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Weekend grub: New Karachi bistro Côte-Rôtie proves simple doesn't have to be boring

Weekend grub: New Karachi bistro Côte-Rôtie proves simple doesn't have to be boring

Uncomplicated dishes burst with flavour at this cafe -- plus it's the first to do quinoa justice!
Updated 15 Jan, 2016

Forever on the quest to find a fresh, delicious meal made with quality ingredients, a friend and I decided to try the newest eatery that opened its doors to Karachi: Côte-Rôtie.

When we strolled in for lunch the place was empty despite the cafe's Facebook page instructing us to make reservations. I suppose this is because the restaurant is inside the Alliance Francaise, and that they're checking off reservations for security purposes rather than crowd control. In either case while we were seated a few tables slowly filled up with your typical lunch-going crowd: well-coiffed older women and the occasional group of friends dipping out of work.

Côte-Rôtie is the brainchild of Fahim Jaffar, owner and head chef. He used to work in IT before the food bug hit him and when it did he decided to learn from the best: in other words, he spent two years in the kitchen at Okra.

So I had high hopes from Côte-Rôtie. The cafe is spacious and vaguely mimics a French bistro. Both outdoor and indoor seating is available, though the outdoor space has no shade over it so it isn't very inviting. A few large umbrellas or an awning might help with this.

Côte-Rôtie's clean decor is a breath of fresh air.
Côte-Rôtie's clean decor is a breath of fresh air.

The staff were pleasant and helpful and Fahim stepped out of the kitchen to check on us personally, which is always a nice touch at a new restaurant. Here's a lowdown of the experience:

Where to go:

Côte-Rôtie is a trendy little cafe tucked inside Karachi's Alliance Francaise in Clifton. It opened its doors to the public in December 2015.

When to go:

At present Côte-Rôtie doesn't serve dinner. It's open from 12.30pm to 7pm.

What to order:

The menu is limited but covers a selection of starters, salads, tartines (open-faced sandwiches), sandwiches, mains, artisanal breads and desserts.

I feel the bread basket is a huge tell, so we went ahead and ordered that first. The Selection of Artisanal Breads was delicious -- all the bread is baked on the premises and is fluffy, salty and yum. Continuing with the bread theme, we had the Cheese Puffs for starters and they were delightful too: flaky, mildly cheesey pastry with a hollow center that you could go on eating for days.

The Artisanal Breads were scrumptious and fluffy; Fahim's experience at Okra becomes apparent here.
The Artisanal Breads were scrumptious and fluffy; Fahim's experience at Okra becomes apparent here.

Then we were craving some salad. We loved the Quinoa, Sweet Potato & Broccoli salad - tangy and sweet at the same time, it was delicious yet incredibly light. Some dishes with quinoa that I've tasted in Karachi have been bland, as if chefs aren't quite sure how to season this grain substitute. I'm happy to report Côte-Rôtie has the method down.

As for the tartines, the Truffled Egg and Gruyere looks great but must be eaten piping hot. We let it sit for a while before digging in (we were busy devouring the salad) and that was a mistake - the cheese grew hard and the egg gluey.

The Quinoa salad (L) was one of the best I've had in the city because of which the Truffled Egg and Gruyere tartine got neglected and was eaten cold.
The Quinoa salad (L) was one of the best I've had in the city because of which the Truffled Egg and Gruyere tartine got neglected and was eaten cold.

After this we tasted the Bresaola, Mozzarella, Pickled Chili sandwich that was served on focaccia bread, and that was a real winner. The salty sourness of the bresaola (aged, salted beef) was tempered by the mozzarella and we just couldn't stop gushing over this gorgeous concoction. My only comment is that the ratio of meat to bread in the sandwich was a little off. A few additional slices of bresaola were needed to really make this dish a success.

A few extra slices of bresaola would have really elevated this sandwich to superstar status
A few extra slices of bresaola would have really elevated this sandwich to superstar status

We were itching to try a few mains but at this point we were stuffed. We'd also consumed an Apple, Carrot & Orange fresh-squeezed juice apiece (and hey, we'd just had breakfast) so we decided to call it quits. However, Fahim did tell us that the steak was very popular, as was the burger. I love the burger at Okra, which I feel is the best gourmet burger in town, so I'll definitely be back to try Fahim's take on my favourite comfort food.

Apple, Carrot & Orange fresh-squeezed juice at  Côte-Rôtie
Apple, Carrot & Orange fresh-squeezed juice at Côte-Rôtie

For dessert (there's a separate compartment in your tummy for dessert, haven't you heard?) we tried the Lemon Cheesecake, which was light and tasty but not outstanding. As far as cheesecakes go I've had better.

Côte-Rôtie plans to open its doors for dinner in the near future, so watch this space.

Damage on the pocket:

I found Côte-Rôtie to be pleasantly affordable. Salads range from Rs210 to RS1200, Tartines from Rs250-Rs990, and mains from Rs500-990. With this kind of range you can choose to be frugal or go all out, so you aren't forced to part with the big bucks if you don't want to.

The menu offers a variety of vegetarian options, which is rare to find in the city
The menu offers a variety of vegetarian options, which is rare to find in the city

Comments

Skeptic Jan 15, 2016 03:45pm
Pay an arm and a leg, for bland, tasteless, and small portions of foreign dish.
Recommend
faryal Jan 15, 2016 04:22pm
simple but tasty! watering mouth!
Recommend
Goga Nalaik Jan 15, 2016 04:35pm
Since it is a French restaurant (as its name suggests), it should also propose some typical french dishes
Recommend
Mahmood Jan 15, 2016 05:37pm
@Goga Nalaik Like 'French Fries' for say Rs. 400? Or Escargot or Frog's Legs for 1000 each?? I've yet to see an authentic Italian, Japanese or even a Persian Restaurant anywhere in Pakistan. All those touting their fares as 'Italian, Mexican or whatever', are poor imitations, with Pakistani chefs, lacking training and authentic skills and don't even close to making the real dish. I even had a Pizza served at the Marriott Islamabad, with only Pakistani made cheddar cheese!
Recommend
Faras Khan Jan 15, 2016 05:45pm
While my 90 % of fellow Pakistani's barely get enough to eat. Children dying in the Thar desert due to starvation... we have the audacity to promote a restaurant that reminds of you nothing but British Raj! Shame on those who go here and shame on those who have forgotten the guillotine...let not forget it was the Marie Antoinette who said why don't they eat cake if they are out of bread! [paraphrased]
Recommend
Naveed Jan 15, 2016 06:16pm
@Faras Khan Very true. Faras! Me thinks these kind of overly glamorized joints are meant to stroke some snob appeals in Pakistan! How about some good old Pakoras and Samosas for about 50 rupees instead!? Filling and tasty!
Recommend
Jibboo Jan 15, 2016 07:03pm
"...I found Côte-Rôtie to be pleasantly affordable. Salads range from Rs210 to RS1200, Tartines from Rs250-Rs990, and mains from Rs500-990. With this kind of range you can choose to be frugal or go all out...". Where is the frugal part... ? :)
Recommend
Realist Jan 15, 2016 08:21pm
So much anger here. Lets break it down. Pizza doesn't have cheddar cheese. The Bristish Raj did not have anything like what is on the menu here. People dying of hunger doesn't mean that people who have the money should not eat out. You have no idea how much any individual gives to charity, so lets not be judgmental. I am assuming your anger comes from somewhere else. Just because you don't agree with something, you do not have to threaten them with death. Now to the food. It looks amazing. The bread is probably the best in Karachi. Would recommend going just to try all the items with the bread. Two thumbs up. Great job by Mr. Jaffer.
Recommend
Goga Nalaik Jan 15, 2016 08:40pm
@Mahmood Escargot ou Cuisses de grenouille (frog's legs) are considered as starters. I wanted stuff like Bœuf Bourgnon etc.
Recommend
lafanga Jan 15, 2016 09:54pm
Looks good in pictures so I will take the word of authors. Most Pakistanis (close to 98%) won't even like the food as it does not have spices and big portions. As someone else mentioned, it looks out of place in a poor country like Pakistan but it does cater to certain segment of the society. As for me, I only dig into desi tikkas, kebabs and Karahi when in Pakistan.
Recommend
Syed Moinuddin, Canada Jan 15, 2016 10:13pm
It is good to see the taste and cuisine available in Karachi is changing. This is keeping with changes that are taking place all over the world when it comes to food. One only has to look in Toronto where I live. This is a great multicultural city and the variety of food available reflects that.
Recommend
Yasser Jan 15, 2016 11:09pm
@Faras Khan I agree it is a shame that 90% Pakistanis barely get enough to eat and there are children dying in Thar desert due to hunger etc. Surely this is something that the current or future governments must put right? There is not a lot you or I could do. I am sure the owner of this restaurant wants to earn a living and at the same time he would also employ staff to work in his restaurant so that they could also earn a living. He would actually be contributing to the society by doing so. I see nothing wrong with promoting this restaurant.
Recommend
M. Malik Jan 16, 2016 12:39am
All we need now is a Ritz Carlton, Four Seasons or even Waldorf Astoria opening up in Karachi. Not! Won't be long before we even see imitation Wolfgang Puck or Chez Panisse Restaurants in Pakistan.
Recommend
WatchIt Jan 16, 2016 04:00am
Is it in New Karachi?
Recommend
tikka kabab Jan 16, 2016 08:02am
@Realist true... but pretencious...
Recommend
tikka kabab Jan 16, 2016 08:04am
@M. Malik there is a Shelton Hotel i assume Sheraton and Marion i assume marriott up in gujranwala if you care to try...
Recommend
tikka kabab Jan 16, 2016 08:04am
@Goga Nalaik one would expect.....
Recommend
>:) Jan 16, 2016 10:29am
I prefer some samosas and the desi fare when I visit Pakistan :)
Recommend
Lahori Jan 17, 2016 05:41am
@Naveed Amen. Samosa and Pakoray, Dahi Bhalley better than quinoa salad anyday.
Recommend