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PSFW Day2: Mahgul shines, Ali Xeeshan horses around, Karma brings disco back

Top trends? Full sequined looks, animal motifs, more sportswear, more sneakers
12 Mar, 2016

Did the weather foretell what we'd see on the runway last night?

The heavens opened up above PSFW's show on day 2, blanketing Lahore with rain. After fashionable people hopped, skipped and jumped across puddles to make their way inside the venue they were presented with collections that mirrored meteorological conditions: dark, dramatic statements by Ali Xeeshan, sequins that flashed like lightning by Karma. Against this background it was unsurprising when some collections floundered, even though we'd held onto our best hopes that they wouldn't.

Nomi Ansari

Nomi Ansari kicked off the night with 'Joyride,' which, judging by the previews, promised to be a riot of colour and vibrant prints.

Short, bright peplum dresses opened the show, setting the tone for what followed: kitschy prints featuring everything from spectacle-wearing puppies to scooters, applique on denim.

Nomi Ansari sent down models clad in kitschy prints
Nomi Ansari sent down models clad in kitschy prints

Surprisingly, what worked best in the entire collection was the menswear. Nomi dressed the men in blazers and, occasionally, matching shirts or waistcoats, that were cut close to the body and tailored very well, which added an edge of sophistication to what would otherwise have been an over-the-top outfit. A slim denim-on-denim look also worked well. The look was mechanic-chic -- instead of oil splatters you had fun applique.

The menswear was the highlight of Nomi's collection
The menswear was the highlight of Nomi's collection

On the women, a high-waisted skirt was a long-sleeved purple top's saving grace and sleeveless blue sheath dress stood out. If you picked apart each look you'd be able to find at least one item that you could incorporate into your wardrobe.

The collection's showstoppers were Nomi's signature lenghas worn atop voluminous can-can skirts. Definitely something we'll see at mehndis in the coming months.

Nomi stuck to his signature voluminuous lenghas for the showstopper
Nomi stuck to his signature voluminuous lenghas for the showstopper

Ali Xeeshan

Ali Xeeshan opened his 'Voodoo Collection' with a dark, cryptic short video starring himself along with Rabia Butt, Hasnain Lehri and more.

Next came piece in muted tones: lots of black, grey and white with pops of neon green. An intricate black and white print repeated itself in several items. You could spot sportswear's influence peeping through. Models wore white sneakers in the few instances they weren't wearing black heels (or walking the ramp barefoot). Jog-pants and embellished sweatshirts made appearances too.

In Voodoo Collection, Ali Xeeshan created drama in a monochrome palette
In Voodoo Collection, Ali Xeeshan created drama in a monochrome palette

This tight colour scheme tied together pieces that wouldn't necessarily have cohered otherwise, like long military-style coats on the men that rubbed shoulders with fully sequined silver dresses on the women, and for this the designer deserves a nod. These sequined dresses were a big win, particularly the slouchy, long-length gown on Rabia Butt.

Standout pieces from the collection
Standout pieces from the collection

Ali Xeeshan brought his signature drama to the ramp by resting lightweight frames of horses and ships on models' shoulders as a showstopper. While this didn't add much to the collection by way of styling or sartorial savvy it was a welcome statement and conversation piece, much like his uni-horned headgear.

Ali Xeeshan's showstoppers sported lightweight frames of horses and ships
Ali Xeeshan's showstoppers sported lightweight frames of horses and ships

Sania Maskatiya

Sania Maskatiya's most recent runway collection featured heavily structured tops in solid colours and was a hit in terms of styling and cohesion.

Sania Maskatiya introduced feminine flutter to last year's boxy silhouettes
Sania Maskatiya introduced feminine flutter to last year's boxy silhouettes

Last night's showcase, titled ‘Décorer,’ retained aspects of that boxiness even as it added more traditionally 'feminine' flutter to the mix via trailing asymmetrical tops, flowy bootcut pants and draped dhoti pants.

Standout looks from 'Décorer'
Standout looks from 'Décorer'

Sania's attention to detail shone here. High-low shirts were impeccably lined in black and white fabric, meaning that the inside of a top was often just as eye-catching as the outside. Stand-out pieces included a jacket lined in white over dhoti pants worn by Amna Babar and a lime green asymmetrical shirt that topped simple white pants.

Mahgul

Known as a designer who marries precise detailing with fresh, youthful cuts Mahgul more than exceeded expectations last night. She showed a collection titled 'The Indus Society' from her ORO line that appeared to draw inspiration from varied sources: fierce women, water and associated motifs, sportswear.

What kept the collection from appearing disjointed was that Mahgul presented her looks in sets -- the first few looks were very modern nomad, grounded by decorated white sneakers and backpacks and large totes, whereas the looks that followed were more feminine.

Mahgul scored major points with the carefully considered accessories
Mahgul scored major points with the carefully considered accessories

Mahgul's collection was a visual treat. Every element she presented was considered, from the shoes (notable: a pair of bright lace-up sandals that extended up the calf) to the bags (backpacks, large totes with motifs on them, a clutch shaped like a fish). She's worked with Zohra Rahman on the jewellery too, which was incredibly detailed seen up close but unfortunately not very visible on the ramp given the its vastness.

Mahgul's worked jog-pants stood out
Mahgul's worked jog-pants stood out

Stand-out pieces included her worked jog-pants, a quilted waistcoat and backless tops anchored in place by nothing more than a decorative fish-bone climbing up the spine.

All in all it was a collection that blew other presentations by more experienced designers out of the water.

Nickie Nina

Duo Nickie and Nina presented a collection influenced by matadors, and of course the colour of the day was a deep plum.

The matador-inspired collection left much to be desired
The matador-inspired collection left much to be desired

Known for their heavily worked formal wear, the team at Nickie Nina struggled to present wearable, interesting pret. With an emphasis on heavy, thick embroidery, floral motifs and sheer fabrics the collection didn't bring any innovation to the table.

Karma Pink

The night ended on a high note as Maheen Kardar's Karma revived Studio 54.

Bling dominated Karma Pink's collection
Bling dominated Karma Pink's collection

Flash and bling were abound. Three stand-out looks in sequins opened the show and a sweatshirt honouring David Bowie made sure no one missed the rock n roll mood dominating the showcase.

Comments

Mrs. Phannay Khan Mar 12, 2016 08:24pm
I have never seen any woman or man wearing such clothes out on the street in Pakistan
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Skeptic Mar 12, 2016 09:56pm
Oh my lord! What century are these people from? Or more like which universe!?
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Goga Nalaik Mar 13, 2016 04:15am
This is shining Pakistan...
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Mehkan Mar 13, 2016 04:37am
Loved the collections. Mahgul's jog pants, are they available to purchase? I loved the "tiger" bag! Pakistani designers have so much potential. Love it!
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cat Mar 13, 2016 08:09am
@Mrs. Phannay Khan Its not about wearing this. That's ridiculous ..... No one would.....Its about inspiration. New Ideas. Mix Match..... And taking what you like. Besides some of them are Fashion forward as it is called........And some of the very rich may wear one or two of these out fits.....The stores are simply selling what they like and sell.........It's choice to see what you like..... At lest in the West its like that.
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Mahmood Mar 13, 2016 02:05pm
@cat So what's the practical use of these creations, if no one wants to buy them, much less be seen wearing one of the atrocities??
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