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“Food for Italians is part of their DNA. When Italians finish their lunch, before leaving the table, they discuss the menu for tomorrow’s lunch,” chefs Samuele Zaninotto and Antonio Cruccas explained with a laugh.

The two chefs were in Pakistan at the invitation of the Italian Embassy to celebrate the 9th annual international week of Italian cuisine, titled, Mediterranean Diet and Cuisine of the Origins: Health and Tradition.

The duo showcased their culinary skills in Lahore to a select few guests and then spent two days in Islamabad.

In the words of Italian Ambassador to Pakistan Marilina Armellin, “The culinary tapestry of Italy is rich in colours, vibrant flavours and ingredients that have travelled with major migration and historical events. The gala dinner was organised to celebrate the role of food in preserving and improving human health without compromising on the taste.”

Attendance at the Shamadan Hall at Islamabad’s Serena Hotel was full as the black-tie dinner was not one to be missed.

The five-course meal, prepared by chefs Zaninotto and Cruccas, started with an aperitif — polenta fritta concia alla valdostana, which was a fried polenta with cheese fondue.

Chef Zaninotta explained that the dough was made with maze, shaped like a stick and deep fried, and served with cheese fondue. At first sight, the polenta looked similar to a mozzarella stick, however, instead of stuffed cheese, this dish had a cheese dip on the side. The polenta wasn’t crunchy, since there was no breadcrumb coating. However, the cheese was airy and light and went well with the polenta sticks, which in the words of Zaninotta, was a must-have appetiser in the north of Italy.

Next up was the starter: farinata di ceci alla ligure, a round, baked, chickpea flour pancake with shrimp. The savoury pancake is a popular street food in Genoa on the Ligurian coast. In Italy, it is usually served with soup and salad, Cruccas informed us.

The pancake was soft on the inside and crispy on the outside and paired perfectly with the sizeable shrimp which managed to cut down on the acidity of the chickpeas. The protein was succulent and in good enough quantity to satiate one’s appetite.

Both chefs believed that the variation in taste between the cuisines of northern and southern Italy was due to weather and the terrestrial range, from mountainous to coastal.

THey explained that in the north, Italians use mostly butter to cook, whereas in the south, extra virgin olive oil is preferred. Similarly, in northern Italian cuisine, gorgonzola, fontina, and parmigiano are the most commonly-used cheeses, whereas in the south, they are more influenced by stretched curds, like mozzarella, provolone, and caciocavallo.

The time for the first course arrived and the guests were served risotto e ossobuco alla Milanese. The saffron rice dish was topped with veal ossobuco — a beautifully cooked veal shank accompanied by braised vegetables. Irresistible!

“It is not only Milan’s most famous dish but risotto has made its place in the international culinary scene. It is infused with earthy flavours and a tone of golden touch from the saffron,” explained Cruccas.

The dish was simply divine — the rice was bursting with flavour while the veal was perfectly cooked and melting in the mouth.

Both chefs are on the panel of the Federation of Italian Chefs, are widely travelled, and have been working as consultants for new restaurateurs and participating in culinary festivals around the globe.

“I have been part of the culinary edition representing the government of Italy in Oslo, Norway, Rabbat, Morrocco, and Istanbul, Turkiye in the last three years and now Pakistan is the fourth year to show my culinary skills,” said Zaninotta, whose family owns olive farms two hours away from Rome, in a small village called Jarno.

For Cruccas, cooking was a childhood dream. “When I was little, my grandfather used to make me breakfast. He used to go to his kitchen garden, pluck some ripe tomatoes, basil leaves, collect organic eggs, and bake homemade bread with freshly ground flour. My playmates were the sheep and calves. I just wanted to be a chef and nothing else,” he said. The chef grew up in Sardina, an island with blue waters, famous for its food and wine.

Soon it was time for the main course, tonno alla cacciatora Toscana, aka, tuna cubes marinated with garlic and pepper, rosemary, and bean cream.

According to the chefs, the dish could have a lot of variations with tomatoes or without tomatoes, with chicken without chicken, however, regardless of the recipe, alla cacciatora denoted a humble rustic preparation of the dish.

“The principal form of Italian cuisine or recipe is dependent on the product. Traditional kitchens prefer taste over presentation, as well as natural and organic choices for an authentic taste. Many chefs change and infuse traditional dishes with new herbs whereas the old timers prefer traditional grandma recipes. We have prepared the main course with the traditional recipe,” they said.

It was indeed a pleasant surprise to look at the picture-perfect tuna with bean cream so well presented. It was an absolute knockout, with robust flavours — a balancing act of spices, acidity, sweetness and umami.

The time had come for the finale and the chefs had prepared cremoso al pistachio con fonduta di ciaccolato, which translates to pistachio parfait with melted dark chocolate.

It was the showstopper of the evening, hands down. It was smooth and sweet with a rich creamy texture. The melted chocolate infused with pistachio was delicious on many levels. The only downside was that one could not ask for seconds because the dish was pre-plated.

“Italian cuisine is not just about health and tradition. It is about living, especially living together with family and friends. We believe this is the true recipe for happiness and as we all know happiness is real only when it is shared. So remember, tonight we cherish what brings us together and there could not be a better language to celebrate this than food,” Ambassador Armellin said, while thanking the guests.