This London exhibit means big bucks for Pakistani fashion brands like Elan and Shehla Chatoor

Why was there so much social media buzz about the Aashni + co wedding show that took place in London over the past weekend?

For one, the exhibit boasted Indian designer royalty – Saybyasachi Mukherjee, Tarun Tahiliani, Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla, Anamika Khanna, Gaurav Gupta and Shantanu and Nikhil, among others – are regulars at the show and they were part of this year’s edition.

On the local front, the designer lineup also featured two top bridal-wear brands: Elan and Shehla Chatoor. The pictures they posted of their crowded exhibit halls had Pakistani social media cheering.

But one may wonder what the big deal is. Pakistani designers take part in international events all the time.

However, this was not a government-funded event created in order to pitch our erstwhile ‘soft image’ or one of the many hit-and-miss 'Pakistan Fashion Weeks' splattered across the globe. Aashni + co has managed to build quite a reputation for the top-tier designers it enlists to be part of its wedding show and is apparently a go-to destination for people living within or near London, with a big fat wedding in the horizon.

"I am very selective about who I allow into this event,” says Aashni Shah, the founder and creative director of the brand. “Every single piece exhibited at the show has to meet my approval.”

The business potential, as well as the cross-border designer clout flying in for the show, were the main factors that made Shehla Chatoor and Elan – brands that are openly picky about where they showcase their work – decide to be part of the show.

“It’s not easy carrying so many heavily embellished bridal ensembles all the way to London and of course, there’s a participating fee,” says designer Khadijah Shah, whose Elan has featured in the show for two consecutive years now, “but most of the people that come in are genuinely interested in buying. Most designers from the subcontinent, including myself, don’t have a store in London so a well-publicised, well-attended event like this makes a lot of sense.”

Designers – especially the successful ones – can be busy people and it is sometimes difficult for them to leave their work and fly out for a show. At the Swarovski Sparkling Couture Infinity event in Dubai last year, for instance, the Indian contingent had merely sent in their clothes for the display without bothering to come themselves. At Aashni + co, though, most of the participants were present through the day.

“Designers want to be there and interact with people because it really is a great business opportunity,” points out Khadijah. “Each brand has a boutique of its own in a separate room and most of the designers were there in their particular rooms. Elan did very well. I had taken wedding formals that could be purchased off the rack as well as some of the heavy duty embellished pieces that could be ordered.”

Shehla Chatoor, meanwhile, took designs that could be ordered and customised. “It’s good to be on a well-recognised platform like this. I interacted with customers who had been buying from me for ages via social media but who I had never personally met. There were people who drifted through the exhibits but there were so many more who were serious buyers, people who appreciated the hand embroideries that I am so passionate about and that are an indelible part of my vision.”

Given these glowing reviews, why haven’t more Pakistani designers featured in the Aashni + co entourage? Apparently, not everyone can take part in the show and a stringent selection process vets out the best from the second best.

“Only three Pakistani labels have showcased with us so far and they are Faraz Manan, Elan and Shehla Chatoor. It’s just that I am very selective about who I allow into this event,” explains Aashni Shah, the founder and creative director of the brand. “Every single piece that is exhibited at the show or even on our e-store has to meet my approval.”

And while political conflict may make direct cross-border trade impossible, exhibits like Aashni + co provide a suitable middle ground for fashion aficionados to observe designs up close and make purchases.

“Thanks to Instagram, we now have access to Pakistani fashion and the work is different from that of Indian designers, in terms of silhouette, colour and craft,” says Aashni. “At the same time, the designs are completely applicable to different parts of the subcontinent. The clientele that comes to the exhibit is very diverse and they enjoy the distinctive aesthetics that are there, presented by the top brands in India and also, some of the best from Pakistan.”