Inside PLBW 2015 Day 1: Elan steals the show while Republic fizzles

Day 1 came to a close with only a few collections standing out and others leaving much to be desired
Published 18 Sep, 2015 09:29am

With each passing year, PFDC L’Oréal Paris Bridal Week (PLBW) gets stronger as a platform. With fewer time delays and a tighter schedule, the show has become convenient and enjoyable for all.

Day 1 came to a close with only a few collections standing out and others leaving much to be desired.

Karma Red

Karma has been in the business for a very long time and has a specific target market. So imagine how shocked we were last night when the fit of one of the outfits was so off that the model's bra was showing!

One does not expect it from a design house that has been in the business that many years. Overall, the collection emulated a sleeker silhouette with tapered palazzos and shorter hemlines, in shades of reds and pinks, along with her signature mehndi outfits.

Models present creations by Pakistani designer Karma Red on the first day of the Pakistan Fashion Design Council (PFDC) L'Oreal Paris Bridal Week in Lahore—AFP
Models present creations by Pakistani designer Karma Red on the first day of the Pakistan Fashion Design Council (PFDC) L'Oreal Paris Bridal Week in Lahore—AFP

Karma Red focused more on the trousseau, understanding that more than the bride, the market is now wide open for wedding attendees who are constantly looking for something different to buy and wear. In the embellishment department, what stood out in the collection was the incorporation of chevron beading.

Karma opted for brighter colours
Karma opted for brighter colours

Ali Xeeshan:

To bring the much needed drama to PLBW is something the audience has come to expect from Ali Xeeshan and he did just that!

While the designer played it safer this year with a more commercial collection, he did include some of his more experimental pieces also that we all love.

Ali Xeeshan thinks outside the box but still keeps it wearable—AFP
Ali Xeeshan thinks outside the box but still keeps it wearable—AFP

What stood out in Xeeshan's collection was the intricate gota embellishment that Xeeshan is known for. And with a wider range to showcase, Xeeshan has consistency throughout the collection.

From gorgeous chaddars to his distressed gota infused fabric, layered with embellished overcoats, his collection titled 'Toofan' played with layering separates that made the whole collection come together.

While the appliquéd gota on organza capes looked fantastic, the organza collars styled over some of the gowns killed the look of the outfit.

Meesha Shafi walks as the showstopper for Xeeshan—AFP
Meesha Shafi walks as the showstopper for Xeeshan—AFP

Sania Maskatiya:

What's admirable about Sania is that this PLBW, she experimented with her design aesthetic; the structured embellishments were refreshing to see amongst all the florals.

She mixes it up and evolves past her old collections, bringing something very new to the table that can still be considered a part of the Sania Maskatiya repertoire.

It might be hot in the country but velvet isn't going anywhere!
It might be hot in the country but velvet isn't going anywhere!

While last year's Ara catered to a wider range of audience, her present collection will attract the fashion forward and those wanting to make a statement. One thing that Maskatiya confirms is that velvet is here to stay!

The collection had a wide array of silhouettes including short capes, drain pipe pants, higher side slits and scalloped details. Maskatiya uses a richer color palette with hues of maroons, bright pinks and golds, while infusing sparkle with her embroidery and also focused on separates.

While overall the collection was cohesive and strong, some of the styling fell short and pulled the collection down.


Bank Al Falah Rising Talent is the one segment that has everyone excited each year as it brings out the latest crop of designers and their creativity.

These debutantes are:

Maheen Taseer:

The new designer on the block presented her capsule collection titled 'Valiant', dedicated to her husband, Shahbaz Taseer.

Taseer didn't just stick to one colour palette; she experimented with a range of hues
Taseer didn't just stick to one colour palette; she experimented with a range of hues

Taseer used various different mediums and techniques to showcase what all she has to offer. Dusty pink paired with silver and deep maroon paired with deep metallics stood out. The velvet and metallic jamavar chaddar paired with the lehnga choli was the stand out piece in the collection. While Taseer shows her strengths the overall collection was not cohesive.

Zarmisha Dar:

Zarmish could have been more experimental. — Publicity photo
Zarmish could have been more experimental. — Publicity photo

Dar presented a very typical collection with nothing new to offer. Staying in the pastels colour palette, she used gota and crystals to embellish her outfits. It would have been great to see the young designer experiment a little more.

Faiza Saqlain:

Accessories shined above everything. — Publicity photo
Accessories shined above everything. — Publicity photo

The new designer showcased a very literal adaptation of the Elizabethan era, with high collars and net arm gloves. While the collection was collected, what shined most was the accessories — the details on the shoes and the cutwork wooden bags were strong on their own but were lost in translation.

Hamza Bokhari:

Hamza's selection of jewellery was on point. — Publicity photo
Hamza's selection of jewellery was on point. — Publicity photo

We had high hopes for Bokhari and he did not disappoint. He had one of the more structurally sound collections with thought put into the styling and the accessories; the jewellery was on point!

Republic:

Rosa was a reflection of Elan and Faraz Manan's earlier collections. — Publicity photo
Rosa was a reflection of Elan and Faraz Manan's earlier collections. — Publicity photo

Sana Omer for Republic's Rosa was deeply inspired by Elan from 3 years ago with motifs, delicate detailing and silhouettes taken from Faraz Manan's recent collection earlier this year.

Men's collection failed to impress. — Publicity photo
Men's collection failed to impress. — Publicity photo

The collection was a blatant marriage of the two brands.The design house is known for its immaculate cuts and designing when it comes to menswear fashion and it would be advisable if they stuck to that.

Elan:

The Jasmine Court reigned the night with its beautiful attention to detail and impeccable structure. It brought to the PLBW stage the glamour, beauty and elegance it was crying out for.

Elan's princely dresses stood out among the rest. —  Publicity Photo
Elan's princely dresses stood out among the rest. — Publicity Photo

Known for her crystal sprinkling, Elan reinvents its' look with Jasmine Court. Paired with the beautiful jewellery by Sherezad Rahimtoola, the collection came together beautifully. While the design house explores the era of the princely states, it doesn't limit its silhouettes and detailing to that era. If the royal courts existed today, the outfits could very well fit there. From dhoti pants to voluminous lehngas, this revamped looked has given Elan a fresh new veneer.