The message behind designers Maria B. and Nomi Ansari’s Palestine-inspired collections

For nearly a year, the world has been held horrorstruck by the unrelenting cruelty inflicted upon Palestine by Israel. Many have responded — through protests on social media and on the streets, by boycotting pro-Israel brands and by putting out statements through art, writing and fashion. Sartorial statements in support of Palestine have particularly been popular, adopted by celebrities at major events in order to make clear their stance on the ongoing atrocities. Quite a few designers around the world have taken inspiration from the Palestinian cause and created capsule lines dedicated to it.

In Pakistan, designer Nomi Ansari did so with a collection featuring houndstooth prints and keffiyeh inspirations launched in February. Launched with an eye-catching campaign, the “Threads of Hope” collection featured long shirts, dupattas, crop tops, jackets, waistcoats, scarves and men’s shirts.

While the Instagram captions introducing the line did not particularly specify the word Palestine, the keffiyeh, Palestine’s official headscarf, was mentioned. It was clear that the collection was inspired by the cause.

Later this year — in May — actor Hania Aamir wore a suit from the collection to the HUM Style Awards. Coming on stage to collect the trophy for Most Stylish Actress — Television, she spoke about Gaza’s plight in her acceptance speech, giving a “huge shout-out to Nomi Ansari” for the “thought-provoking outfit”.

And now, designer Maria B. has come up with a capsule line titled “Palestine Collection”. The collection runs the gamut from T-shirts to two-piece and three-piece lawns. There are prints featuring the black and white keffiyeh, multicoloured houndstooth patterns and the watermelon, the symbol of Palestine’s struggle against Israel.

T-shirts are embroidered with “Falasteen” written in Urdu and with the Palestinian map. There are also accessories — pendants, rings, earrings, bracelets — all featuring watermelons, the Palestinian map and the colours of the Palestinian flag.

These efforts tug at ones heartstrings, but what was in the minds of these designers when they created collections dedicated to Palestine? Yes, they were making a statement declaring their support but were some of the proceeds also going to the cause?

In an Instagram story following the announcement of her new collection, Maria B. stated, “We had been discussing our Falasteen collection for a long time and when we finally got it made, I decided that I couldn’t just make it about profits. So, if I have made a suit that cost us Rs4,000 and we are selling it for Rs6,000, then aside from the profit, the Rs4000 (that went into the making) will also be donated to the cause by my organisation…the entire sales of the collection will go to Falasteen…for everyone who loves Falasteen, you will love this collection because there are small details in it that will remind you of Palestine.”

Nomi Ansari, on the other hand, stated that his main purpose was to raise awareness for the cause. “The collection was created in solidarity with Palestine but I will be honest, the proceeds did not go to Palestine,” said the designer. “It was my way of creating a statement through clothes and I think I succeeded in doing so. The designs were worn everywhere, on red carpets and at major ceremonies. Hania Aamir wore a suit from the collection at the HUM Style Awards because she wanted to extend her support for Palestine on a major platform.”

But could this be construed as cashing in on a cause? “I never considered that,” said Ansari. “I am fortunate enough to be doing very well with my bridal business. The Threads Of Hope collection was a sincere effort on my part and I hope to continue making similar efforts for the Palestinian cause in the future.”

In Maria B.’s case, questions have arisen on social media about how she intends to transfer funds to Palestine given the well-known difficulties in making donations due to restrictions placed on the region. There are a few organisations that have been making significant efforts and managing to transfer funds and even organise trips to Gaza to help the affected people there. Although the designer does not specify, it is possible her business will enlisting the help of these organisations to make sure that the donations legitimately reach Palestinians.

But how does one design a collection inspired by the plight of a nation perpetually in pain? Are there certain aspects that are kept in mind?

“Four of the girls and three of the boys that you see in the shoot are Palestinian,” Maria B told Images. “They inspired me while I designed this collection. I studied the embroidery techniques employed by their grandmothers and incorporated them into the designs. And the keys that you see in the jewellery actually symbolise the keys that they told me their grandmothers had always kept on them. After being thrown out of their homes, they kept their keys with them for years and years in the hope that one day they would return to their land and open the doors to their homes with these keys,” she explained.

“There is a lot of symbolism in the designs and my team and I actually got very emotional while creating this collection. It was a difficult process but anyone who wears these clothes makes a statement in support of Palestine and recognises their heritage and culture.”

When it comes to raising awareness and giving voice to the people of Palestine, every step matters. Maria B. is a high-street heavyweight with multiple outlets across the country and the affordable price points of the Palestine Collection allows a mass clientele to be able to make a statement that is essential in these difficult times.

Ansari, on the other hand, is one of the country’s most coveted couturiers renowned for his meticulous aesthetic and eye for colour and pattern. His “Threads of Hope” is a high fashion line that has made statements at star-studded events and awards ceremonies.

From celebrities to the public, from the exclusive awards soirees to college campuses and cafés, the cause must stay alive from the river to the sea.