The Ala Khutah project allows visitors retrace the Prophet’s migration from Makkah to Madina
The journey starts at the historic Cave of Thawr and ends at the Quba Mosque.
Pages and pages have been written about the gobsmacking beauty of Gilgit-Baltistan’s crown jewels: Hunza and Skardu. They’re also the destinations brave mountaineers and nature junkies head to. But there’s also another aspect to this region: quiet luxury.
You may have come across this term in the context of fashion; it can be described as timelessness, minimalism, refined, thoughtful, low-key, and high-quality. In GB, this luxury is twofold: it has to do with everything that God created in this naturally blessed region and that man built in the name of tourism.
Simply put, quiet luxury in GB’s context is to have the time to take in its striking natural beauty and serenity, that too from an equally striking setting.
As the hospitality industry grows in these areas, many resorts, local-run home stays and boutique hotels are cropping up for getaways and retreats ranging from culinary to wellness that don’t require you to sell your kidney.
The options here have the potential to dim the appeal of international destinations, particularly in this economy.
However, let me acknowledge that there is one word closely associated with quiet luxury that I left out for GB: effortless. Seeing the beauty may take as little effort as simply opening your eyes but reaching it is another story. Limited air options, long and sometimes risky road routes, unpredictable weather conditions – these are just some of the issues one has to take into account when planning these trips. It also requires understanding that tourism on this side of the country is still very new and building proper infrastructure in a territory with complex landscapes, and high-altitude locations — sometimes numbering in thousands such as Basho Valley in Skardu at 11,800 feet — will take time.
The argument I’ll make here is that most travel requires effort of some kind; some of us travel across the world with long layovers, go through visa hassles, and spend more than we save just for a view from a plush setting. Call it a resort holiday, a spa getaway or a zen retreat, the purpose of such trips is to immerse yourself in an alternate reality that breaks away from daily routines. So while you may have to factor in last-minute changes, trust that GB offers just that — a chance to free your mind of to-do lists and your phone of WiFi connections (you’ll only want it for the camera).
Log entry: In both my visits this year, the locals spoke of how tourism financially supports households across the districts, but in 2025, this flow of income was affected by the Pakistan-India tensions in May and then catastrophic natural calamities in parts of GB in August. “We want people to come, we want them to understand how to support us even in tough times,” said a resident of Skardu, adding that visitors should trust locals with their safety and listen to their guidance. When I asked about concerns regarding mushrooming hotels, they talked more about the hope that they’ll create opportunities for the people of the areas. However, in multiple conversations, they stressed how tourists needed to show more respect towards the place and its people. “Whether you want to open a hotel or stay in one, you have to adopt our way of life, don’t impose yours on us,” said a Hunza guide, his words echoed by many others.
GB has 10 districts and I visited six of them this year over two trips: Gilgit, Hunza, Nagar, Skardu, Ghanche, and Shigar. Apart from Nagar, which we visited for the picturesque Hoper Valley (9,000 feet) where you’re driving through the mountains amid higher neighbouring peaks to reach the cherry blossoms and Hoper Glacier, I spent at least a night in the other five. There are many companies curating these trips for visitors (shoutout to GoZayaan for planning mine) that offer competitive packages covering accommodations, flights, local travel and sudden changes to itineraries.
There are many tempting accommodation options in GB; this travelogue talks of places where I stayed and would stay again. They all came with stunning views — some by design, all by simply the privilege of existing in a location where all one has to do is look up to be awestruck.
It may not seem like a good sign to start with a hotel chain, but these are not your typical showily expensive 5-star properties: we’re talking forts and palaces steeped in history turned into classy accommodations.
There’s the 11th century Altit Fort in the former princely state of Hunza where the cottages at the edge of the gardens put you in the lap of the valley; Shigar Fort where you can stay in the 17th century palace of the Raja; and the majestic Khaplu Palace in Ghanche which 200 years later still exudes grace worthy of the label “royal” — all managed by Serena Hotels.
From amenities to service to the views, these sites speak luxury, not scream it. Part of the Aga Khan Fund for Economic Development, the Serena chain has aided in the renovation of these historic sites, promoting local culture and crafts, and providing employment for the community.
When you enter Shigar from Skardu you do so via a switchback road that goes up and down and twists around. You’ll have barely just taken in the colossal dunes of Sarfaranga Desert when golden peaks beautifully enveloped in the clouds greet you and then another turn opens an even more expansive view with mountains, patches of green and riverbeds as you drive through to reach your destination: Dera Lamsa in Lamsa village.
The resort, facing the Shigar River, is the perfect spot to gaze at the views, with its best feature being the private terraces, which are just that — private, not to mention spacious. They come with panoramic views that, without exaggeration, made me stop typing and close my eyes to relive them.
The evenings in Lamsa are velvety blue and luminous. The stars light up the sky while halo-like light radiates from small settlements in the distance.
The resort itself is still new, only in its second year and hasn’t seen many visitors in 2025 due to the war hysteria and then the flood scare, as one of the people involved in running the place told me. There’s also a gorgeous Heritage Villa, which feels more like a resort than the rooms do but isn’t available throughout the year, at least up till the point when we visited. Some teething issues aside, it’s the sort of place that could easily become your go-to for every trip to Shigar.
Watch the sunrise — see the pink hues turn golden then white as the clouds descend. It’s a live nature show that happens every morning and is well worth that alarm going off.
Log entry: Don’t get sucked into the ‘Hunza versus Skardu’ debate — it’s a moot point because the two, which are similar in theory, are very different places and experiences. Also, familiarise yourself with the geography of the region because while the guides and other locals are very nice and eager to share information, they’ll appreciate that we don’t consider all districts of Skardu as Skardu; they take pride in where they come from and how individually unique each place is — like in the case of our guide in Baltistan who was from Shigar. Our guide in Hunza was from Ganish village and took us around to show what makes it special, later also inviting us to his home for dinner with his family. Both places have beautiful languages, memorable food and music that can travel with you, so really, don’t spend time on comparisons.
Rule 1 of planning trips to GB: plan for the unexpected. Our original itinerary said glamping in Deosai — now banned — but the roads led to Katpana Desert as the ones to the former were blocked due to a landslide. There’s not much to complain about the unexpected when the trade-off is a cold desert, also referred to as ‘desert of the stars’, with a lush green namesake lake that is so still and mirror-like that you’d think the reflection of the mountains and clouds was painted on top of the waterbody.
Glamping — glamorous camping — is still relatively new to Pakistan and Glamp Pakistan is among the most prominent names in this space.
We stayed a night in the ‘New Safari Gold’ glamp that includes rustic and tastefully colourful interior, ample furniture, a private outdoor space (with a bonfire pit and a swing) overlooking the lake, and a chic bathroom that could compete with some of the finest hotels in the business.
The food was very good, and the service was exceptional. What else can you really ask for in the middle of a desert?
Just lay on the sand when night comes, otherwise you’ll have a stiff neck from looking up constantly at the stars — and you will be looking constantly at the sky full of stars (I’d like to think Katpana is what Coldplay was singing about when they wrote ‘A Sky Full of Stars’).
Homestays are family-run accommodations, so you know you’re bound to get good food — and that was just the case with Lavender Cottage and Guest House in central Skardu. I love dumplings; ‘mamtus’, the local version in GB, was the first meal on my first trip and they were delicious.
Fast-forward to the second trip’s last night and I had them again (after having some more along the course of both visits) at Lavender Cottage and believe me when I tell you that they were unequivocally the best. My friend and I also had the ’tresspi balay’, a local soup made with beef stock, beef chunks and homemade noodles — so good (and generous!) that we kept filling our bowls. The rooms were comfortable and clean, and the gardens were filled to the brim with flowers.
The hospitality was warm and personalised, just like at Riverdale Resort in Gilgit. Riverdale gives you the feel of a modern tree house, right next to the gushing streams flowing into the Gilgit River. Our room was on the bank of the river and its adjoining terrace extended over the waters. While they call themselves a resort, I’d categorise them as a homestay, run by a gentle man named Hadi who’s been entrusted by the family that owns it.
Hadi was the ideal concierge; from suggesting the best spot for breakfast on a property filled with scenic seating to bringing a tray of the local Tumuro tea just as you’re thinking of it. The grounds are beautifully kept, the rooms tastefully decorated and the location away from the bustle of Gilgit.
If you like absolute silence for sleeping, then you’ll need noise-cancelling headphones at Riverdale as the river won’t quiet down. Also, don’t fuss if some things take long or if the amenities aren’t glamorous; these are small enterprises that pride themselves on making your visit feel personal, not pristine.
While all the stays were researched and selected ahead of time, Byarsa was booked on the way to it — flights from Gilgit stopped during the India-Pakistan “will they, won’t they” period, so my friend and I had to take the flight from Skardu while airspace was still open. Unexpected changes is one thing but possibly having to stay for an unknown period while war breaks out is another, so needless to say the room was booked amid some anxiety for the sole purpose of spending one night.
Byarsa, on the Lower Kachura Shangrila Road, turned out to be a rustic, suave glass-panelled sanctuary stocked with luxe Honey, I’m Home toiletries. They also call themselves an eco-friendly property, said to be working with the local government to form a proper waste disposal system in the area.
The boutique hotel on that rainy, uncertain day felt like a warm and cosy hunting lodge, the kind that smoothly slides under the modern luxury label, much like the art and wellness resort Ambiance in Hunza. Located in Aliabad, it has comfortable and tasteful rooms but the architects and designers knew what elevation offers: views, views and views.
Speaking of spaces designed solely to give you the feeling of being in the mountains without actually being IN the mountains, Ambiance Resort has outdoor decks for dining, a bridge connecting its buildings and room balconies overlooking the Karakoram Range.
The hotel also has a few trekking paths for the days you don’t feel like going into town. It prides itself on its art collection and you’ll see works from “over 80 young Pakistani artists”, as the brand says, across the property, with its in-house dining venue named Art Café. Easily one of my most colourful stays, the lobby itself gives the impression of a contemporary art gallery.
Book the massage at Ambiance’s Resonance Spa. Nevermind that finding a spa in the middle of the mountains after long drives and tiring trials (that seemingly unassuming walk back from Husseini Bridge in Hunza comes to mind) feels like the ultimate luxury, the massage itself was top notch. They’re not the cheapest treatments but worth splurging for a spacation.
As mentioned, much has been said about the beauty of these places, so I’ll leave it at this: words, pictures and even the best Instagram reels can’t capture what unfolds in front of you when you visit — whether it’s the Passu Cones coming into full view in Hunza or the otherworldly landscape of Shigar as you enter it — and the journeys to these destinations give you the gift of time, so use it well.
Log entry: Valleys in Gilgit-Baltistan are plenty but not all easy to get to; the route to Basho Valley has some patches of proper roads, the other times you’re just on uneven terrains that are so narrow that the thought of a vehicle coming from the other side makes you rethink your journey.
I’m pretty sure my insides moved a little, given the bumps experienced on the rutted route, strongly recommended to be only undertaken in a jeep. The drive is worth all the bumps and bruises for the wondrous sights you’ll pass, including the glacier streams below (the faint-hearted, however, should not peek at them during the drive up).
Hoper is also a narrow and rough drive (also not one for the faint-hearted — or those who believe in railings) but less adventurous than Basho and thus, kinder to your body. And then there’s Sok Valley in Skardu, the route to which isn’t as memorable but ranks highest in my books as a destination among the three, foremost for its serenity. It’s the kind of place where hours can go by listening to the river, watching its colour change, and marvelling at God’s artistry that made the peaks surrounding the valley all so distinct.
All photos and videos by the author