Your ultimate guide to exploring Istanbul off the beaten path
Often referred to as a gateway between east and west, Istanbul has much more to offer than just hammams and holy sites
Before I moved to Istanbul, I had imagined a vacation in this ancient city means walking around the old town of Sultahahmet with its snaking cobblestone streets, lively cafes selling endless cups of cay (chai), admiring Ottoman architectural wonders with the soothing azaan in the background.
I had come here before and loved going to Istiklal street, stopping for a dondurma (icecream) show, and ending the evening with dinner by the Galata Tower and its breathtaking view of the Bosphorus.
I was enamoured by the charm of this beautiful yet complex city, intrigued by how it balanced history and modernity with such class.
One day in the summer of 2016, my husband and I packed our bags, left our home in Karachi and came here to find out just what it is that makes this place tick.
Having lived here for two years now, I realise this city often referred to as the gateway between east and west, has much more to offer than just hammams and holy sites.
If, like me, you're the adventurous sort looking to take the road less traveled, consider adding these hidden gems to your Istanbul itinerary:
A short walk from the Osmanbey metro station, the Ferikoy neighbourhood has been home to Greek and Armenian families for centuries. My three-year-old and I come to Ferikoy every week for the children's library, a cute municipality-run space where parents can organise workshops and reading sessions for their little ones.
Over the last few years, it has become a magnet for hipsters with many young artists and writers flocking to the area. We love the weekly organic bazaar, flea market and antiques auction that have become social events in themselves as Istanbulus from all over come here to eat gozleme (Turkish crepe) and browse through nostalgic artifacts of the ancient city.
The adjacent neighbourhood of Bomonti is lit up on the weekends with live musical performances, workshops and festivals. The garden's old beer factory with its many cafes and co-working spaces are a weekend staple for young parents like us.
Situated within the bustling district of Kadikoy on the lesser visited – but no less interesting – Asian side of Istanbul, the tranquil Moda Sahil (shore/coast) feels like a whole other world. The ferry ride to the Asian side itself feels like a magical treat.
We can spend a whole day on the sprawling hilly park by the Marmara Sea; it's a perfect spot for a Sunday picnic watching skaters and cycling enthusiasts go by, lovers getting cosy, and dolphin sightings if you're lucky!
For the urban junkies, Moda Caddesi that runs adjacent to the sahil is home to the famous Kadikoy fish market and some of the best restaurants, cafes, galleries, street art and general bohemian chic.
I discovered Balat by accident when I started volunteering at a community center for Syrian refugee women and children. Referred to as “Little Greece” in Istanbul, Fener/Balat has become the neighbourhood of choice for many students, struggling artists and Syrian immigrants today.
The old Greek Orthodox Church and the Phanar College tower over the area, reinforcing the history of interfaith harmony in the city. Every time I go, I discover a new quaint cafe on Vodina Caddesi selling artisinal coffee with either quotes from Russian authors on its cups or with photographs of Audrey Hepburn. I inevitably get lost in the maze of colourful, baroque houses and eclectic antique stores.
Summer can get really brutal in Istanbul when the days are long and the taxi drivers are testing your patience. Coming from Karachi, we needed to find a way to cool off with a dip in the sea. We love going to Kilyos on the European side or Sile on the Asian side.
The beaches surrounding Istanbul are clean, accessible and boast all kinds of facilities from restaurants to overnight camping options.
If nature hikes and trails are more your thing, visiting the 5500-hectare forest nestled between the Eyup and Sariyer districts on the European side is an invigorating experience. On sunny days it's perfect for a BBQ or a romantic stroll with each path taking you to another magical world.
The Ataturk Arboretum displays an impressive collection of 2000 species of plants on most weekdays and is an antidote from the manic pace of the city.
Named after a small group of Polish settlers in the mid-1800s, this small village on the Asian side is a favourite for when we have family in town or a large group of friends and need space to BBQ while the kids run around in the grass. In autumn, we've gone apple and pumpkin picking at the local farms and come back with jars of delicious pure honey.
Living here one can just a tad tired of the endless array of kebabs. The burgeoning Syrian food scene in Istanbul is a welcome break from Turkish cuisine. Modest hole-in-the-wall type dhaabas near the Fatih mosque serve up mouth-watering plates of kibbeh, tabbouleh, zaa’tar, and finger-licking falafels.
I've gone to Fatih for its famous weekly bazaar to pick up artichokes and seasonal fish, spent a whole afternoon eating Fatteh and come back with bags of cardamom coffee. C'est la vie!
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