Two restaurants you won’t want to miss out on in Thailand’s Krabi and Koh Samui
Tomatoes, onions, gingers and garlic are to Pakistani gastronomy what lemongrass, basil, galangal and kaffir lime leaves are to Thai cuisine. These quintessential Thai ingredients are the very basics of the Thai culinary scene and come together to create a masterstroke, all the while balancing their sweet, sour, savoury, salty and umami elements, blending together to create a gastronomical experience that is both complex and flavourful.
All these flavours swirled in my mind as I landed in Thailand’s Krabi. Navigating the winding roads from the Krabi airport to the hotel, the first pitstop we made was at a roadside stall for freshly sliced coconuts to quench our thirst with coconut water. A dense mangrove forest in the background, the sounds of waves softly resounding from just across the road and the sweet taste of fresh coconut water — heaven.
As we passed through the narrow alleys, the town prepared for the post-sunset display and came to life with tables being set by street vendors for a street food market — the beating heart of Thailand’s culinary scene. Our eyes were glued to the mango sticky rice, Pad Thai noodles, chicken satay and som tum (papaya salad) being showcased on wooden carts as we cruised to our final destination.
When dinnertime arrived, our party of six was well prepared, having done our research before arriving in the beach town.
The Hilltop Ao Nang was about a 10 to 15-minute drive from our beachside hotel. Though the eatery offers a shuttle to and from hotels, we preferred to hire a van instead to be free of any time limitations. Visiting The Hilltop was something like visiting Monal at Pir Sohawa. Perched atop the hills, it was a steep ride to the top but once at the spot, the first look worked as a massage, loosening the tangled knots and relieving the body of the day’s fatigue.
The panoramic view of the bay and the sunset from the garden was both breathtaking and refreshing. In fact, it was difficult to discern whether the 200-plus seats at the eatery were for the food or for the spectacular view.
When we sat down and were finally able to tear our gaze from the view, we turned our attention to the rather extensive menu and spent five minutes narrowing down our order. We had already decided to go crazy on the seafood during our stay so our order was a no-brainer — tom yum soup for everyone, prawn salad in a taro pasty basket, deep-fried sea bass with sweet and chilli sauce, stir fried shrimps with bitter beans and shrimp paste, roasted duck red curry and traditional Southern Thai yellow curry with prawns.
Presentation is key in Thai gastronomy with dishes often embellished with intricate garnishes and served in beautiful traditional dishes, making it as much a feast for the eyes as well as the palate.
On to the food! The pièce de résistance in the tom yum soup was its broth. Deceptively simple in appearance, a single taste and a symphony of flavours erupted. With fragrant fresh herbs and spices in the form of kaffir lime leaves, galangal and lemongrass, as well as mushrooms and tomato chunks, the broth was definitely crowded. The prawns were succulent, the mushrooms rightly moist and the broth well balanced — both the texture and flavour of the dish were in absolute harmony.
The crispy, deep-fried fish fillet was decorated with deep fried garlic, shallots, lime leaves, and basil. The combination of these ingredients created a riot of flavour with every bite, but that riot was soon quelled with the accompanying sweet chilli sauce. It was difficult to peek deep into the golden fried sea bass but the taste made up for everything we couldn’t see. It was undoubtedly one of the hottest items at The Hilltop.
The other orders passed with flying colours and with bellies full and tastebuds happy, it was time to call it a night.
The highlight of our stint in Koh Samui was dinner at a very famous eatery — Coco Tams in Fisherman’s Village, Bophut Beach. It’s a very chic joint with a separate café, a bar and a fine dining restaurant all in one row. Its claim to fame is not only the location on the beach but also its spectacular fire show after sunset paired with a musical extravaganza.
There was mad dash for the entrance as we arrived at 7pm to try our luck to get in without a reservation. The server ushered us past the bar, and pool tables as we took in the all-wooden furniture layout. As we snaked through the walkways, it was easy to peek into the open live kitchen.
Fresh pizza dough was being tossed about, ready to be plunged into the wood-fire oven, bruschetta and salads were being given the last touch, calamari was being fished out of the wok and cocktails were making rounds in the café area. We had to climb down to the beach, where our waiter ushered us onto a patio, though we would have preferred to dine at the tables with the beanbag seating.
When in Koh Samui do not settle for an ordinary feast on the beachfront — net fresh prawns are a must have. Masterfully cooked in a sweet and tangy tamarind sauce and pan fried with chilli and salt, it was epicurean excellence for any food aficionado seeking scrumptious sophistication.
The roasted beetroot salad with walnuts and ricotta was no doubt the star from the antipasti pages. Glazed in balsamic, it was a loving marriage of walnuts and beetroot slices. It was priced around Rs2,500 when converted, which is about the same as any Pakistani fine dining restaurant. It would have been sinful not to order a pizza at Coco Tams, especially when it was love at first sight.
There were an array of pizzas to pick from but margherita was the safest bet. Tomato, basil and extra virgin olive oil — the pizza was heavenly. With its crust, burnt edges and the taste of cheese, it was nothing short of a flavour bomb in your mouth. The medium was priced at Rs2,500 and the regular at Rs3,500. The size and the portions did not, however, do justice to the price tag but the ambience was well worth it.
Small wooden tables embedded deep in the sand with perfumed candles in glass vases balancing on them, encompassed by a clear sky with a constellation of stars to gaze at above. The picturesque background, the music, the fire show and the food was well worth the 40-minute wait.
This local gem with an extensive menu was a temple of gastronomy. It is a must visit where the chefs, bartenders and even servers lighten up your mood with impeccable service, culinary fusion and a symphony of flavourful dishes that have a hint of new twists — sweet, sour and salty notes for a truly refreshing treat.
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