The timing was just right, says Kamiar Rokni on joining Sapphire

It hasn’t been a secret that designer Kamiar Rokni has been flitting about the workspace of high-street brand Sapphire.

One had heard, of course, that with designer Mahgul Rashid taking up the position of Creative Director of the brand, the much more experienced Kami – who also happens to be related to Mahgul - was guiding her in some way. According to Kami, though, his guidance extended beyond filial loyalty and was in an official capacity, with him stepping in as Design Director at Sapphire.

“Mahgul’s role is much more extensive because she is the Creative Head,” he elaborates in conversation with Images. “I am an integral part of the team but my concern will primarily be with design. We are working hard but ultimately, it’s more about pushing the brand forward rather than stepping into the limelight ourselves.”

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One remembers Kami dabbling with the high-street before, when he collaborated with Bonanza for their seasonal lawn back in 2012. For a long time since, the designer has professed his penchant for bridal-wear, which he creates under the label, the House of Kamiar Rokni. What prompted him to enter the high street once again?

“The timing was just right. Mahgul is, of course, family and I am a familial kind of guy,” he laughs. “Also, I’ve had umpteen offers from different retail brands in the past but this one really intrigued me.”

Does this mean that the House of Kamiar Rokni will fade into the shadows? The brand has always been in a league of its own, presenting a rich blend of classic, timeless wedding-wear but one hasn’t seen too much of it lately. Tia Noon, one of the partners, has been preoccupied with some personal obligations and in a recent turn of events, the third designer in the trio, Rehan Bashir Jalwana, has announced that he is parting ways with the brand. With Kami, also, having his hands full with the considerable high street demands at Sapphire, will the House of Kamiar Rokni take a backseat?

“No, it is very much alive and I have already started working on our collection for bridal week,” says Kami. “Tia and I have known for some time that Rehan wanted to part ways. He wants to move on towards more lucrative territory and develop his own career in different directions. While we had given him the status of a partner and his contributions to the House of Kamiar Rokni were invaluable, he was always more of a part-time employee. We wish him all the best and we will be cheering for him all the way.”

Coming back to Sapphire, Mahgul and Kami have huge shoes to fill. Sapphire was veritably built from square one by designer Khadijah Shah and with her leaving the brand, the pressure is on her successors to keep drawing in the customers that were enamored with the designs in the past.

Given the mass market’s general aversion to faces on print, are Kami and Mahgul being careful with the designs that go into production? “We are being sensible. But there is not much else that I can say right now. Let the collection come out and you will see,” promises Kami.

The first collection with Mahgul Rashid as Creative Head and Kamiar Rokni as Design Director will be in Sapphire stores this February. We will pass our verdict then!