There's no denying it: bridal week has shed light on the painstaking process of selecting wedding wear, shifting the conversation from hushed ateliers and word-of-mouth-only society designers to the big bad ramp.
As PFDC L'Oreal Paris Bridal Week 2015 gears up for its latest season, here's the lowdown on what can be expected from the collections this year. From cuts, colors, silhouettes and their inspiration for the bride of 2015-2016, the designers tell all.
First up: the mainstays
Who: Sana Safinaz
What: The collection is titled 'France Lesage' and is inspired by the brand's journey of discovery with surface treatments and embellishments.
Why: "The silhouettes and cuts have been inspired by the classic elegance of a bygone era, twisted to meet the modernity of the ever-evolving Pakistani woman," explains the team at Sana Safinaz. "The collection (shown above) focuses on pushing past the traditional boundaries and norms of bridal wear resulting in an innovative and cutting edge aesthetic."
The design house is working on using conventional materials in an unconventional way while using fabrics like organza, satin silk and French-net along with some of their own woven fabrics. "The focus has been on the overall silhouette that we want to update and keep on trend," they continue, "with the addition of peplum cuts and long jackets to our repertoire."
What: Their latest collection is titled "The Jasmine Court" and it will be exploring 18th century India and Indian nobility.
Why: "We are exploring the British Raj and the mahrajas of the princely states," says Khadijah Shah of Elan. "The entire collection (shown below) has a very chintzy feel to it with a softer colour palate." The design house is exploring shikargah motifs with traditional bridal silhouettes including the peshwas, kallidar angrakhas, dhoti shalwars and tapered patiala shalwars.
"It has a very royal feel to it and that is what we at Elan feel a bride should get for her bridal," continues Shah. "A bridal should be an heirloom piece that can be passed on through the generations so nothing is seasonal in this collection. We are departing from the crystals and you will see a lot more embroideries incorporated in our designs."
Who: Nomi Ansari
What: His collection titled 'Oudh' (shown below) will be as bright and colourful as you remember Nomi Ansari to be.
Why: Known for his candy-hued collections, this year will be no different for Nomi. "I am working with a lot of florals, wood-like textures and geometric patterns. Separates is the way to go so you can expect a lot of volume, capes, jackets, lehnga cholis," says Ansari. "It's a very commercial collection but it will be fun."
Who: Sania Maskatiya
What: The collection titled Afsaneh (shown below) features a lot of jewel tones and interesting spins on traditional garments and separates.
Why: The collection is inspired by our rich cultural heritage by combining centuries-old embroidery techniques with luxurious fabrics," says Maskatiya. "This collection is very experimental in terms of technique and silhouettes but our vision for the bride and wedding attendees is simple, the clothes shouldn't weigh anyone down but rather add to a person's aura and charm."
Who: Shamaeel Ansari
What: Shamaeel goes 'Absolutely Oriental' this season with a variety of cuts to cater to her vast clientele.
What: "This season I am not concentrating on the bride but rather the trousseau," says Ansari, "from shades of citrus and coffee to our signature red this collection is all about eclectic separates based on the craft of museum pieces, we are reviving 15th century crafts."
The recent favourites
Who: Ammara Khan
What: Her collection, titled 'Memoirs from a Moonlit Garden,' is inspired by a moonlit rendezvous in the wild garden of a bygone September. It marks the beginning of an eternal love.
Why: "We enjoy working with contemporary silhouettes. We've introduced a different version of a sari and our final piece has a unique bridal dupatta," says Khan. "We have reworked “peplum” for this collection which is really interesting paired with cropped pants."
Khan has opted to keep the color palette predominantly muted, with four color groups (as seen above): dirty lavender, gold, silver, and shades of green with accents of pink all over. Khan wants to stay true to her signature aesthetic and will be playing around with more contemporary cuts.
Who: Nickie n Nina
What: "Our upcoming collection is traditional yet trendy as it has to cater to the modern day bride," says Nina.
Why: "While we experiment with cuts, we have come up with a socially responsible collection based on the theme of wildlife preservation (see above). We're spreading the message to love the nature and discourage the brutal act of hunting for various reasons like illegal trade of tusks and expensive and rare animal skins," says Nina.
From using capes with lehngas, the cuts are not confined to the traditional ghagra. "The colour palate is also diverse as we incorporate hues of gold, maroon, peach, beige, turquoise and green into our collection."
Who: Fahad Hussayn
What: His collection will be titled 'Matam' and will comment on the concept of commercialized weddings.
Why: "Weddings have somewhat become the new commercial sport," says Hussayn. "From elaborate hashtags to the outfits everyone is becoming a part of this rat race and no one looks happy and it looks more like a matam and that is what I am inspired by this season. The title has nothing to do with any religious connotation," he adds.
Hussayn departs from his signature black and will be using a wide array of colours for his collection. "It feels so liberating to not use black in this collection," he confesses. "There are a lot of sporty elements in this bridal collection. From knitted Tila to cropped sweater-like choli's the motifs have been inspired from Chinioti carvings." The designer also divulges that he will be using a lot of oxidised golds and silvers with colourful embroidery.
"A little surprise awaits for those coming to the show because Ali Sethi has designed a song specifically for the collection that has me very excited," he reveals. This season seems to be embracing hybrid cuts even more so than last year and that is what one can expect at the Fahad Hussayn show.
For more, please read: Everything you need to know about PFDC L’Oréal Paris Bridal Week - Part II