fashion’s big-ticket names as chief designer, Reuters reported.

Kering’s shares fell by up to 13 per cent in morning trade in Paris and were on track for their worst day in almost a year following the appointment.

Although widely praised for his street-style-inspired looks and attention-grabbing showmanship at Balenciaga, many analysts said 43-year-old Demna was a risky pick for the much larger label Gucci with its reputation for timeless elegance.

Power-couple Luke and Lucie Meier depart from Jil Sander

Co-creative directors and husband-and-wife, Luke and Lucie Meier departed from Milan-based fashion house Jil Sander on February 26 after eight years.

In a statement, the chairperson for the OTB Group, which acquired the brand in 2021, thanked the Meiers for their “vision, passion for excellence, and dedication to the brand”.

After the couple left the brand, Lucie wrote on Instagram, “Luke and I are touched to have presented our last collection for Jil Sander after eight years with the house. We want to thank everyone that has been involved and contributed their skill, creativity, and energy.

“We are so proud of all we have achieved together, and even more proud of the wonderful friendships we have made.”

Of their tenure at Jil Sander, Vogue said, “Intensely thoughtful, they have brought stability back to the label while materially engaging with craft through design to create a vision of Sander that was simultaneously true to its liberating origins but also specific to their vision.”

The Meiers were replaced by Simone Bellotti on March 10 after he vacated the creative director post at Bally.

Glenn Martens joins Maison Margiela

Glenn Martens, the creative director of Diesel (yes, the shop at Dolmen Mall Clifton, where you can’t afford anything), was also hired for the same position by French luxury fashion house Maison Margiela.

Martens will remain the creative director of Diesel.

In a statement quoted by Vogue Business, the designer said, “I feel extremely honoured to join the amazing Maison Margiela, a truly unique house that has been inspiring the world for decades. And I thank Renzo for the trust he is putting in me.”

The Renzo he speaks of is Renzo Rosso, the chairperson of the OTB Group, which owns Maison Margiela.

“I have worked with Glenn for years, I have witnessed his talent, and I know what he is capable of,” Rosso said. “After Martin, who gave life to the Maison and its unique Artisanal line, and John, who made it the most cutting-edge couture house in the world, I am proud to have a third couturier at its helm. Glenn […] has already shown his prowess and his vision in couture.”

Martens replaces John Galliano who served as Maison Margiella’s creative director from 2014 till last year.

Bottega Veneta hires Louise Trotter

Louise Trotter, the former creative director at French brand Carven, joined Bottega Veneta, replacing Matthieu Blazy as the creative director at the Italian luxury house.

“Her aesthetic seamlessly combines exquisite design with sublime craft, and her commitment to cultural advocacy aligns beautifully with our brand vision,” Bottega Veneta chief executive Bartolomeo Rongone said in a statement.

“Through her sophisticated lens, Bottega Veneta will continue to celebrate its heritage while preserving modern relevance.”

Trotter’s spot at Carven was filled by Mark Thomas, who was her second-in-command.

Chanel’s new artistic director? Matthieu Blazy.

The position for French luxury fashion brand Chanel (this one we all know in Pakistan), perhaps the most coveted job in fashion, was given to Matthieu Blazy on December 12, 2024.

In his new role, Blazy will be responsible for all haute couture, ready-to-wear and accessories collections. He will report to Bruno Pavlovsky, president of Chanel Fashion and Chanel SA, the brand announced.

“I am convinced that he will be able to play with the codes and heritage of the house, through an ongoing dialogue with the studio, our ateliers, and our maisons d’art,” Pavlovsky said, according to Vogue Business.

“His audacious personality, his innovative and powerful approach to creation, as well as his dedication to craftsmanship and beautiful materials, will take Chanel in exciting new directions.”

Blazy will serve as the fourth artistic director in the brand’s 114-year-old legacy. His predecessor Virginie Viard suddenly departed from the brand in June 2024 and the position has been vacant since. Before Viard, the legendary Karl Lagerfeld and Chanel’s founder, Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel served as the artistic directors.

While rumours swirled that the most coveted job in fashion might go to designers such as Simon Porte Jacquemus, Michael Kors, Hedi Slimane or Sarah Burton, to name a few, it was Blazy who ultimately got the position.

As the world of fashion continues to fluctuate, the announcement of all these new creative and artistic directors appears to be stuck in the archaic ways of the industry. Haute couture continues to be helmed predominantly by white men, despite the availability of qualified, talented women of colour.

So the next time you think about buying the Chanel Number 5 perfume or a pair of loafers from Gucci, remember who the creative directors are behind these brand and consider if you can purchase from women of colour-led brands instead.