Images

Masterchef winner Saliha Mahmood is writing a cookbook inspired by Mughal cuisine

Masterchef winner Saliha Mahmood is writing a cookbook inspired by Mughal cuisine

The book, titled Khazana, will be published next September
Updated 05 Oct, 2017

If there is one thing all Pakistanis living abroad can agree on, it’s that legitimate desi Chinese is impossible to find, and MasterChef UK 2017 winner, British Pakistani Saliha Mahmood-Ahmed is no different.

When asked what her favourite things to eat are when she visits Lahore, honey sesame chicken from Sing Kuong, plus dishes at Golden Wok and Yum were on the top of the list. She described desi Chinese as a “very strange and different fusion not available anywhere else in the world”.

Saliha is a doctor training to specialise in gastroenterology, which takes up pretty much all of her time, but her “serious hobby” of cooking won her the MasterChef UK title this year, after blowing away judges with dishes that Pakistanis will very easily be able to relate to, such as shami kabab (though hers were made of venison).

"Desi Chinese is a very strange and different fusion not available anywhere else in the world”

The dish is likely to feature in her upcoming cookbook called Khazana out next September that she is spending all her free time writing, and which will feature a modern take on Mughal recipes aimed at a western audience (without toning down the spices).

Saliha said she has always been fascinated by the art, culture and history around the Mughals, particular the stories about how passionate they were about food and cooking, adding that she “loves how they use nuts, saffron and cream and yoghurt to make rich foods”.

“Why not write a cookbook which celebrates my heritage and culture and what it is to be a Pakistani.. or even north Indian or Persian,” she said. “The Mughals influence spread across that entire region from Iran to Pakistan to India... a lot of our dishes are influenced by their techniques and recipes”.

“It is exciting for me to be able to bring something quite traditional and inherent to Pakistani people to a western audience,” she said.

The shami kabab that won Saliha her dreams
The shami kabab that won Saliha her dreams

Her book will include anecdotes about the history or recipes. For instance, she said shami kababs were invented by the chef of a Mughal emperor who had lost his teeth and couldn’t chew normal kababs.

How she has any time write a cookbook is a wonder given weekends are often spent performing cookery demonstrations at food festivals, supper clubs and collaborations with various restaurants.

The most recent one was with Sameer Taneja, the chef at a popular Indian restaurant in London called Talli Joe. The idea was to mark 70 years of independence for India and Pakistan with a feast of ten dishes which celebrates food on the Grand Trunk road.

It is exciting for me to be able to bring something quite traditional and inherent to Pakistani people to a western audience

Saliha said the food included “corn chaat, namkeen gosht, deep fried stuff, fish curries - things you would find on the highway with our ‘chefy’ influences to make it something special”.

One does wonder how someone so clearly passionate about food ended up becoming a doctor. When she was 15, she won a cooking competition, with the prize being an apprenticeship at a London restaurant – something that would have been the perfect segue into a career in cooking.

Saliha with Sameer Taneja
Saliha with Sameer Taneja

However, she gave the prize to the runner-up because she was far too involved in school, where she was into “debating and academia, and where she ended up becoming head girl.

Now, she is happy her medical career is going smoothly enough for her to spend some serious time with cooking – although it does seem to be quite a balancing act, being on call at all hours.

Saliha’s family is originally from Srinagar, Kashmir but she says she has “a strong connection with Punjab” as she would visit her grandparents two to three times a year in Lahore when they were alive.

She mentioned she has received a lot of accolade from Pakistan, with journalists keen to cover her story as it shows a positive side of someone from the country being successful abroad. Her parents have a home in Lahore and though she hasn’t been in a few years, she is itching to go back.

A trip is long overdue, she tells me.

“For inspiration?”, I ask

“For more eating!” she was quick to reply.

Comments

Shakil Oct 05, 2017 09:05am
I am in China these days and crying for Desi food.
Recommend
Armaan Oct 05, 2017 09:41am
Shami kebab is Indian Lucknowi dish. It originated it Lucknow. It's cuisine and culture of Indian state Uttar Pradesh people.
Recommend
ILYAS Oct 05, 2017 10:54am
Looking forward to the book..
Recommend
Hasan Oct 05, 2017 12:12pm
It takes somebody with Pakistani blood to show the world what true desi cooking is all about - great to see this girl representing! Hasan
Recommend
aamer Oct 05, 2017 12:57pm
@Armaan Hindus dont eat meet its against their religion. Sami Kebab is a Muslim dish and Lucknow has majority of Muslims.
Recommend
kavita Oct 05, 2017 12:59pm
Sorry to be a spoil sport but Mughlai influence did not spread to Pakistan contrary to what the Masterchef winner believes. There was no Pakistan at that time. She needs to brush up her knowledge of history along with her cooking techniques.
Recommend
Jawad Oct 05, 2017 02:45pm
@kavita ......sorry but from where Mughals entered into india? what lahore was known as then? The city of Mughals. Everybody in Sub contient knows how famous Punjab especially Lahore for its Mughal history.
Recommend
Sanjay Oct 05, 2017 04:15pm
@Jawad Lahore got its name from Ram's son Luv. Lahore and Punjab are famous for Punjabi cuisine not Lucknowi cuisine.
Recommend
Armaan Oct 05, 2017 06:11pm
@aamer Hindus eat meat and also drink alcohol. 70% of Indians are non vegetarians.
Recommend
Sarfaraz Oct 05, 2017 06:51pm
@Jawad Facts - Lucknow is world famous as city of Mughals. It's ethnicity and state is known for Mughal cuisine, Taj Mahal, language Urdu and culture.
Recommend
ahmedj Oct 06, 2017 12:49am
The recipe book may define the food as "Subcontinental - Persian cuisine". This covers the entire region influenced by Moghul heritage which they brought with them now known as Afghanistan, Pakistan, India and Bangladesh.
Recommend
Aranya Oct 06, 2017 03:47am
@aamer and Lucknow Muslims are Indians. Actually everyone living in Indian boundary is an Indian.
Recommend
MUHAMMAD Oct 06, 2017 04:17am
@Sanjay and ARMAAN, doesn't matter, Mughlai culture has an influence on Pakistani culture as well as around 10% of Pakistanis came from present day UP, Delhi, Bihar Hyderabad etc. If u guys can use Sindh in ur national anthem , we for sure have the right to call Mughlai cuisine as our own because: 1. We accept and celebrate their culture unlike u guys who despise them and consider them as foreign invaders 2. Despite being Punjabi, Lahore was the capital of Mughal empire and this has an influence of their presence 3. Culture of south Asian muslims in general was shaped during Mughals hence their culture is an integral part of our lives.
Recommend
farouq omaro Oct 06, 2017 04:54am
Desi food is the best! Despite being surrounded by Southeast Asian and Western cuisine where I live, I make it a point to cook desi food for my children at least twice weekly. And they love it. I will try to get this new cookbook. Good job Saliha!
Recommend
farouq omaro Oct 06, 2017 04:55am
@aamer Many Hindus I know eat meat. Beef is also common among Hindus in Kerala.
Recommend