Balenciaga sacks casting agency over 'sadistic' abuse of models

The label sent an apology to 150 women over the incident and said it was making 'radical changes' to the casting process

AFP

02 Mar, 2017

Fashion brand Balenciaga said on Wednesday it had sacked its casting agency amid a furore over the “sadistic” mistreatment of models at Paris fashion week.

The label, the hottest on the Paris catwalk, said it had sent a written apology to the 150 women who were forced to wait in a cramped stairwell for three hours at the casting for its upcoming show on Sunday.

Some were shut inside in the dark while the casting directors went off for lunch, according to James Scully, a US casting director who took to Instagram to brand their treatment as “sadistic and cruel”.

So true to my promise at #bofvoices that I would be a voice for any models, agents or all who see things wrong with this business I'm disappointed to come to Paris and hear that the usual suspects are up to the same tricks. I was very disturbed to hear from a number of girls this morning that yesterday at the Balenciaga casting Madia & Ramy (serial abusers) held a casting in which they made over 150 girls wait in a stairwell told them they would have to stay over 3 hours to be seen and not to leave. In their usual fashion they shut the door went to lunch and turned off the lights, to the stairs leaving every girl with only the lights of their phones to see. Not only was this sadistic and cruel it was dangerous and left more than a few of the girls I spoke with traumatized. Most of the girls have asked to have their options for Balenciaga cancelled as well as Hermes and Ellie Saab who they also cast for because they refuse to be treated like animals. Balenciaga part of Kering it is a public company and these houses need to know what the people they hire are doing on their behalf before a well deserved law suit comes their way. On top of that I have heard from several agents, some of whom are black that they have received mandate from Lanvin that they do not want to be presented with women of color. And another big house is trying to sneak 15 year olds into paris! It's inconceivable to me that people have no regard for human decency or the lives and feelings of these girls, especially when too too many of these models are under the age of 18 and clearly not equipped to be here but god forbid well sacrifice anything or anyone for an exclusive right? If this behavior continues it's gonna be a long cold week in paris. Please keep sharing your stories with me and I will continue to to share them for you. It seems to be the only way we can force change and give the power back to you models and agents where it rightfully belongs. And I encourage any and all to share this post #watchthisspace

A post shared by james scully (@jamespscully) on Feb 27, 2017 at 10:40am PST

He claimed the directors involved were “serial abusers”. “In their usual fashion they shut the door, went to lunch and turned off the lights to the stairs leaving every girl with only the lights of their phones to see,” he added. “Not only was this sadistic and cruel it was dangerous and left more than a few of the girls I spoke with traumatised.”

Scully also accused a major Paris fashion house, which he did not name, of trying to “sneak in” 15-year-old models for its show. “It’s inconceivable to me that people have no regard for human decency or the lives and feelings of these girls, especially when too, too many of these models are under the age of 18 and clearly not equipped to be here.”

Balenciaga confirmed to AFP it was “making radical changes to the casting process” after the incident, “including discontinuing the relationship with the current casting agency”.

“Balenciaga took notice of issues with the model castings carried out on that day [February 26]. The house reacted immediately,” a statement added. “Balenciaga condemns this incident and will continue to be deeply committed to ensure the most respectful working conditions for the models.”

Scully, whose post garnered support from supermodels Joan Smalls, Helena Christensen and Carolyn Murphy, also accused the French label Lanvin of discrimination against black models. “I have heard from several agents, some of whom are black, that they have received [a] mandate from Lanvin that they do not want to be presented with women of colour,” he wrote.

But the brand’s designer Bouchra Jarrar hit back strongly after showing her autumn-winter collection on Wednesday.

“They insult the couture houses with their accusations of racism,” she said. “What are they talking about?” said the French designer, whose family comes from Morocco.

“Our dressing room is full of girls from every origin. In fact, there is not a single French person in it.” Two black models walked in her show, the same number as in her debut collection last year for the label, which is owned by Taiwanese businesswoman Shaw-Lan Wang.

“I want to talk about my creativity, I am not going to justify that I like [to use] all types of girls [in my shows],” Jarrar added.

Originally published in Dawn, March 2nd, 2017