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Travel back in time and rediscover Lahore's Tabaq Restaurant

Travel back in time and rediscover Lahore's Tabaq Restaurant

Established in 1976 at Lakshmi Chowk, Tabaq continues a long tradition of no-nonsense hospitality.
11 Mar, 2022

No sooner do you enter Tabaq Restaurant, situated in Lahore’s downtown, that you’ll feel yourself immediately transported back in time — to your much younger days, when things were much simpler. Tabaq has a tradition of hospitality that goes back over 45 years.

With no internet or social media, restaurants existed for the sole purpose of serving and relishing good, old-fashioned wholesome meals, rather than being the social hotspot hubs with Wi-Fi that they have become today. When it comes to old-school hospitality, Tabaq has it nailed down.

I still vaguely remember a time in the mid-’80s when a restaurant under the same name also existed on Karachi’s Tariq Road or thereabouts. It has since disappeared, like so many other landmarks and once-popular eateries that dotted the cityscape, such as Khan’s Cafe, Firpo Nihari and Flurry’s Bakery near Hotel Metropole.

The hearty spread
The hearty spread

A few still exist, such as Village Restaurant and Shezan Ampi’s and, whenever nostalgia hits hard, it’s the go-to place for many baby boomers like me. All we can do now is hope and pray that they stay around at least during our lifetime, so that others like me can continue to relive the days of our youth.

Established in 1976, Tabaq Restaurant at Lahore’s famous Lakshmi Chowk, continues a long tradition of no-nonsense hospitality

Tabaq is a no-frills restaurant which is all about the business of food, and a wholesome one at that. It’s food that feeds your soul. When I visited the place, I noticed a middle-aged gentleman and a somewhat restless 12-year-old dining a short distance away from our table.

The gentleman in question clearly seemed to be a regular patron and knew exactly what to order to eat. The kid, obviously oblivious to his father’s emotional connection to the eatery, seemed bored to be in a place with no Wi-Fi and play area.

Ghulam Rasool, the oldest steward at Tabaq Restaurant
Ghulam Rasool, the oldest steward at Tabaq Restaurant

 The father-son duo (I’m assuming that was the relation between them) must be a typically familiar sight for the stewards serving generation upon generation of diners at Tabaq. One such steward is Ghulam Rasool, who has been associated with Tabaq Restaurant since 1977, a year after it opened its doors for business.

 Rasool recommended we try their famous Chicken Steam Roast Chargha (steam-grilled chicken falling off the bone) and, upon his further recommendation, we also placed an order for grilled fish (whole fish grilled to perfection) as well — both of which arrived at our table in absolutely no time at all.

We chased the hearty meal with a choice dessert — steaming-hot gulab jamuns, served with sugar syrup in a clay pot!

While waiting for our meal to arrive, I swept a glance over the floors, tables and chairs that told the tale of numerous customers served, the old-fashioned, crisp, white linen-covered neat work stations and the elaborate woodwork, specially the arch and wooden pillars dividing the dining area into a family room as well.

The dining table and chairs tell a tale as old as time itself
The dining table and chairs tell a tale as old as time itself

A spiral stairway next to the cashier counter led upstairs to another family/ladies sitting area.

At the time we were there, which was a little later than 8pm on a weekend, the dining hall was full with people, immersed in conversation while enjoying the meals served by the stewards, who made it seem all so effortless and streamlined.

There were no inordinate or awkward delays in between the food orders being placed, the arrival of the food, the clearing of the tables, and the food bill payment.

 The comfort level between the stewards and patrons was exemplary. The restaurant ran like a smooth, well-greased machine, something found missing in most modern eateries, where a bond of trust between the server and the served just doesn’t appear to exist.

At Tabaq, it was as if there were an unspoken commitment between the two, and a pledge not to betray each other’s trust, but never uttered in so many words, mind you.

When you choose to dine at Tabaq Restaurant, know that you have been served — not just food but a slice of long-gone time.

Originally published in Dawn, EOS, March 6th, 2022

Comments

Chrís Dăn Mar 11, 2022 12:10pm
Wow. My best memories are attached with Tabaq. Thank you Dawn for bringing Tabaq back in my mind. I am going to visit and eat there with my family on the very next visit:))
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IS Mar 11, 2022 01:21pm
Truly brought back old memories . It was indeed a treat and still I can taste the chargha. With a fine man sitting at counter wearing white Shalwar Kameez with smile to take your order and bill.
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M. Saeed Mar 11, 2022 01:35pm
Before Tabaq, there was a famous Neamat Qadah at Lahori Gate, famous for it's steam roasts and Mutton Korma.
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Pak Khan Mar 11, 2022 01:46pm
Well actually there are still a lot of same old fashioned restaurants one can visit. Waheed, Sabir Nihari, Jans broast, Naubahar Saddar, most Irani and Pathan cafes are still there.
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zeeshan Mar 11, 2022 02:11pm
It was my first trip to Lahore from Peshawar in 1996 along with my Grandfather (NANA) and we were invited to this amazing restaurant by a few Newspaper officials. it was really visit to remember.
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Dr Asim Mar 11, 2022 02:57pm
Tabaq restaurant is not at all that great. I have seen their branch in Canada. Its not the greatest food made.
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Tanvir Khan Mar 11, 2022 03:11pm
I've been to this restaurant once, not at all for vegetarians! Opposite this restaurant is our Lahori culture "Channe ki daal + rice" dhaba at least 60 years old!!! Very delicious!!! If you walk about 15 meters in Abbot Road on the same side, there is another vegetarian dhaba that cooks very tasty and healthy vegetable dishes, with ZERO violence and cruelty to innocent animals!!!
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Chrís Dăn Mar 11, 2022 05:01pm
@Dr Asim I however miss their food in lahore restaurant still and I have made a mental note to visit there with my family again.
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Dr. Salaria, Aamir Ahmad Mar 11, 2022 05:07pm
Great place and excellent food.
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Syed Hasni Mar 11, 2022 05:16pm
Been there done that !
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IS Mar 11, 2022 05:57pm
@M. Saeed sure I do remember that was one of the best restaurant back than. Not far from there , a old man use to sell Chana Bahtura.
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well-wisher Mar 11, 2022 07:47pm
@Dr Asim Where in Canada is Tabaq located. Dr.? I'd like to try.
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Taj Ahmad Mar 11, 2022 08:06pm
Will visit Lahore soon to taste Tabaq foods.
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Syed Hafeez Imran Mar 12, 2022 01:45am
@Dr Asim I do not think that the Tabaq in Canada (In Nevi Centre Mississauga ON) is a branch of Tabaq Lahore I am a Pakistani living in Mississauga and something of a foodie Tabaq Mississauga is again a no frill eatery, the food is not bad, but not outstanding. The dishes are in the mould of traditional Pakistani recipes
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Syed Hafeez Imran Mar 12, 2022 01:47am
@well-wisher it is located in Nevin center on Shspherd Off Dundas street in Mississauga Ontario Canada you can google it
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Furqan Mar 12, 2022 01:31pm
Faisal my dear lad, you activated my old memories but im currently living and working offshore near California. Imagine my urge but keep posting such old time materials. Thank you so very much
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TenJee Mar 13, 2022 12:44pm
In our family we say "Kkaar di daal, baar di thaal" meaning even daal made at home is better than a platter from a restaurant. There was one Syed family I heard of recently whose women cook food whilst reciting darood shareef. Over time their food was found to have shifa, so people from the locale ask for portions if they had a illness in the family. My father was always repulsed at the very thought of restaurant/take away food. Times change.
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WINNER Mar 17, 2022 04:35am
@Tanvir Khan u r a legend bro... love you :)
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