In a post on Instagram, the star highlighted the struggles she faces with her own skin and how her work and age led to acne breakouts.

Posting pictures of herself from before, during and after the breakout, Mobeen said her skin “went through a lot these last few months”.

She said a combination of harsh lights, daily makeup, wrong treatments and “just being in my early 20s with hormones” led to her developing “really bad acne”, which is “finally healing now”.

The actor said she didn’t look like the filtered pictures she posted on the internet, “but that’s because I am human”.

She went on to say that people face intense scrutiny online, especially “young women in the spotlight” and sometimes netizens “forget there are real people behind the pictures”.

Mobeen ended her note saying, “A little more kindness would go a long way.”

She isn’t alone here either. In 2019, Hania Aamir talked about the same scrutiny and mentioned feeling insecure about her own struggles with acne. She said her anxiety eventually led her to ask, “Why is my skin defining me? Who has made these beauty standards that we always feel the need to match?”

Echoing Aamir’s sentiments, Mehwish Hayat also said, “Flawsome is awesome.” The actor said that, “Away from the studio lights, the cameras and the glamorous makeup, we all battle with the same skin problems and insecurities as any other girl.”

Hayat urged girls in her line of work, Aamir included, to “embrace it,” calling it “part of being a woman”.

In 2021, Syra Yousuf faced trolls head on when they began to make fun of a barefaced picture her sister had posted. The star proceeded to post more of herself with the caption “I really like my skin. #NoFilter”

Owned by British makeup artist and industry legend Pat McGrath, the brand was initially set to go up for auction on January 7, according to Marie Claire. That sale, however, was put on pause when Pat McGrath Labs filed for Chapter 11 protection on January 22, allowing the company to halt the immediate liquidation of its assets and attempt a financial reset instead.

In the US, Chapter 11 bankruptcy allows a business to continue operating while it restructures its debts under court supervision. As New York-based financial planning and analysis manager Samuel Aboagye explained to Marie Claire, “They’ll continue running the business normally, but they have certain goals they must meet to pay back their debtors. If they don’t pay their debts (and by extension, their debtors) back in the timeline agreed upon, then they’ll cease control of the company or liquidate it for the funds and shut it down.”

Until fairly recently, Pat McGrath Labs appeared to be thriving on the surface. The brand remained highly visible online, backed by viral launches and glossy social media campaigns. Behind the scenes, however, employees reportedly described a far more pressurised environment, according to The Cut.

The bankruptcy filing comes in the same year that McGrath herself reached a major career milestone. In March 2025, she was announced as the creative director of La Beauté Louis Vuitton, the luxury house’s long-anticipated makeup line — a role that underscored her influence in the fashion and beauty world.

McGrath’s rise began in the 1980s, when her experimental, high-impact techniques quickly set her apart. In 2015, she launched Pat McGrath Labs, debuting with a $40 pressed gold pigment. The brand soon became synonymous with maximalist glamour, particularly its now-iconic $128 Mothership eyeshadow palettes and richly pigmented lipsticks that dominated both runways and red carpets.

In 2018, Pat McGrath Labs secured $60 million in funding from Eurazeo Brands, and within five years, the company reached a $1 billion valuation. By 2021, Eurazeo quietly exited its stake — a move that, in hindsight, marked the beginning of a more turbulent chapter for the once-unstoppable beauty brand.

This is where makeup artist Bina Khan’s Just B Cosmetics Pigment Glow single palettes come in, which might just be the multitasking heroes your mak-up bag has been craving. As for the bank-balance panic? We’ll let you decide once you’ve read on.

Created by one of Karachi’s most sought-after makeup artists, Khan’s new Pigment Glow series features three shimmer shades desi women reach for time and again: Champagne, Antique Gold and Cool Bronze. The idea is simple — products that can be worn subtly or built up, depending on what you’re going for. Each shade can be applied both wet and dry: dry for a “soft veil of glimmer” and wet for a more pigmented finish.

According to the product page, each palette is meant to do more than one job.

The Champagne Pigment Glow, marketed as a 4-in-1 multitasker, can be used as a setting powder for a natural glow, a highlighter, an eyeshadow, and even a concealer and brightener for the under-eye area.

The Antique Gold Pigment Glow works as an eyeshadow, bronzer, highlighter, and can moonlight as a liner when used wet.

The Cool Bronze Pigment Glow, a double-toned hue, is designed to be applied across the eyelid or built up beautifully for an intense look. It can also be used as a graphic liner with a wet brush.

Just B Cosmetics sent us the range of the Pigment Glow products, so we put all three to the test across different skin tones — and here’s what we thought.

Aniqa

Skin tone: Light

I tried Champagne first. I swept the highlighter just above my cheekbones. I went in with a restrained hand half-expecting it to disappear but it didn’t. The glow was subtle but also the kind that catches light when you move around instead of being obvious upfront. It’s perfect for someone who wants a minimal and quietly luminous glow without veering into glittery excess.

For the eyes, I followed the instructions on the back of the box and used Cool Bronze to line my eyelids. While the texture was smooth and easy to work with, the pigment just didn’t live up to what an eyeliner should deliver. I had to layer it more than I’d like, and even then, it lacked the sharp definition I expect around the eyes. It worked technically, but only just.

I layered Antique Gold on top as an eyeshadow, and this is where things redeemed themselves aesthetically. The shade itself was warm and soft, but once it sat over the bronze, the two melted into each other. I wanted to create a deliberate line-and-shadow look, but it slowly dissolved into a single blended wash of colour. Pretty, yes, but indistinct. By the end of the day, it looked like a gentle gradient rather than two separate shades doing different jobs.

Overall, the quality of the products felt good. The formulas are smooth, wearable, and clearly well-made. They transition easily from day to night, too. With a slightly heavier hand and a sharper liner, this is a look I’d happily wear on a night out when I want a touch of glam without going full sparkle. But value for money is where I hesitate. At Rs4,700 per shade, it’s hard to justify when my Rs7,000 eyeshadow palette offers these exact tones and 15 more, and will last me at least a year. These products feel luxurious in isolation, but when placed next to what already exists in my makeup drawer, they don’t quite earn their place…

Rida

Skin tone: Fair

I applied the Champagne shade on my eyes, and honestly, beyond being a very pretty colour, it wore surprisingly well. I didn’t apply it over a base or a concealer, though, and I do think that would have made a difference. After about five to six hours, it started smudging slightly; a layer of concealer underneath would likely help keep it intact for longer wear.

That said, the price point is where it loses me. At Rs4,700, I personally wouldn’t pay that much for a single product.

Siham

Skin tone: Light

I tried the Antique Gold on one eye and Champagne on the other. Zil E and I also used setting spray on our faces, while Rida and Aniqa didn‘t. I’m sure the setting spray played a big role in how long-lasting the product was, but mine lasted till 5am, when I finally went to wash my face and discovered that the product I put on at 12pm was still very much there, just more subtle. That was huge for me, considering product usually fades away after a couple of hours, with or without setting spray.

What I liked about the Pigment Glow is that the colours are flattering — they‘re the kind of colours that suit desi skin and didn’t look harsh or outlandish on any of us. I particularly liked the Antique Gold because for me, it’s the kind of eyeshadow that steals the show and could be paired with a nice eyeliner for a complete look. By the time I took it off, it had dulled down to a far more subtle shimmer, but it was definitely still there.

It was very much a wedding or party look, something that adds a really nice pop of colour to your eyes, one that was long-lasting and pretty. The downside is that I don‘t wear colours like this every day.

To me the price is relative — yes, it‘s expensive for a Pakistani product but whether it’s worth it depends on how much you like the colour and whether you want to buy an entire palette of eyeshadows when you actually just want one or two colours. Having bought multiple palettes over the years, I’ve now realised that I now gravitate more towards getting one or two good colours that I will actually wear as opposed to an entire palette.

Rs4,700 is approximately $16 dollars, and when I think of it that way, that’s not super expensive for an eyeshadow. But then again, the Pigment Glow isn‘t advertised as just an eyeshadow — it’s supposed to be used as a highlighter or glowy bronzer, eyeliner and shimmer as well. The amount of product is indicative of that, because it’s larger than the average single eyeshadow.

Zil E

Skin tone: Medium

I used Antique Gold on my eyelids, added a touch of Cool Bronze to the outer corners, and applied Champagne as a basic highlighter on my cheekbones.

What I loved was that all three shades brought a subtle warmth to my face. They blended seamlessly into each other, creating a cohesive look, something I often gravitate towards while doing my makeup. However, using them as eyeliners didn’t quite work for me. Despite using a wet brush, it just felt like the shades blended into each other, not letting the liner pop the way it is supposed to, so I had to make do with my good old black eyeliner.

As a highlighter, Champagne did exactly what it promised: it sat beautifully on the high points of my face and delivered a subtle, polished glow. My one gripe with the formula, though, was that while it feels buttery to the touch, the product becomes a bit too loose when picked up with a brush. I noticed fallout, not just on the packaging but also on my liner when I applied it to my eyes.

I am also not someone who would wear such shades every day. Being someone who prefers simple, pared-back makeup over shimmer glam for my day-to-day look, I see myself using these palettes maybe once every two weeks. Or maybe every other day during December (iykyk)?

Would I spend Rs4700 on a single shade that I might wear once every two weeks or even less? Definitely not, especially when I can find all these shades and more in the eyeshadow palettes I own.

In 2021, Khan launched a series of lipsticks in five shades which she described as a “love letter to desi women” when Images spoke to her.

Khan’s latest Pigment Glow series might be the answer for desi people who swear by these shades, or for makeup artists who are willing to spend that much money on a single shade for their brides. The question is, would you?

So, when a box of Aroma Farmacy goodies arrived at the Images office, I took it as a sign. Fate. Destiny. Or maybe just good PR.

As someone who has been dealing with chronic hair fall for years, the kind that requires actual medical treatment, scalp serums, supplements, and a Google search history that would make dermatologists cry, I am both the ideal test subject and the worst. Ideal, because I can tell immediately when something irritates my scalp. Worst, because real results for people like me rarely come from a single ingredient.

Still, I was curious.

How I used it

I paired Aroma Farmacy’s Rosemary Essential Oil with the brand’s Almond Oil — essential oils are very high in concentration and should always be diluted unless you enjoy setting your scalp on fire. A few drops of rosemary into a generous amount of almond oil, mixed in the palm, and applied directly to the scalp with a gentle massage.

I used it twice over two weeks, keeping the mixture on for an hour or so before shampooing as normal.

The experience

First, let’s talk scent: rosemary oil has that crisp, herbal, slightly medicinal fragrance that makes you feel like you’re doing something good for your hair, even before you see results. Paired with the almond oil, the mix felt lightweight and non-greasy, a big plus for anyone who hates feeling like a deep-fried samosa.

The application was soothing. No stinging, no redness, no post-wash dryness. Aroma Farmacy’s version, in particular, didn’t feel harsh, something that can’t be said for every locally available essential oil claiming to be “100 per cent pure”.

But did it help the hair fall?

Here’s the honest truth — with chronic hair fall, two uses won’t magically change anything, and they didn’t for me. My shedding didn’t suddenly stop, my hairline didn’t sprout baby hair overnight, and my shower drain still looked like a crime scene.

But what I did notice was how healthy my scalp felt afterwards. The mild inflammation I often deal with calmed down, my roots felt softer and the overall feel of my hair was noticeably smoother post-wash.

For someone managing hair fall as a medical condition, I don’t expect topical products to perform miracles. But as a supportive, nourishing treatment that complements my doctor-approved routine? Aroma Farmacy’s rosemary oil held its own.

If you’re already on the rosemary-oil bandwagon, Aroma Farmacy offers a gentle, pleasantly scented, budget-friendly option that won’t irritate your scalp — their Rosemary Essential Oil is for Rs670 and their carrier Almond Oil is for Rs770.

If you’re expecting a miracle cure, though, remember, hair fall that’s rooted in hormones, deficiencies, stress, or genetics needs more than a trending essential oil. But as part of a wider routine? Worth trying.

Rating: ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

This article is part of an ongoing series on supporting local products. All the products are independently evaluated and reviewed by a member of the Images team and reflect their personal opinions. If you’re a local business and would like to be featured, reach out to us at imagesdawndotcom@gmail.com.

As of September 1, the EU has officially banned trimethylbenzoyl diphenylphosphine oxide, or TPO, a chemical found in gel nail colours, reported Fox News — meaning that gel nail polishes with TPO can no longer be sold or used by nail technicians in Europe. The chemical reacts under UV light to make the polish harden quickly and gives it its ultra-glossy finish.

TPO isn’t in every gel formula, but it’s pretty common. Nail salons in any of the EU’s 27 member states, as well as other countries that mirror the trade bloc’s regulations, such as Norway and Switzerland, have been asked to ditch their inventory immediately, with no grace period and no exceptions, reported The Independent.

Salons and retailers must safely dispose of all their current stock, while manufacturers must reformulate their products to be TPO-free.

The decision stems from several studies linking TPO exposure to fertility issues. These studies often focused on animals, not humans, but the EU uses a strict “better safe than sorry” approach when it comes to cosmetics.

Dermatologist Dr Hannah Kopelman told Wellness Pulse that the EU’s decision is “more of a precautionary move rather than a response to strong human evidence,” since most of the research on TPO’s health effects has been limited to animal studies.

Meanwhile, TPO remains legal and unregulated in the US, where more than 100 million women use nail products. You can walk into most salons today and get a TPO-heavy manicure without anyone blinking, reported VICE News.

The EU’s ban could still disrupt the American beauty industry if companies sourcing their products from Europe are affected by knock-on supply shortages. And those that reformulate their gels in Europe may do the same in the US in order to avoid making two separate versions of the product, per The Independent.

Even products that were restricted to professional use in the EU — capped at five per cent TPO concentration — are still floating around American salons and retailers.

In Pakistan, most, if not all of our gel nail polish is imported as there aren’t any big name brands that produce the product.

Many in Europe oppose the ban, with Belgian wholesaler ASAP Nails and Beauty Supply setting up a protest website and arguing it would cause “major economic damage” to small businesses and was based on “no human evidence of danger”.

There are ways to reduce TPO exposure, per VICE. Brands like OPI’s Intelli-Gel, Aprés Nail, and Aimeili offer TPO-free options. Experts also suggest spacing out gel appointments, choosing well-ventilated salons, and using a protective base coat.

There’s more to worry about than what’s in the formula, per the outlet. UV-curing devices have raised concerns about skin cancer risk, and letting gel polish “grow out” can cause bacterial infections. Experts warn that the hardened gel, cured with a UV or LED lamp, can harbour dangerous bacteria.

To protect oneself when getting manicures, the American Academy of Dermatology recommends applying broad-spectrum sunscreen to the hands before using the UV device, not to wear nail polish for one to two weeks or longer, and not to pick gel nail polish. When the colour begins to come off, make an appointment with your manicurist to have it removed, and consider opting for regular nail polish over gel.

The edible oil is slipping out of the reach of price-conscious consumers, and those accustomed to its distinctive flavour, deeply embedded in regional cuisine, must search harder to find alternatives.

“I will switch to the more affordable refined sunflower oil for everyday cooking and save coconut oil for dishes where its flavour is absolutely irreplaceable,” said Leelamma Cherian, who lives in India’s southern state of Kerala.

The price surge that began in the second half of 2024 was accelerated by output disruptions across major producer nations from India to Southeast Asia, caused by seasons of lower rainfall, extended heat, and more ravages by pests and disease.

Prices in India have nearly tripled in less than two years, to a record INR 423,000 or $4,840 a metric tonne, while global prices surged to an all-time high of $2,990 per tonne over the same period.

A group of producer nations, the International Coconut Community (ICC), says growing demand in the face of production limits will keep second-half global prices in the range of $2,500 to $2,700, well over the 2023 figure of about $1,000. Coconut oil supplies usually improve in Southeast Asia in the second half, and new season output will help ease prices off records, said a Singapore-based vegetable oil trader.

“Still, prices probably won’t drop below $2,000 anytime soon,” he said.

A fall below $1,800 a tonne in the next two years was unlikely, he added, pointing to the neglect of plantations and unfavourable weather in recent years as factors likely to delay a broader production recovery, especially at a time when supplies of other similar lauric oils are tight. “While prices are expected to ease gradually, the current rally is likely to establish a new normal.”

The price surge also affects unripe green coconuts harvested for their electrolyte-laden water, and products such as copra, milk, and powder, while squeezing makers of shampoo and skincare items, who prize the oil for its high content of lauric acid.

A supply squeeze

Globally, coconut oil output is falling as trees age, replanting proves inadequate, and plantations grapple with a shortage of better seed varieties, said Dorab Mistry, a director of Indian consumer goods company Godrej International.

World coconut oil production was 3.67 million tonnes in 2024–25, with no growth over the past three decades, barring minor annual fluctuations, the US agriculture department says.

As weather conditions increasingly swing from hot, dry spells to sudden heavy rains, both extremes disrupt coconut production, said Joe Ling, executive director of Malaysia’s Linaco Group, a leading supplier.

These days, at least one producing country is affected — if dry weather is not curtailing output in Indonesia or Malaysia, it is highly likely that typhoons are disrupting production in the Philippines, or vice versa, Ling said.

Yields fell in 2023 as the El Niño weather phenomenon brought above-average heat and below-average rains to key growing regions, said a Mumbai-based dealer at a global trading house, who sought anonymity in line with company policy. The shortfall was only reflected in 2024, since coconuts typically need nearly a year to mature after flowering.

In the wake of years of underinvestment thanks to low prices, coconut production was further hit by the Covid-19 outbreak, as lockdowns brought a slump in demand and prices. That in turn led farmers to neglect plantations, resulting in lower yields just as demand began to recover when social media influencers drummed up attention to the health benefits of coconut water.

Higher demand for the water prompted farmers to harvest coconuts earlier and further narrowed the supply of mature nuts used to make oil and copra.

Even at higher prices, the perceived health benefits continue to fuel demand for coconut food products, said Ling of Linaco Group. The rally has led his company to raise prices almost monthly and maintain supplies despite upsetting customers, Ling added.

Coconut oil’s premium over rival palm kernel oil, also primarily produced in Asia, has surged to a record $1,000 per tonne, up from the usual $100 to $200. Palm kernel oil prices have also risen, climbing 30 per cent this year.

Any major shift away from coconut oil could drive up prices of alternatives, including palm kernel oil for industry and palm, soy, and sunflower oils for households.

Global demand

While coconut oil is popular in Asia, demand for copra, coconut cream, and milk is strong in Britain, China, Europe, Malaysia, the United States, and the United Arab Emirates.

To capitalise on rising demand, Indonesian farmers are increasingly shipping whole coconuts instead of extracting oil, said Amrizal Idroes, vice chairman of the Indonesian Coconut Processing Industry Association.

Indonesia’s coconut oil exports fell 15pc between January and June, while shipments of items such as desiccated coconut and endocarp coconut rose by 58pc annually, government data showed. Shortages have spurred calls for changes to trade policies that make more oil available at home.

In Indonesia, the Association urged suspension of coconut exports for six to 12 months to stabilise prices, while in India, the Solvent Extractors’ Association asked New Delhi to allow imports of coconut oil and copra.

India regulates imports of coconut oil tightly, with a duty of more than 100pc that makes them expensive, and traders required to seek permits from state trading enterprises.

Higher prices have spurred farmers to expand planting, with strong seedling demand depleting most nurseries’ stocks this year, said an official of India’s state-run Coconut Development Board, who sought anonymity. But yield from new plantations take four or five years to come in, so prospects are bleak for prices to subside quickly.

The brand shared something of an apology on its Instagram page, saying it the campaign was aimed at “humorously spotlight[ing] beauty injustice”.

“We understand we missed the mark with people we care about in our e.l.f. community. While e.l.f.ino & schmarnes closes today, we’ll continue to make the case against overpriced beauty,” read the note.

The apology was for an ad campaign featuring Rife and drag queen Heidi N Closet as ‘affordable’ lawyers for the firm e.l.f.ino & schmarnes who are out to battle high-priced beauty. The campaign was fine, the subject was not.

In 2023, Rife hosted a Netflix special and his opening joke was about domestic violence. This was especially jarring since, prior to this, much of his fanbase was made up of women. He then doubled down and proceeded to mock his critics with a ‘joke’ about people with disabilities.

Many people in the comment section expressed their shock and dismay over Rife’s inclusion, asking how e.l.f. could target women and proceed to feature a man who made such horrific jokes about women.

There were a lot of sarcastic calls for proud misogynist Andrew Tate to be the face of their next campaign.

Many asked the very valid question — was there no one else they could get for this ad?

And, of course, the inevitable question about them being cruelty free — they may not test on animals but they certainly do hire men who have been very cruel about women to represent the brand.

The apology didn’t fare well either, with people questioning why the ad was still up and why the apology didn’t feel like one at all — it felt more like being told they were sorry people felt upset.

The brand’s global chief marketing officer, Kory Marchisotto, told the Business of Beauty that they picked Rife because of his overlap with their target audience — young Gen Z women. His TikTok base, she told the publication, is 80 per cent female, and 75 per cent under the age of 34, which she described as “right in the sweet spot”.

It seems, however, that the brand either didn’t do its homework or was happy to ignore Rife’s past controversies. Whatever it was, it didn’t sit well with e.l.f.’s customers.

With velcro closures, and earholes, the wrap mimics a compression garment used during post-op face lift recovery. The face wrap is basically a medical device, but framed in the language of skincare and aesthetic maintenance, it’s now a lifestyle accessory. It sold out almost instantly and there is currently a waitlist to buy one.

Face shapewear didn’t come out of nowhere. It’s just the latest chapter in a long story — we’ve compressed our waists, shaped our thighs, and trained our arms and now we’re lifting our faces. Skims excels at turning shame into a soft-touch, viral product. There was no massive campaign. Just a post on Instagram, and the internet did the rest.

The term ‘morning shed’ has entered the beauty lexicon as a catch-all for the ritual of undoing overnight puffiness — ideally with a full toolkit of lip masks, under-eye patches, gua shas, and now, apparently, a facial compression device.

It’s part of a broader shift where beauty begins before you even open your eyes. You’re no longer just sleeping — you’re preparing your face to be socially acceptable. It’s not about correcting a flaw, it’s about preserving the illusion that you never had one to begin with.

And while it’s sold as a wellness tool, the product’s origins tell another story. Face wraps were originally used to reduce post-op swelling and are now what people are wearing now to do laundry in. The line between recovery and routine has officially blurred because the performance of perfection never really ends.

Skims is banking on the fact that people keep buying fixes for problems we didn’t know we had, and judging by the response, they’re probably right. But if we need to sculpt our faces in our sleep, maybe it’s not just our jawlines that need adjusting — it’s the standard itself.

Just as the new line of sprays is set to launch in a few days, the original product manufacturer, Skindinavia, has taken to social media to distance itself from the updated formula and said announce that it is no longer working with Urban Decay. In an Instagram post, it said the new formula lacks the active cooling ingredients of the original.

Saying that it holds the patent to the cooling ingredient formula, Skindinavia assured longtime users that it would continue to make its version of the spray, and that it would be available to purchase through its own site as well as partner retailers.

Regretting that Urban Decay decided to end their partnership, Skindinavia called the L’Oréal-backed brand out on trying to diminish the original product to promote its new line. “Most small brands can’t stand up to big companies,” it said, and in doing so the brands “…hope[s] this might inspire others to do the same when being bullied”.

The news sent fans on Reddit into a frenzy, with one calling this “the end of Urban Decay” while another said it was “a big mistake”. Users agreed that the All Nighter was “the best product [Urban Decay] still made”.

Emmy winning makeup artist JK Bennet called out Urban Decay and L’Oréal for their promotions at their partner’s expense. In a comment on Skindinavia’s post, he said it “has always provided the best performance for professionals working in all media formats”.

If you’re a makeup user, you’re likely pretty loyal to your products and their formulation. We all know how annoying it is when brands change the formulation of beloved products and leave their customers with something that feels completely alien. We’ve seen it before in skincare and makeup brands, like Laniege, Maybeline and Revlon.

Skindinavia ended its post with a message saying that users should be able to decide whether a beloved product should change, not brands or companies.

Please don’t. As the sun blazes down on several parts of Pakistan and the weather continues to get hotter, a summer’s day is not the ideal comparison, Shakespeare. If anything, the heightened levels of ultraviolet (UV) rays are making us incomparable in the worst way.

To make matters worse, these scorching hot days take a toll on our skin — the largest organ we have. See, the sun’s UV light can cause major damage to the skin. According to Harvard Health, “the sun’s heat dries out areas of unprotected skin, depletes the skin’s supply of natural lubricating oils [and] UV radiation can cause burning and long-term changes in the skin’s structure.”

Over the course of your life, repeated exposure to the sun, especially without protection, can pose potential risks of malignant melanoma and other forms of skin cancer.

So, how does one protect themselves from harmful radiation? We spoke to two dermatologists to get you the answers! (Hint: it’s SPF aka Sun Protection Factor).

Well-known Karachi-based dermatologist Dr Afzal Lodhi had some excellently catchy advice — “Slip, slop, slap. You need to remember to slip on full-length clothes to protect your body, slop on sunscreen on exposed skin and slap on a wide-brimmed hat or scarf for protection from visible sunlight.” He explained that sunscreen only protects from UVA and UVB rays, therefore added protection is important.

Dr Lodhi said dehydration during the summer was another factor contributing to poor skin health as it caused early ageing, and emphasised the need to drink plenty of fluids. He recommended a balanced diet, stress management, and no smoking for maximum skin protection.

Dr Shireen Rehmatullah, another Karachi-based dermatologist, echoed Dr Lodhi’s advice and underscored the importance of sunblock, full-length clothing, plenty of water and moisturiser. Moisturiser helps protect the skin’s barrier and keeps water trapped in the upper layers of the skin, making sure your skin is, well, moisturised, as the name so cleverly suggests.

So, why is sunblock important and which one should you buy? Well, it depends on YOUR skin.

The key ingredient in protecting your skin from the sun is SPF. Dr Lodhi told us that, simply put, SPF helps against radiation. He said that everyone needs protection against the skin, even brown people. He explained that previously, the strong ozone layer hindered UV rays from reaching us, however, now, thanks to industrialisation, the ozone layer is depleting, allowing harsher skin-damaging UV rays to reach us.

However, it is pertinent to note that you don’t need to become a vampire and stop stepping out in the sun — it does have benefits like providing us with much-needed vitamin D. You just need to take adequate precautions.

Sunblock versus sunscreen

We often hear the terms sunblock and sunscreen used interchangeably, but they’re not the same products. Dr Rehmatullah explained that sunscreen consists of the chemical compound benzine which absorbs the sun’s rays instead of letting your body absorb them. Meanwhile, sunblock is comprised of minerals such as zinc oxide and titanium dioxide which repel sun rays. Neither is better than the other.

“It depends on the individual. Your doctor will examine you, help determine your skin type and then suggest what is best for you. For example, if someone is eczematic or has allergies then we won’t give them sunblock with chemicals, we would recommend physical barriers from the sun.”

Karachi-based dermatologist Dr Asma Qaiser Qureshi told Images in 2019 that, “sunblocks categorised as ‘broad spectrum’, mean that your product has ingredients that can protect you from UVA rays as well as UVB. That’s what you need to incorporate into your skincare routine.”

She also emphasised the need to reapply your SPF. “When you’re out in the open air near the water, you need to reapply your sunblock every two hours and if you’re in the water or if you sweat, you should reapply immediately.”

What SPF should you purchase?

When you’re buying sunscreen or sunblock you will notice the SPF number on the bottle. That number can range from SPF 20 to 50+.

Dr Lodhi explained that SPF was not a significant concern for brown people. For example, if your skin takes a minute to burn, SPF 30 will ensure it takes 30 minutes to burn, adding 30 times the protection. For people with more melanin, our skin takes longer to burn. But remember, just because it takes longer to burn does not mean it will not burn!

On the other hand, Dr Rehmatullah recommended that everyone use at least SPF 50 for maximum protection.

Ultimately, as the dermatologists emphasised, it is important to visit your skin doctor and consult them about what kind of SPF and what formulation you should be using, depending on your unique skin type. Dr Lodhi highlighted that during the summers, it is more suitable to use lighter, gel-based sunscreens, especially for those with oily skin.

Additionally, both doctors told Images that applying vitamin C serum during the day and vitamin A serum at night were crucial steps to having healthier skin.

Vitamin C is an antioxidant that helps combat toxins which come into contact with your skin, especially because of air pollution. Vitamin C can also help protect the skin from harmful UV rays when used in conjunction with broad-spectrum SPF.

Meanwhile, Vitamin A is a retinoid that reduces the appearance of ageing by promoting collagen production, helps prevent damage, and protects the skin from UV rays and pollution. According to Healthline, it improves skin elasticity and sagging by helping remove damaged elastin fibres and promoting the formation of new blood vessels.

As people used to living under harsh temperatures, many of us South Asians forget that too much sun exposure and not enough skincare can be detrimental to our skin. Tanning, early ageing aka wrinkles, dryness, acne and fungal infections courtesy of sweat, and pigmentation are all issues both doctors treat frequently during the summer months.

An image published in the New England Journal of Medicine showcased the damage the sun can do to a person’s skin. An unidentified trucker had been driving for 28 years and had accumulated exposure to UVA radiation.

The 69-year-old has a condition called unilateral dermatoheliosis and his skin gradually thickened as UVA rays penetrated the skin’s layers causing premature aging and wrinkles. According to the journal, chronic UVA exposure can result in the thickening of the skin’s top layers, as well as the destruction of the skin’s elastic fibres.

Due to the hours he spent behind the wheel, the driver had excessive damage on the left side of his face.

According to CBS News, experts had thought only UVB rays, which cause sunburn, were the main cause of skin cancer but recent research suggests UVA rays can damage DNA in the skin’s deepest layers, increasing the risk that they become cancerous.

While extreme skin conditions can occur after prolonged exposure, there are also ailments that happen sooner. Dr Lodhi explained that during heatwaves, sun damage caused blemishes and two-toned, uneven skin in many patients. He recommended that people suffering from these issues visit their doctors instead of using formula creams and whitening creams that damage your skin from the inside. He said he saw at least one or two patients every day who had skin concerns because they used these creams during the summer.

In conclusion, slap on some sunscreen (or sunblock) before you step out to protect your skin. And remember to hydrate, moisturise and use vitamins A and C.

Looksmaxxing influencers — part of an online ecosystem dubbed the “manosphere” — have surged in popularity across social media, capitalising on the insecurities of young men eager to boost their physical attractiveness to women.

In posts across TikTok, Instagram and YouTube, they promote pseudoscientific methods to achieve everything from pouty lips to chin extensions and almond-shaped “hunter eyes,” often while monetising their popularity by endorsing a range of consumer products.

In more extreme cases, these influencers advocate taking steroids, undergoing plastic surgery and even “leg-lengthening” procedures to become more attractive.

While women may pay regular visits to aestheticians or buy new beauty products, spurring a global beauty retail market worth hundreds of billions of dollars, the manosphere at times promotes a DIY approach that draws on the nearest toolbox.

“Babe, what’s taking you so long in the bathroom?” reads the caption flashing across a viral TikTok video of a man seen hitting his cheeks with the sharp edge of a hammer, in what he calls his “skincare routine.”

Underneath the video are dozens of comments warning that “bone smashing,” also known as the hammer technique, was “dangerous” while others hailed it as a legitimate way to achieve an angular jawline.

In other videos, British influencer Oscar Patel promoted “mewing,” an unproven technique that involves pressing the tongue into the roof of the mouth for improving jaw and facial structure.

Without offering evidence, he told his nearly 188,000 TikTok followers that such tricks would turn them into a “PSL god,” an internet slang for exceptionally attractive men, short for Perfectly Symmetrical Looks.

‘Toxic combination’

In another video, US-based TikToker Dillon Latham misleadingly told his 1.7 million followers to whiten their teeth by applying hydrogen peroxide to their teeth with a Q-tip.

Some dentists warn that regularly using store-bought peroxide could damage tooth enamel and gums.

The looksmaxxing trend is fueling “an industry of influencers who promote ‘perfect bodies and perfect faces’, often to feather their own nest,” Siddharth Venkataramakrishnan, an analyst at the Institute for Strategic Dialogue, told AFP.

“Among men, this is mixed with the misogyny of the manosphere, which often blames women for male insecurities, creating a toxic combination,” he added.

Many looksmaxxing influencers appear to have a financial incentive, frequently leveraging their popularity to promote products ranging from skin cleansers to pheromone perfumes, and even Chinese knock-off watches.

Looksmaxxing is rooted in “incel” — or involuntarily celibate — communities, an internet subculture rife with misogyny, with men tending to blame women and feminism for their romantic failings.

“The incel ideology is being rebranded to looksmaxxing on TikTok,” Anda Solea, a researcher at the School of Criminology and Criminal Justice at the University of Portsmouth, told AFP.

In a study, Solea found that incel-inspired accounts on TikTok were circumventing a ban on hateful language with a focus on looksmaxxing and more palatable words about self-improvement.

“There are a lot of pressures on men –– we want to protect women from gender-based violence but we should also be careful about young men and boys,” Solea said.

‘Deeply damaging’

Other related maxxing trends have also gained traction, including “gymmaxxing,” which focuses on building muscle, and “moneymaxxing,” which centres on improving financial status — all with the ultimate goal of increasing sexual desirability.

Looksmaxxing influencers –– many of whom idolise male models such as Australian Jordan Barrett and American Sean O’Pry — have amassed massive followings as algorithms propel their content to millions.

These algorithms can lead to real-world harm, experts warn.

The danger was dramatised in the recent Netflix hit Adolescence, which follows the case of a 13-year-old boy accused of killing a classmate after consuming misogynistic content online.

The fictional crime drama references the popular but unfounded “80/20” theory that claims 80 per cent of women are attracted to 20pc of men.

In a study last year, researchers at Dublin City University created fake accounts registered as teenage boys. They reported that their TikTok and YouTube feeds were “bombarded” with male supremacy and misogynistic content.

“More widely, this does feed into toxic beauty standards which affect men as well as women,” said Venkataramakrishnan, from the Institute for Strategic Dialogue.

“The idea that if you don’t look like a Hollywood star, you might as well give up trying for a relationship is deeply damaging.”

Lucas highlighted a comment she received on a recent video she posted on social media in which someone called her a “jamadar” or sweeper. First she laughed at it, then she asked herself why she was laughing because it wasn’t funny at all.

Lucas is a well-known Pakistani model who has been in multiple fashion campaigns, including for Generation, Hussain Rehar’s Jugnu, Iqbal Hussain, Esfir, Zara Shah Jahan and Sana Safinaz, to name a few.

“It’s sad, it’s really sad that this is the world we live in, where we think we are so much better than everyone else based on how we look, what we do and who we are,” she said.

“We think it’s okay to use terms like maasi [maid] and jamadar and words we think we can use to belittle someone else when really, there is no shame in being a jamadar, there is no shame in being a maasi, there is no shame in doing anything that you’re doing honestly and earnestly,” she said.

She asked where the entitlement comes from that enables people to think that they can call someone something they consider a “bad word”.

“I know why they called me this — it has to do with the colour of my skin,” she said. “It doesn’t offend me, I’ve been hearing this since I was a child,” said Lucas.

“It makes me angry and sad that this is still where we’re at and we have so much work to do still.

“I keep thinking that I’ve made some kind of a difference — I’m in fashion, I’m a model, I’m really unapologetic about the way that I look and my skin and I really own it and all of these things are true,” she said. “But do I think we have a lot more work to do? Yes, the fashion industry is a small community, a small group of people, a bubble but there’s a lot more work we need to do.”

Pakistanis are no strangers to colourism — it’s deeply embedded in our society and the way we view beauty. From little children being shamed for having darker skin to a gorgeous model being told she looks like a ‘jamadar’, colourism is something all of us, especially women, are familiar with because it has been drummed into our heads from a despicably young age that to be fair means to be lovely.

We can argue for days about how this mindset is part and parcel of our colonial hangover and our obsession with distancing ourselves from anything that could be considered too desi but it all boils down to a deep insecurity where we believe brown skin is inferior. Lest the people who make colourist comments forget — we are all brown. That one person’s skin is a slightly lighter shade of brown does not suddenly make them less Pakistani or less brown. We are all the same people and putting someone else down doesn’t elevate you in any way.

We also agree with the point Lucas made about people thinking they are better than everyone else based on arbitrary perceptions of their own self worth. If only the people calling someone a jamadar or maasi and then patting themselves on the back for a job well done realised that their words say more about themselves than the person they’re addressing.

It’s not on Trinette Lucas or anyone else to change people’s perceptions about skin colour — it’s on people to educate themselves and realise that we need to break toxic cycles ourselves. It’s 2025, let’s be better than this.

I’ll be honest, I am not someone who’s into an elaborate skincare routine — my nighttime regimen does not constitute eight steps. My holy grail has been a double cleanse and glycolic acid serum coupled with a good moisturiser. I top it all off with a final spray of rose water. But I knew I had to go on a hunt to find a new brand of rose water when the one I stumbled upon in my kitchen began causing irritation on my skin — not to mention my mom’s constant complaints of me consuming most of it!

Enter an Aura Crafts package sent to the office.

The Aura Crafts Organic Rose Water does the job. It’s everything you’d want your rose water to be — it’s light, leaves your skin fresh, hydrated, and plump, and doesn’t leave a heavy feel on your skin. Moreover, at Rs1,250 a bottle, the quantity is plenty! The only drawback for me is its strong scent, as I like my face mists to be a little more on the neutral side. But hey — if you love roses, this could be right up your alley. After using it for almost two weeks, my skin feels more hydrated.

Another Aura Crafts product I tried is their body mist, Eden. Priced the same as their rose water, it is absolutely worth your Rs1,250. The scent, unlike their facial mist, is delicate. The floral fragrance became a personal favourite soon after I wore it for the first time, and it fits me just right since I prefer it more than fruity tones. While the mist’s scent won’t probably last you eight hours, it could layer very nicely with your everyday perfume.

Safe to say, Aura Crafts might just be the saving grace I had been looking for when it comes to local skincare brands. After their mists, I’m eyeing their plumping lip balm and K-Repair Radiance Serum. You can order all product ranges from their website.

Rating: ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

This article is part of an ongoing series on supporting local products. All the products are independently evaluated and reviewed by a member of the Images team and reflect their personal opinions. If you’re a local business and would like to be featured, reach out to us at imagesdawndotcom@gmail.com.

Her brand, called Sunkissed, is launching soon, so we decided to speak to her about it.

“I’m very particular when it comes to my beauty products. I love a natural glowy look and have always searched for products that help me achieve that look,” she explained. “But I also want them to be lightweight, with nourishing ingredients and something I can use on a daily basis. Hence, I decided to curate my own beauty line with my sisters.”

Sun-kissed is a term we’ve used to describe Khawar’s blush and lipstick in the past too — and it’s definitely one that best describes her look. In fact, that everyone recognises that look as her signature is something that played into her decision to launch these products.

“For the longest time, I’ve had people ask me about my lip and cheek tints. And I love that because I’m so specific about the shades and textures of my lip and cheek products. By curating my own line, I have been able to achieve just the right colour and texture that I like instead of having to mix a bunch of different products to get the look. I feel like most girls are simply looking for one product which is just the right shade and texture for an everyday natural look,” she explained.

“And I hope my products do that. They definitely do that for me. From the beginning, it was really important for me that I love and use these products myself on a daily basis, which I’m very happy to have achieved. So I hope others like it too!”

The brand is starting off with two basic products — a blush and a lip balm that Khawar says can give a “quick, glowy, sun-kissed look”. “Each product comes in one shade and it’s like an everyday kit. However, we plan to introduce more shades and textures in these products very soon, InshAllah. Small beginnings!”

For now, the brand is starting small. “I think I will take one step at a time. Feedback of customers is extremely important to us so we will wait to hear from them what is it that they would like to see. I would personally love to introduce more shades in these products and also launch more types of lip products. Matte, glossy, and liquid — something for everyone. But fingers crossed for now!” Khawar said.

The artist is joining a host of Pakistani women opening makeup and skincare businesses in the country. We’ve seen brands mushroom over the past couple of years, with Pakistani women given more choice than ever before. Part of that is fuelled by a renewed desire to shop local.

“I think it is primarily because of economic factors. Importing products from abroad has become increasingly expensive and fluctuations in currency have also made people less inclined towards buying western products,” she explained. “Local businesses have also been producing great products lately, especially post-Covid. There are so many unique small businesses producing such great quality products. So I do think there has been a gradual shift in people towards local products and I think that’s great! As long as local products are of quality and easily accessible, why would anyone buy from abroad?”

Why, indeed? Shopping local has become all the rage recently — we’ve got a whole section dedicated to it! — and people are getting more creative by the day.

What else is new?

But while Khawar has been spending quite a bit of time developing Sunkissed, she has had other stuff going on in her life as well. “I displayed my art at an exhibition earlier this year and have plans for displaying it at my own solo show. Being a mom also keeps me super busy so I’m always trying to find the quiet hours where I can work on my business and art,” she told us.

Speaking of art — her work is rather diverse. We’ve seen stallions, abstracts and more in her work, which led us to wonder about her what inspires her. “My inspiration comes from a blend of life experiences, emotions, and the world around me. I’m often drawn to themes that explore the human experience, such as love, freedom, and the process of letting go. Whether it’s the fluidity of abstracts, the strength and beauty of stallions, or the more recent pieces displayed at Muse Galleries, each artwork is a reflection of different moments and feelings that have resonated with me. I believe art is a journey, and I’m always inspired by the idea of expressing this journey in diverse and meaningful ways.”

For Khawar, there isn’t just one artist she can pick as her favourite. “There are many artists whose work I admire, and it’s hard to single out just one. Iqbal Hussain’s portrayal of everyday life and the human spirit is something I find particularly inspiring. However, I believe that inspiration can be drawn from a multitude of artists, both Pakistani and international, each bringing their own unique perspective and storytelling to the canvas.”

Right now, she’s focusing on her new brand and some new artwork. “It’s still in the early stages, but I’m excited to share it soon. I’m looking forward to seeing how this one unfolds.”

But during one of my many doom scrolls, I came across an ad for this product and figured I should give it a try. Don’t get me wrong, I firmly believe in false advertising and taking everything on the internet with a pinch of salt. But I had a gut feeling about this one, or should I say, ahem, my roots were calling.

So I purchased a 125ml bottle, which is priced at Rs1,800 and is currently on sale for Rs1,399.

It was delivered to me within a week and when it came to trying it, I was a bit concerned. It claimed to solve ALL of my hair problems — a herculean task, might I add. The oil is a combination of 20 plus ingredients, including other hair oils like coconut, mustard, almond, sesame seed and pumpkin oil.

We all know that herbs like rosemary, fenugreek, black seed, nettle and lavender are reliable hair growth solutions while curry leaves and amla are known to nourish and hydrate your hair. Meanwhile, hibiscus is rich in essential nutrients that strengthen hair follicles. So I figured, how bad could an oil containing all these goodies be?

Pouring a generous amount on my palm, I gently massaged it on my scalp. I made sure to coat my frizzy locks generously and left it on for 90 minutes, as instructed on the packaging. I washed my hair with cold water. Despite its thick consistency, it was rather easy to remove and didn’t stink much either!

The whole process left my hair feeling nourished and bouncy. You can choose to condition your hair after washing it but I don’t when I have already oiled it because that usually weighs it down.

Having used the oil four times by now over three weeks — although you’re supposed to apply it twice a week — my hair feels much stronger. I am also noticing baby hair growing where a bald patch used to be so I guess the Ancestor Oil is truly a marvel.

If you notice sudden hair fall and unexplained balding, you need to see a dermatologist and perhaps also a nutritionist. But if you’re a hypochondriac like me and getting an expert opinion isn’t enough, you can buy this product from the Zojja website and use it on the side.

Rating: ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

This article is part of an ongoing series on supporting local products. All the products are independently evaluated and reviewed by a member of the Images team and reflect their personal opinions. If you’re a local business and would like to be featured, reach out to us at imagesdawndotcom@gmail.com.

First things first, the scent — the lotion smelled like freshly cut motia, and I could almost smell the green stems along with the flower itself. The fragrance was very pleasant and quite noticeable, but not in an overwhelming way that dominates your olfactory senses.

As I applied it, the floral notes wafted up, and when I brought my hands close to my face for a deeper whiff, it instantly lifted my spirits. I was transported back to my childhood home, surrounded by fragrant motia bushes. This lotion made me truly understand the whole point of aromatherapy, as I was hit with an immediate serotonin boost.

The lotion itself was more hydrating than moisturising and was not super heavy or overly greasy, which is perfect for Karachi’s humid weather. It was a light, refreshing vibe overall, and I immediately looked forward to my next shower so I could slather it all over.

My next big question was how long would the scent last because delicate floral scents usually dissipate rather quickly. I was pleasantly surprised to discover that the smell of motia lasted quite a while on my hands. It did gradually decrease, but I could smell the faint notes of freshly picked flowers for the next two hours or so.

Over time, I also noticed that the lotion was genuinely hydrating, and my skin felt wonderful. If you’re as obsessed with motia, especially the fresh flower, this lotion is a must-buy!

Priced at Rs1,866, it’s more affordable than some of the imported options available at stores (ahem Body Shop and Bath and Body Works). According to its label, the lotion is eco-friendly and crafted with fresh, natural ingredients. It contains extra virgin olive oil, jojoba oil, and vitamin E oil — all great for nourishing your skin!

Koel also offers motia-scented soap and fragrance oil, all of which are available to order nationwide on their website and in their stores in Karachi and Lahore.

I rate this product a 5 out of 5.

Rating: ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

This article is part of an ongoing series on supporting local products. All the products are independently evaluated and reviewed by a member of the Images team and reflect their personal opinions. If you’re a local business and would like to be featured, reach out to us at imagesdawndotcom@gmail.com.

Following a brief stint in college where she studied Human Resources and Labour Studies, Cynthia realised her passion to create social media content to empower women who looked like her — plus size, brown skinned and South Asian.

Cynthia’s parents fled the Tamil genocide in Sri Lanka that began in 1956 to find a new home and a new beginning. Growing up, she experienced an identity crisis because she was isolated from her country’s culture and its history. Migrating to the United States posed another challenge because the country was so multicultural that it only raised more questions for Cynthia about who she truly was.

“I thought I was Indian for such a long time,” Cynthia said. “Where I live, particularly finding out how I can be American as well as equally Sri Lankan has been difficult.”

Despite the identity crisis she experienced, Cynthia never felt alone in her journey of finding her ethnic roots as a Tamil woman. After deciding to take the leap to become a social media celebrity, she came across many individuals who felt the same way she felt about losing connection to her cultural heritage. “Even if they’re not Sri Lankan, they’re still going through the identity crisis of being able to balance their own culture with wherever they live,” Cynthia explained.

Through social media, Cynthia was able to find acceptance for who she was as a Sri Lankan-American. She could easily clear misconceptions about being stereotyped as an Indian or, more broadly, a South Asian, simply for being brown when she was equally a well-spoken Canadian living the American dream in New Jersey.

Content creation cemented Cynthia’s confidence as a plus-size, brown woman. Her love for the creative space allowed her to feel fully liberated. “The way you can just express yourself through clothing or makeup is incredible, and even if you’re a quiet person, you can be very loud in the way you express yourself,” she said.

Behind the scenes, the content creator consults with brands and models part-time. She initially started out by creating makeup tutorials for the sake of entertainment but what she did not see coming was an audience of people who resonated with how she looked. Her videos had an unintended impact on social media users who began engaging with her videos to feel empowered, to feel seen.

“I try to do my best to just advocate for everything that I represent as a person,” Cynthia said. “I am a plus-size creator as well as being a brown woman myself, I try to showcase that in any way and form I can.” As she progressed in the realm of digital media, her following grew and she now uses her platform to create beauty and fashion content that is a mix of western aesthetics and Sri Lankan culture.

Cynthia is an advocate of body positivity, a movement that originated in the 1960s with the Fat Acceptance Movement to acknowledge and accept all body types. Arguments are often made about normalising ‘unhealthy’ body types, especially when a younger demographic engages with such content, however, Cynthia feels that body positivity does not solely equate to being overweight. It is a movement created for every single person who comes in any shape, form and size.

Obesity may be hurting individuals but what Cynthia finds even scarier are Ozempic pills and starvation being recommended as weight loss strategies for children and young adults.

“Body positivity is truly just accepting how you come, what you look like, and feeling happy in your body because so many people from outside cultures are teaching young women, children that they do not look good or they’re not supposed to look this certain way. They’re teaching them to hurt themselves.”

Cynthia is using her social media power to defy societal norms of what is considered beautiful. She is on a quest to encourage people to feel comfortable in their skin, never shy away from their culture and feel visible in a world that makes them feel unseen.

The power of social media

Social media has emerged as a powerful tool to shape public opinion, resist genocidal wars across digital spaces, fight for just causes and enact institutional change that people in positions of power may be slow in implementing. As a content creator, Cynthia finds herself in a business where people are connected online like never before, and have the power to create real-time social change.

“The amount of billions of dollars lost by this institution [Starbucks] is enough to show any politician that these people who are in the communities can overthrow any ruling,” Cynthia said.

This has been evident in how social media impacted sales of top-selling food and beverage brands during Israel’s ongoing war crimes in Gaza, including fast food giant McDonald’s, which took a major blow to its business in the Middle East. The franchise’s global sales were under four per cent in the fourth quarter of 2023, down from 8.8pc in the previous quarter. Starbucks experienced a similar blowback cutting its annual sales prediction because fewer customers visited the coffee giant in the Middle East.

Cynthia is one of many content creators on social media who are using their platforms to voice support for the voiceless, and to redefine beauty standards established by institutions that have historically been biased against plus-sized, dark-skinned people.

All photographs by Rony Anthony

I hadn’t tried Conatural’s shampoo before but I knew it was pricey — think over-Rs2,000-for-a-small-bottle pricey — and I didn’t really want to spend so much on a shampoo, especially when you have conditioner to buy too. And of course, this was in comparison to the price of a big company shampoo, which was well under Rs1,000.

Conatural’s Hair Repair Shampoo costs Rs2,745 and its Hair Repair Conditioner costs Rs2,199. That’s a lot for 250ml of product each.

I bought the shampoo and conditioner in March and I estimate that it took me around two and a half months to finish the shampoo. I’m still using the same conditioner. Part of the reason for this is that I cut my hair quite short in February, so I no longer use a lot of conditioner — in fact, I skip it entirely on many days. I’m currently on my second bottle of shampoo, so it’s worth a repurchase to me. If I math it out, it’s about Rs1,098 per month and that’s not too bad.

On to the actual shampoo — I quite like it. It has a subtle scent and is not a shampoo that’s going to lather up and produce tonnes of suds. A little goes a long way — especially because of the price — and I find that if you stop using globs of shampoo, you’ll see that you only need to use a coin sized amount. I learned that I was actually quite wasteful in my shampoo usage before this.

The most important thing is that it makes my hair feel clean. There are some shampoos that are just too gentle for me and they don’t give me that clean feeling after I get out of the shower — thankfully this isn’t one of them. It’s free of sulphates, SLS and a bunch of other things that I know nothing about.

I suppose all that is good for your hair, but I honestly only judge it based on how my hair feels after, and it feels great. For a while, I was just using the shampoo, no conditioner, because I felt that the shampoo was enough. I definitely don’t feel that way with a lot of other locally-produced shampoos.

It was easy enough to cut out the soda and fast food when I wanted to switch to local products, but local alternatives for cosmetics or self-care products aren’t exactly priced cheaper than their foreign counterparts. In many cases, as is the case of Conatural, it’s more expensive than foreign alternatives, which makes it difficult for consumers to pick up a bottle to try.

A slightly cheaper alternative is their Hyaluronic Acid Shampoo, which is priced at Rs1,999. I’m not sure why it’s cheaper than the regular Hair Repair Shampoo, but it works just as well. There’s one annoying thing I noticed on the Hyaluronic Acid Shampoo bottle — a typo! It wants you to massage your hair into a leather instead of a lather.

The shampoos are available via Conatural’s website and at large grocery stores. I picked mine up from the store near my house.

I’m giving it a four out of five, with a point removed for the price because it really is expensive for a shampoo.

Rating: ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

This article is part of an ongoing series on supporting local products. All the products are independently evaluated and reviewed by a member of the Images team and reflect their personal opinions. If you’re a local business and would like to be featured, reach out to us at imagesdawndotcom@gmail.com.

Something that everyone’s trying these days is onion oil. It’d be wrong to say the recipe is the haircare industry’s best-kept secret. This ayurvedic hair potion can be made at home or purchased off the rack from your nearest drug store.

Known for promoting hair growth, it’s fit for all hair types and is readily available on the internet with all haircare brands jumping on the trend.

So, when Images received a package of Dalouk’s Onion & Olive Hair Oil, I was keen on giving it a shot. I used the oil for two weeks — twice a week — before writing this review because it’s a hair oil, not a magic serum.

The instructions on the packaging were clear — apply it two hours before washing your hair and make sure you massage it well so the oil is evenly distributed. I try to focus on the roots and ends of my hair because that’s where it needs to work its magic.

The consistency of the product is thick so a little goes a long way. The onion stench is perhaps my least favourite part of the process but without it, there’s no way to find out the oil is authentic. So I gladly and patiently sat through the two hours I had to keep it on.

It was easy enough to wash it off. You can shampoo twice if your hair is really greasy — mine always is because it’s so hot. But I could make do with my regular shampoo application.

The product also arrived with an anti-hair fall shampoo so I also gave that a shot. Unfortunately, I developed dandruff during this process so I stuck to using the oil without experimenting any further.

The oil left my hair feeling soft and smooth. After a week, I noticed my hair fall had reduced and after two weeks, I could spot patches of baby hair growing. There’s no way to confirm whether this growth is natural or because of a change in my haircare routine but I would like to believe it’s the latter.

As a person who struggles with hair loss and hair growth, I feel the product is doing its work but the only way to know for sure is to use it consistently — since my hair does feel silkier. You can also always make onion oil at home with tips from YouTube but since the product is priced at Rs1500, there’s no harm in trying it out!

I would give it a 3 out of 5 stars.

Rating: ★ ★ ★ ☆ ☆

This article is part of an ongoing series on supporting local products. All the products are independently evaluated and reviewed by a member of the Images team and reflect their personal opinions. If you’re a local business and would like to be featured, reach out to us at imagesdawndotcom@gmail.com.

Enter Klasyk Beauty, who sent us their liquid blushes to try. Named “The Blush” to avoid confusion, this liquid blush comes in three colours: My Peachy Weapon, Coral Spell, and I Slayed Barbie. They retail for Rs1,250 each and are currently on sale for Rs1,000 on their website.

The packaging of the product blew me away — it looked like a squeezable tube but was actually made of an acrylic-like plastic with a wand to dispense the product.

The blush claimed to be easy to blend, have a high pigment, and a long-wearing formula. So I put it to the test.

I received the shades My Peachy Weapon and Coral Spell, both of which are warm in tone, which isn’t my usual go-to, I’m more of a pink blush person. However, having recently switched to liquid blushes, I was still quite excited to try these out.

From the first time I tried the product, I was impressed with how pigmented it was. Just one dot on each cheek was enough, in fact, I managed to blend the product onto my nose as well. I had an inkling that a little would go a long way, so I applied it with my fingers before adding concealer. This way I could use my concealer to contain the blush and blend it into the rest of my makeup.

I highly suggest you use this product before concealer and definitely before powder for the most seamless finish. Their claim of a weightless formula is also true — it didn’t feel like I had an additional liquid product on my skin.

While powder blush usually disappears before the end of the workday, I noticed this liquid blush did not. I still had a flush of colour despite my oily skin, which I tend to dab at with oil-blotting sheets. I was really impressed with the lasting power of this blush.

I also tried using the peach blush as a colour corrector, and it worked! While the product does not claim to be a colour corrector, I found it worked on the areas of darkness around my mouth and under my eyes. It’s also important to note that I have slight discolouration and very pale skin, so this might not work for everyone.

I found that at Rs1,250, the price was steep, however, since you barely need a dot or two, it will last a long time. The colour range worked on my skin, but it might not work as well on deeper skin tones.

Rating: ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

I’ll rate this product 4 out of 5 stars for longevity, pigment, packaging, and working as a colour corrector on my skin. I’ve knocked off one point for price and limited shade range.

This article is part of an ongoing series on supporting local products. All the products are independently evaluated and reviewed by a member of the Images team and reflect their personal opinions. If you’re a local business and would like to be featured, reach out to us at imagesdawndotcom@gmail.com.

It was either that or allergic reactions to the sulfate or fragrance infused scrubs I was purchasing — I was young, dumb, and didn’t know what was good for me so quit your judging. But having had that terrible experience with mud packs of chunks, upon receiving the Aura Crafts package at work, I wasn’t very thrilled at the sight of a face scrub-cum-mask.

Made with pure rose oil, liquorice, oatmeal, sunflower oil, jojoba oil, and honey, the two-in-one scrub + mask promises to hydrate and firm your skin, fight pigmentation, improve elasticity and tighten dark spots. But would it deliver? There was only one way to find out.

Although I’m careful not to put anything on my face without doing a patch test first, I was intrigued enough to lather this product rather imperviously. Thankfully, there wasn’t any ill reaction, although I recommend you test the waters first. The oatmeal textured scrub offers a strong, rosy scent that may have you confuse it for an artificial fragrance but the Aura website assures that the product is synthetic fragrance-free, sulfate-free, paraben-free, artificial colour-free, carcinogen-free and cruelty-free.

It also crumbles in your hands so it’s best to purchase the Lift Me Up Correcting Scrub + Mask that comes with a spatula and mixing bowl so as to not waste the product — at least that’s what we received. The spatula can also be used as an applicator and helped evenly layer the paste on my skin.

The product is supposed to be mixed with rose water, water or milk to create a thick paste that can be used as both a scrub and mask. I chose to go for milk because of its added benefits and moisturising properties — considering I also have very dry skin. I used the product as both a scrub and mask as directed on the packaging, one after another. You can decide which one your skin needs at the moment and go for that. However, I really wanted to see how bad things can get and to my surprise, I wasn’t disappointed.

While most would choose to apply it first as a mask and then scrub it off while washing, I decided to scrub my skin first and then layer my face with the paste that I washed off gently with lukewarm water so as to close all my pores without leaving traces of bumps on my skin. Considering Lift Me Up Correcting Scrub + Mask is a physical scrub rather than a chemical one (the latter is generally milder), it’s best to use it gently. Thanks to the oatmeal chunks, though, it’s not harsh on your skin at all.

After applying it as a mask, I felt this cooling sensation on my face that was refreshing. However, if you’re averse to scents (synthetic or organic), it’s best to skip this product because it’s too aromatised — which is why I could only leave it on for seven to 10 minutes instead of completing the 15-minute mark.

Nevertheless, after washing it off, my skin felt instantly smooth and plump. There was also a hint of whiteness that thankfully faded in about five minutes. Having used it only once before writing this review, I cannot guarantee its long-term benefits or vice versa. But two days after its use and my skin hasn’t broken out and THAT is a huge plus!

In case you’re wondering whether this product is the best fit for you, there’s only one way to find out. Everyone’s skin is different and there’s no one-size fits all. But I’d recommend you give it a try — especially since it might not be the “best thing in the market” but it will restore your faith in face scrubs, just like it did mine.

The 70g Lift Me Up Correcting Face Scrub + Mask retails for Rs1,650 without the bowl and spatula, while the whole package is worth Rs2,340 — which is quite cheap considering the product should be used once a week and will potentially last you months.

I’ve rated it 3.5 rounded down to three for the sake of a whole figure.

Rating: ★ ★ ★ ☆ ☆

This article is part of an ongoing series on supporting local products. All the products are independently evaluated and reviewed by a member of the Images team and reflect their personal opinions. If you’re a local business and would like to be featured, reach out to us at imagesdawndotcom@gmail.com.

This is a love letter in many parts but the first one is a line of lipsticks made especially for desi skin tones. "We're trying to make everybody, whether you're fair, whether you're white, brown, green, a girl or whatever gender, I don't care — everybody should have the facility of waking up in the morning and going I'm fine, I'm beautiful, I'm awesome or if you're not feeling great, have a product that says yes you are, just put me on, I got you."

Khan's line of lipsticks features five shade spectrums — red, peach, pink, champagne and magenta — but all of them come with 'not just' before the name. That's because each lipstick has two separable ends — one featuring a lipstick or pigment glaze and the other featuring a liquid lipstick or pigment fluid. The idea is that you can wear either end on its own or mix them together to get your own perfect blend.

Pakistani women are no strangers to mixing lipstick shades. "We're used to mixing a lot of colours to get results so we were very passionate about creating things that just work. In fact that's one of our key phrases 'products that work for us straight out of the box'," Khan explained to Images.

The colours are special formulas Khan has been using throughout her career as a makeup artist and are meant to plug a gap in the market. She described it as a "solid core collection where you get all the things you need" and to create this collection, she partnered up with software engineering leader Madiha Chan.

"I don't want to make something that is the same thing [as what's already in the market]. I didn't want to mindlessly pump another red lipstick with a makeup artist's name on it so we found the holes in the market," she explained. Part of the allure of her collection is that they have targeted areas that desi women have struggled with and made an inclusive spectrum rather than just one lipstick colour. That way, it works for everyone.

One problem a lot of desi women face is finding a great peach as many shades make your skin take on a slightly greenish pallor. To solve that problem, Khan had to create a peach that works for our skin, with a pinky-brown base and beautiful rich brown toasty caramel backing. "This means that whatever your skin tone is, if you're warmer skinned, you can use a lot of the brown and less pink," she said. It's up to you to create the colour.

"Rather than saying here's one colour for everyone, which is obviously not going to work, we've tried to give spectrums of colour," explained the makeup artist. "You can make your colour, either one is quite wearable on its own, but...it's up to you to play within the very safe parameters of the spectrum," she said.

Their 'aha moment' is the fact that you can snap the lipstick in two. That means you can toss one end into your bag, swap it with another colour or maybe even share it with someone else. The lipsticks have two very different textures — one has a "yummy, juicy texture", think Bree Van De Kamp from Desperate Housewives, while the other is a liquid lipstick that acts as a mattifying agent. Both are advertised as having a rich pigment.

Another interesting feature of the liquid lipstick is the wand.

The bottle has a suction seal to prevent too much of the product from getting on the wand, especially because the actual formation is a bit "whipped". The shape of the wand itself is sort of triangular, so that, as Khan explained, you can hit those Grace Kelly angles. "We tried to think around all of the problems that annoyed us as consumers and gave you something that ticks all the boxes. We hope to get as close to making people go wow as possible."

Not a rushed decision

Chan said they came up with the idea of Just B 10 to 15 days before the pandemic and while it was tricky, they used the pandemic as an opportunity to create something you can wear under a mask. 

She uses the product herself and said for day to day looks, she wears the pigment glaze first and then seals it with the fluid so it doesn't move around.

The makeup line isn't, as many would assume, a response to the hit salons took during the pandemic. We wanted to make something for South Asian skin tones and address representation in the beauty industry, she said, adding that they had to get creative during the pandemic. "Things that could have happened much faster [were slowed down]," she said. The artwork and product development for the lipsticks all took place in California while the content formulation and assembly went down in Italy.

"The product finalised and became its thing during the pandemic but we had started the idea of building something before the pandemic started," she stressed.

Brown women deserve representation too

One of the biggest issues Khan and Chan hope to address with Just B is representation for South Asian women. The tones are wrong for us and advice also seems to be a bit off, noted Khan. When you go to a makeup counter or a dedicated makeup store and ask what to wear on your skin, the things they suggest rarely work, she said.

This, she said, is because makeup companies aren't really making products for our skin. The general global conversation on representation may be changing a bit with Fenty and the Black Lives Matter Movement but we're still almost invisible, she said.

One example of a token moment of representation is Indian makeup artist Mickey Contractor coming in for MAC and creating Mehr, a very, very popular lipstick shade that suits brown skin. "They know it's a hot seller so you would think [MAC] would address the needs of all these brown women but somehow we are constantly getting left out of this conversation."

The issue, Khan believes, is of pigment and not having the right depth and base tones to a product. The bright colours that work so well on paler skin don't always work on brown skin because, according to Khan, "we get left with the vibrant upper edge of a colour". "So when you put on a peach, all of the stuff that helps someone with a paler skin tone or non brown skin tone, we just eat that right up and all that's left is that explosive orange, so we look kind of gross in those peaches," she said.

One of the problems they have been keen to address is how to deliver colours that pop. So for Just B, Khan has created a line of pigment packed, rich lipsticks that you can use in just one swipe. They're actually worried about the other side of things — people using too much product.

The good thing is that Pakistani women have been very vocal in telling them what they want, according to Chan, be it on Instagram or Khan's YouTube channel.

"Most of us who have had a little bit of money and tried products know what doesn't work for us. What we're searching for is what can work for us, and we keep making these solutions happen." They arrived at a very logical conclusion — we aren't one dimensional, why should our products be?

This led to the colour spectrum in their products. "If you want to do a simple pink today, that's fine but if you want to do a punchy Sunday look , you should be able to do that and you shouldn't have to buy multiple products to do so," Chan explained. It's also more eco conscious to have two products in one, she added.

The two sides are full sizes and, according to Khan and Chan, the amount of product they're providing in each lipstick is more than other products. The price of a single lipstick is rather steep at Rs7,000 (or $38) but they reason that the consumer is getting two products in one.

L'Oreal's lipsticks aren't very far behind, Khan said, at Rs3,500 and people buy those like candy. She believes that Rs7,000 isn't an inconceivable spend considering the customer is getting two products and that people can be convinced to try one. She's also very confident that their products are such problem solvers that one won't be enough for most consumers.

The reaction to her lipsticks and the shades online has been positive so far, with people guessing the colours and some of the names — like the Kashmiri Chai — before they even dropped.

The little black dress of makeup

Initially, Khan wanted to call the company LBD — she wanted to make the little black dresses of makeup products that can be dressed up or down. It would be the core set of products that every woman needed.

The products are only available on the Just B website that went live today (October 21) but that doesn't mean people can't try them on. The website uses Augmented Reality to allow people to use the cameras on their phones to test out the lipsticks on themselves in real time. They can also upload pictures to see what the shades will look like.

Covid was one of the deciding factors for a website-only launch. Chan and Khan don't want to create a reason for people to be exposed.

They also aren't ready to disclose too much about their future plans because of the pandemic — it's too unpredictable and has already thrown many a plan for a loop. What they will say is that they want to cater to all the areas desi women struggle with.

We will always play with the concept of duality in our products, said Chan. Duality, she believes, is in the DNA of their brand — take the owners for example. Chan is a software engineering leader while Khan is a makeup artist — two very different fields. "Bringing innovation and experience together is our secret sauce. That's what makes us distinct and we want to keep bringing that in our products so you will see play with colour, textures, and the part that takes us longer is that we also want to deliver [our products] in a smart way."

Makeup with pyaar

The smart way, it seems, is to highlight desi skin tones rather than covering them up. Khan says the three models they chose for their campaign are of three different skin tones and aren't covered with "20 tonnes of makeup". "We were very specific about that. We [wanted] to honour each skin tone and make their skin as rich and beautiful as our desi skin [is]," she explained.

There's a lot of pyaar [love] going into this line and it even made Khan teary-eyed. "I accepted being a second class citizen in the beauty citizenship and now it's like someone cares about my face, my skin and me. The love we're putting into it is like saying 'you look so pretty girlfriend!'"

As a makeup artist, Khan has seen more than her fair share of desi skin and to her, it's all gorgeous. She sees a glow to our skin and has tried to incorporate that in her products. "We've tried to put that in the products and tried to have representation. If you see that you'll also believe it. If all you're being shown is blonde hair and blue eyes, no shade to people with blonde hair and blue eyes, but that's all we've been fed," she said. And she's fed up.

"We're trying to wear lenses and make ourselves white and all that jazz, but I think it's very important that we bring the representation for the love we have for warm skin to the table visually so girls can see themselves in these pictures and see themselves using the AR using these colours and feel that someone is looking at them and saying 'you're beautiful and you don't have to change yourself'. That's why the name, Just B, you can just be, you're good."

The makeup is the problem, not you!

One problem Khan sees as a makeup artist is that people don't seem to want to embrace their skin. Colourism is a huge issue in Pakistan and the rest of the Subcontinent and the battle to get women to love their skin colour is one Khan has been fighting for 25 years.

She acknowledges that there are a lot of reasons for people wanting to look fairer — classism, post-colonialism and a host of others — but it still genuinely shocks her when people say they don't like the colour of their skin. In the 90s, she saw pictures of supermodel Cindy Crawford who has "incredible caramel, tawny skin" and thought her look would be perfect to recreate in Pakistan but that was quite the opposite of what the brides who came to her wanted.

People come to her and reveal their insecurities which are almost always not as bad as they think. "Within our desi society of 'commenting love', we see people expressing love by saying 'acha beta we must fix your xyz', this is desi care but what it's doing is destroying everyone's self esteem!" she said.

Khan believes there's a lot of deep conditioning at play — "You've been convinced that there's something wrong with this, that's why just be."

She wants her fellow desi women to enjoy rich pigmented colours.

"Ladies, you're beautiful and blind to it. We are trying to shine a light on it. It's like, 'you are beautiful, here's stuff to make you realise you are beautiful'. No one has been looking at them that way or creating stuff for them," she lamented. "Imagine being a blue eyed blonde girl and putting on that bright peach in one swipe and being good to go. Why don't we deserve that?"

Most desi women look at the problem in the wrong way, believes Khan. "You don't think the lipstick is the problem, you think I'm the problem, there's something wrong with my skin," she said. People don't realise that the makeup is blind to you and the company doesn't want to make stuff for you.

"We have accepted low lying, incidental discrimination — you can call it by other names [and say] 'oh the market is not of interest — but even our own people, why has no one done this? Why is no one making a product [that] shows and enjoys the beauty of our skin tone?"

Chan said that's why they didn't go the route of private labelling, where manufacturers or companies can create 12 to 15 shades — your normal red, nude or something else along those lines — and artists can buy that range and just slap some branding on top. It take four to six months to come to market as the only thing that's left there is just the packaging, she explained. "And that's a viable option if you're addressing a skin tone that has been well addressed. For us though, that was a nonstarter."

Khan says this is not just a vanity product with her name on it in big lights. "I felt hurt hearing women go may itni woh hoon [I'm so that], no boo, you can't think like that! This is our love letter to desi women. You're stunning guys, and just a bit blind to it."

Only being able to buy body care products when a drop is announced every couple of months? Sounds ridiculous but count me in! I waited and waited and when I finally got the email saying their new batch of products had dropped, I ordered two things right away.

I hadn’t heard any reviews of The Magic Molecules, nor did I know anyone who had ordered from there before. But the fact that they only dropped their products every few months intrigued me and I’m happy to report that I did not waste my money.

I ordered their Foaming Sugar Scrub and their Scented Body Oil and this review is for the body oil.

So one fun fact about me is that I absolutely despise the natural smell of oils. Coconut oil sends me fleeing, as does mustard oil and most other scented oils. That’s why I love the concept of scented body oils — bring on the bubble gum and vanilla scents!

I got the Sugar Berry Body Oil, which comes in a 100ml bottle for Rs2,250. The price is a bit on the steeper side but the quantity is quite alright.

The oils used in the mixture are sunflower oil, jojoba oil, sweet almond oil, grapeseed oil, fragrance oil and Vitamin E oil, which are a moisturising mix. The feel isn’t too greasy

According to the brand, the oil has notes of strawberry, raspberry and vanilla.

One thing I love is how the oil is in a spray bottle. This may not be the first brand to put oil in a spray bottle, but it’s the first one I’ve used and it’s so smart! I’m not an oil girl — my skin produces enough oil that i’ve never seen a reason to add on more unless I’m getting a massage — but recently, my skin has gotten super dry and moisturiser just isn’t cutting it. Enter this fun spray bottle, that allows me to moisturise with oil without having to pour it into my hands. The spray makes application easy and, kind of fun, to be honest.

The scent stayed, but not in an overpowering way. It was more of a subtle scent that lingers softly, which I loved.

The only downside, in my opinion, is the plastic bottle. I think the product would get a more luxurious feel if it was in a glass bottle, but I also understand that that would increase the price. The overall packaging is very minimalist — which is great! — but I think the quality of the containers could be improved.

Rating: ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

This article is part of an ongoing series on supporting local products. All the products are independently evaluated and reviewed by a member of the Images team and reflect their personal opinions. If you’re a local business and would like to be featured, reach out to us at imagesdawndotcom@gmail.com.

I think the texture is great and very, very moisturising. It retails for Rs2,600 for a single lip cream, which I suppose is average. I’ve cheaper products and ones that are more expensive, so I suppose this falls somewhere in the middle.

I got two colours — 04 Runway and 03 Rose Sorbet — and I really like both the colour and coverage of both lip creams. Usually, when you go for lighter shades, the coverage suffers, but not in this case.

I wore Runway to a wedding — and made my friend wear it too — and both of us liked the texture and agree that it was pretty long-lasting. The colours looked great on both of us — if I do say so myself — and the products were easy to apply and reapply.

My friend thought it was very drying, but I have to disagree. I think it’s an incredibly creamy formula that is super moisturising. For me, the one downside is how much the product transfers. Exhibit A — my water bottle. Half the product seems to be on the bottle instead of my lips! I guess you could use the old setting powder trick to set the lipstick, but the idea is to have this creamy finish, which I think would be diminished greatly by using setting powder.

This isn’t a huge issue though, because though the colour seemed to be getting on everything, it wasn’t getting off my lips. You couldn’t tell that my bottle, tissue and food had lipstick on them because the colour remained as vibrant on my lips as when I first applied it.

While both colours looked good, I felt that Runway lasted longer and had a richer colour.

The Mineral Matte Lip Cream comes in eight shades and is available online and in J. stores.

I’m rating it four out of five — the transfer isn’t what you want but it’s an otherwise great product and I can see myself restocking it in my makeup bag once it runs out.

Rating: ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

This article is part of an ongoing series on supporting local products. All the products are independently evaluated and reviewed by a member of the Images team and reflect their personal opinions. If you’re a local business and would like to be featured, reach out to us at imagesdawndotcom@gmail.com.

A quick switch to sulfate-free shampoo L’Oreal proved to be a blessing until recently when unsettling images of Israeli atrocities in Gaza prompted me to join the collective boycott against products tied to Israel. Sadly, this meant bidding adieu to L’Oreal and searching for a worthy replacement.

Cue Pure Desi’s shampoo from their Baby Boo pack, a recommendation from my sister who successfully used it to combat my niece’s inherited frizz. Despite its baby-friendly label, I decided to give it a shot.

Priced at Rs500 for a 125ml bottle, the shampoo lasted almost two weeks with me washing my hair every day. I skip using it on Sundays because that’s when I oil my hair. I learned the hard way about the importance of using a shampoo with sulfates to effectively remove the oil from my hair.

According to the brand, the ingredients used to make the shampoo include glycerine, soap base, amla, shikakai, jojoba oil, coconut oil, coconut milk, and aloe vera, which all have a great impact on the hair. The fragrance-free formula was a promising start and a tablespoon sized amount of shampoo lathered my hair sufficiently.

While the initial impact was subtle, by the third day, the transformation was evident — smoother, frizz-free hair that allowed me to bid farewell to my straightener.

Not only did my hair gain a new bounce, but it also remained oil-free throughout the day, a departure from its usual greasy tendencies.

The brand’s claim of homemade products with fewer preservatives and freshly brewed essential ingredients holds. What set this purchase apart wasn’t just the positive impact on my hair — it extended to supporting the local economy, participating in the boycott against Israel, and embracing genuine, locally sourced products that safeguarded the health of my hair.

Looking back, it wasn’t just a shift in shampoo; it was a conscious choice aligned with principles and a testament to the effectiveness of locally crafted solutions.

Rating: ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

This article is part of an ongoing series on supporting local products. All the products are independently evaluated and reviewed by a member of the Images team and reflect their personal opinions. If you’re a local business and would like to be featured, reach out to us at imagesdawndotcom@gmail.com.

Smooth and supple skin is everyone’s dream. In the quest for my best skin yet, I took the plunge and got Pure Desi’s Special Ubtan. Run by a mother-daughter duo, Pure Desi has become quite the staple in my skincare regime. Before writing this review, I was going through my order history with them and I have been using their ubtan since 2021!

Growing up in a desi household, the foolproof skincare I knew of was “ubtan”. Elders swore that it gave you the best skin ever, getting rid of acne and dark spots, and revealing an even tone. While growing up, I found regular ubtan blends quite harsh on my skin. I had heard about Pure Desi’s revolutionary ubtan on some skincare forums. Back in 2021 when I was battling severe acne, I wanted to try a product that would gently exfoliate my skin to remove dead skin without aggravating my painful acne, and lo and behold, I came across this amazing product.

Enriched with kiwi, rose petals, sandalwood, and citrus peel powder, this gram flour-based ubtan (besan) made my skin feel soft and rejuvenated from the first try. The product claims to help with sun damage, dark patches, dark circles, skin damage, and dull skin. Of the five claims, I felt like the product was effective in nearly all areas mentioned, however, since an ubtan is a physical exfoliator, I did not use it under my eyes to prevent it from drying out, and since the skin in the area is so thin and sensitive.

In the two years I’ve been using this product, I’ve come to realise how integral this step has become in my PM skin routine. I tend to use the ubtan after my cleanser at least four times a week. I make a paste with water and massage it on my skin for a minute, in gentle circular motions. My skin instantly feels refreshed and my makeup sits better on the skin with regular use. In addition, I have found the product to maintain my skin’s moisture levels, even though besan typically dries out the skin. The gentle exfoliation provided by the ubtan has also had a significant impact on the acne scarring left behind on my face.

Pure Desi’s Special Ubtan comes in a basic packaging and since the products are homemade, the business notifies customers that the products will be prepared and shipped out in 10 working days. As for the price of the product, I got it for Rs900, however, Pure Desi regularly runs discounts and special offers on its products. I must add that one tub of their Special Ubtan lasts me a good three to four months, providing great value for money.

My overall rating for this product would be a 5/5 since it ticks all the right boxes — value for money, high-quality ingredients, and visible results with regular use.

Rating: ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

This article is part of an ongoing series on supporting local products. All the products are independently evaluated and reviewed by a member of the Images team and reflect their personal opinions. If you’re a local business and would like to be featured, reach out to us at imagesdawndotcom@gmail.com.

While we keep sharing quotes about the worth of inner loveliness, reality begs to differ. Our growing beauty industry tells a story of consistent dissatisfaction with the image of our physical self. I have found out that entrepreneurs and consumers related to our beauty industry are greatly inspired by popular influencers on social media platforms Instagram and TikTok, such as Merium Pervaiz, Dolly, Nadia Hussain, Kashee, Merub Ali and many more. The insights I have gained, though, may not be surprising for any South Asian as the average woman’s ideal appearance includes skin-lightening, bari bari ankhein (big, beautiful eyes) and a slim visage.

However, pale or fair skin, AKA gori rangat, is on top of the social checklist of ideal beauty in Pakistan. The descriptor “kaala”, which literally means dark, is a popular slur reserved for people belonging to a socially and economically underprivileged class. Lighter skin tones have a high social capital in communities of colour around the world and this capital increases considerably when coupled with a lack of education.

The social discourse on beauty in Pakistan begins and ends around “white” skin. Ninety per cent of our beauty industry comprises of services that turn on the “glow” and up the “brightness” of women, especially women of a marriageable age.

Differences between parlours on issues related to hygiene, technology and style preferences vary as socio-economic boundaries do. But before thinking about beauty, one must note the structural nuances of our parlours.

Bara parlour, acha parlour and ghar mein parlour

In everyday Pakistani discourse, salons are largely divided into three main categories: bara (big) parlour, acha (good) parlour and ghar mein (in a house) parlour.

Bara parlour

The big parlours usually have descriptors like “clinic” and “salon” in their nomenclature, for example, Depilex Beauty Clinic and Institute and Madeeha’s Bridal Salon and Studio, etc. They are multi-million-rupee setups that branch out in various directions of cosmetic surgery, laser and spa treatments, and teaching schools. Such top beauty businesses have units spread all over the country, which include teaching institutes that offer certificate and diploma courses.

Each branch of every bara parlour is situated in an elite or upper-middle-class area, like Gulberg and DHA in Lahore. Their long list of beautification services includes innumerable types of facial massages, skincare, body therapies, hair colouring treatments, makeup and so on. The top-tier parlours have extravagant interiors and trained staff, mostly operating with a pre-booking system for clients. These parlours get huge fan followings through their involvement with the entertainment industry and consistent marketing by glamorous celebrities.

Acha parlour

The second-tier achey parlours do not have a famous brand but are recognised as the best in their upper-middle-class posh localities (Iqbal Town or Johar Town, etc). They assume a soft stance of direct competition with big parlours and take immense pride in their performance.

Saira Dar, a young entrepreneur running an acha parlour called Icandy in Izmir Town, shared her firm belief that “passion and interest” are the key qualities that make a successful beautician. This parlour, situated in a posh gated community, does not have the lavish interior or the vast space that is the hallmark of a bara parlour but it does have significant prestige in the vicinity.

Dar and her assistant manager Najia told Images about how their clients bring photographs of social media celebrities as examples of the kind of look they want for themselves. The beauticians talked about the “unrealistic expectations” and problematic aesthetic consciousness of many women who visit them for services.

“The pictures that women bring with them are always taken with lots of filters on. The trouble is that they want us to give them scar-less, spotless skin in real life. That too without using any filters.” The team at Icandy shared that they are always grateful for appreciative and kind clients as opposed to the irritating ones who have lots of expectations and often disrespectful behaviour towards the staff.

Ghar mein parlour

Parlours in the third category are very small-scale setups, established in one room of the entrepreneur’s house. The ghar mein type of parlours are the most visited places in lower-middle and lower socio-economic areas, and yet they are the most invisible spaces.

My survey of a few such parlours in the low-income residential area of Chung showed that the primary beauty services offered there are skin and hair lightening through one basic ingredient — bleaching powder.

The three beauticians interviewed for this writeup shared that their clients are not interested in the various services offered by the achey parlours. “Our customers only want to be gori [light skinned] and don’t want to pay us any money for that. So the chemicals we use must be very cheap,” explained one beautician.

By chemicals, they mean hydrogen peroxide. The women were hesitant to admit that their clients have recurring issues of fungal infections and chemical induced burns and refused to acknowledge how it’s related to the overall lack of cleanliness and unhygienic practices.

Cross parlour-ing by upper and middle-class Pakistani women

Upper and middle class Pakistani woman mostly frequent the achey parlours for regular services like haircuts, hair dyes, eyebrow tweaking, whitening facials, manicures and pedicures. Sometimes, loyal upper-middle class clients of the achey parlours choose a bara parlour for their bridal makeup.

Twenty female clients of both achey and barey parlours were interviewed for this story. It is a common practice for Pakistani brides-to-be to get a massage, facials and other body treatment services from an acha parlour and get their bridal makeup from a bara parlour. To quote one client named Sara, “I love my parlour (referring to the acha parlour in her neighbourhood), but you can’t take any risk on your big day. Anything can go wrong, you know. There are no guarantees unless it’s a bara parlour.”

Standards of beauty and 50 shades of white

After visiting parlours across Lahore, I found that beauty is a very classed concept. For instance, the bridal makeup in top-tier parlours focuses on retaining the actual skin tone of the brides while enhancing their facial features. The second-tier parlours have a different clientele and while they are knowledgeable about skin tones, they feel restricted by the consumers’ demands.

Icandy’s Dar shared that young girls between the ages of 18 and 20 are usually happy and comfortable with their own skin “but the rage of being white is so overwhelming”. When I asked a 25-year-old client of a top-tier parlour about the services she usually gets from the place, her top priority was a hydra whitening facial. “Everyone likes fair complexions and if you are not fair, then you will look like you do not care for yourself, like you don’t bother. So koi nai karta aisa [no one does that],” she said.

Skin-lightening practices change their nomenclature and structure as one moves from elite to lower-class areas.

Skin whitening in top-tier parlours

There is an extensive usage of glutathione in top-tier salons and clinics through injections, intravenous infusions and capsules. An inquiry made to Zarpash Beauty Clinic in Gulberg revealed that one injection costs around Rs15,000 and a person needs a minimum of 14 injections for the whiteness to be “absorbed completely”. Clients are required to bring their renal and liver function test reports on their first visit.

Injections are also used to dissolve body fat and thread lift treatments are used to erase wrinkles. Beauty clinics give High Intensity Focused Ultrasounds for face lifts and collagen improvement. Aesthicare Clinic in New Town charges Rs70,000 for a one-time session for half the face.

Skin whitening in middle-tier parlours

The whitening and brightening practices are modified in the middle-tier parlours where the customers must suffice with a variety of moderately priced facials. Women demand “glass skin”, “dewy look”, and a “flawless finish”. Some achey parlours have started offering botox lip filler services as well to their upper-middle-class clients.

Skin whitening in lower income parlours

All skin-lightening treatments in the lower income ghar mein parlours begin and end with hydrogen peroxide, lovingly known as “bleach”. This chemical is mixed with equal quantities of fabric washing detergents if some occasional fancy customer demands a manicure or pedicure. Otherwise, the bleach solution is used for immediate whitening of skin and to give the hair a yellowish tint.

Another favourite amongst the third-tier parlours is starch or amylum masks. Starch is mixed with water, and sometimes with bleach, to produce faux facelifting impact. The signature panacea for all skin problems provided by these parlours is the combination cream, which is a mixture of eight steroid-based creams and ointments that are banned in many countries.

Apart from the skin-lightening trend, another trend is for an eye makeover that increases the actual size of the eyes and makes them look larger. Lower edges of the eyes are lined with a white liner to make them look more open or khuli hui. This trend is limited to the parlours in the first two tiers. Clients of the ghar mein parlours prefer going for smoky eye shades and a hefty dose of black liner on the upper lids.

Some not-so-pretty conclusions

It can be safely concluded that fair skin, big eyes and a slim face cut are the crux of Pakistani women’s never-ending quest for beauty. We can argue that the beauty trends have been perpetuated by social media influencers who promote a particular styles of hair and makeup. Beauty parlours like Kashee’s have huge fan following on social media, influencers like Merium Pervaiz have their own makeup lines and TikTokers like Dolly have salons that fall into the first category of parlours, only one level below the established names in the industry.

The theme of whiteness runs in all products and discourse related to beauty, but the choice of words has changed over the years in polite social circles. The big parlours or influencers seldom use words that directly mean “white”. Rather, a nuanced vocabulary is developed by those at the helm of the beauty industry, including expressions like “fresh skin”, “glow”, “dewy finish”, “natural skin”, “flawless tones” and so on. An average woman naturally constructs a social schema that translates all such veiled jargon to the ideal state of being “white” while living in a country with many shades of brown.

The trend of skin-lightening, however, existed long before the age of influencers and has been analysed often as a byproduct of the colonisation of South Asia. Steve Garner and Somia Bibi note in their recent research that colonial rule influenced “social hierarchies and imaginaries, associating Whiteness with power and beauty”. The quest of gora rang may not exactly translated into a desire to be gori, but rather to enjoy the social benefits associated with light skin tones.

And why not, when the entertainment industry sells the idea of these benefits so well? The idea of dark skin tones as the epitome of ugliness is perpetuated by popular shows like Parizaad, where the fair-skinned Ahmed Ali Akbar, the main character, gets a black-face makeover to represent someone unattractive.

Ninety-eight per cent of television actors have ethereal fair skin and some actors, like Hira Mani, have often discussed their usage of whitening injections. This cultural perception of white as the epitome of beauty can only change by raising the level of social awareness through quality education for everyone. This may sound like a grand utopian vision, but it’s still many steps behind the khuli eyes version of fairness that we collectively seek.

“Girls as young as 16 were walking around with visibly plumped up lips,” the Karachi-based dermatologist says.

Shortly after, the Covid-19 pandemic swept the country and the government shuttered all non-essential businesses. But even during the lockdown, Dr Qureshi was getting calls from people wondering if she’d make an exception and see them for their routine Botox appointments.

“I was thinking ‘who is even seeing your face right now?’"

When she was finally given the green light to reopen, Dr Qureshi did her best to be careful. But in June a client failed to mention that he had traveled right before his appointment.

“He was so desperate to get his injections, to look more chiseled, that he basically came straight to my clinic from the airport. Because of that I had to close for another two weeks,” laughs Dr Qureshi.

Every person I spoke to for this article told similar stories: of dedicated patients willing to overlook the pandemic, lockdown restrictions and their fear of needles, all in the name of eternal youth.

All this begs a necessary question: what are injectables and why the hype?

Commonly known as Botox or fillers, injectables are chemical substances that are inserted into the skin with a needle. And while the two words are frequently used interchangeably, Botox and fillers accomplish very different things.

Botox is a neurotoxin that temporarily paralyses a muscle preventing it from contracting. Fillers, on the other hand, help reduce facial wrinkles and folds (such as smile lines), contour the body (such as reducing the appearance of a double chin) and restore facial volume to the areas of the face that, with age, tend to lose volume (like the cheeks and lips).

To better understand this, put down the device you’re reading this on and take a look at yourself in the mirror. Scrunch your eyebrows together. The lines that appear between your brows are a muscle that a Botox injection can help relax and smoothen out. Next, look at yourself in selfie mode on your phone camera using one of Instagram’s filters. The plumped up lips, foxy-looking eyes and lifted cheeks looking back at you? That is the sort of thing that can be achieved with fillers.

Put your best face forward

The physicians I spoke to for this story unanimously agree: social media apps (like Instagram) are behind the uptick in cosmetic procedures, including injectables. And although revolutions are typically driven by the young, this revolution is not confined by age or gender.

“Everyone is doing it now. It’s become normal,” says Dr Qureshi. “I am half Iranian. And with Iranians it was always common [to have work done] at a young age. In their early 20s, girls would get a boob and a nose job. Sometimes they even had liposuction or put in gastric balloons for weight loss purposes. Mothers would bring in their daughters. In Pakistan, it’s a mix. Some mothers are progressive or proactive about it. But the majority of patients hide it from their parents and husbands and generally don’t want people to know.”

The rise of filtered reality has opened up a chasm between our digital and real selves. And savvy and skilled dermatologists, plastic surgeons and nurse injectors have rushed to fill the void.

Many physicians I spoke to say they use digital editing apps like FaceTune to discuss treatment options with their patients.

“People don’t come in wanting to look exactly like a particular celebrity. Instead, they’ll want certain features enhanced like how a celebrity has done,” explains Dr Qureshi.

“For example, many patients ask for Kylie’s lips, Deepika Padukone’s sharp jaw or Kareena Kapoor’s cheekbones.”

While Dr Qureshi personally thinks that seeing so much filtered, edited perfection is bad for the human mind, she sees firsthand how injectables can be a positive boost to a person’s self esteem.

“Many patients ask for Kylie’s lips, Deepika Padukone’s sharp jaw or Kareena Kapoor’s cheekbones.”

“I’ve seen some really pretty girls ruin their face because [injectables] can easily become an obsession. Say, you get lip filler and you like it so you go back before you need to and get more and more.”

Lahore-based dermatologist Dr Amna Ahmar echoes this.

“The media, in general, plays a big role [with self-perception] and now with social media there’s just a lot more awareness of how we look and how we age. I have people bringing in pictures of celebrities or influencers they follow saying ‘I want to look like that’,” she says.

According to Dr Ahmar, cosmetic procedures are Pakistan’s new trend.

“People follow people they want to look like. And we can help create that look. If people get satisfaction and peace with looking a certain way, then there’s nothing wrong with that.”

Most of Dr Ahmar’s patients bring in pictures of the infamous Kardashian-Jenner sisters. She also frequently has patients request Anushka Sharma’s features and Kareena Kapoor’s jawline. She doesn’t see many patients requesting to look like Pakistani celebrities, however.

“A year ago a lot of people were asking for chin filler because it was trending at their tea parties. But not everyone needs their chin elongated. I used apps to show patients how an elongated chin would look on them to confirm that’s what they wanted. If they still wanted it, I had them sign a written consent form saying it was their choice,” explains Dr Ahmar.

Shh, it’s a secret

Along with wanting to look a certain way, Pakistani patients put a premium on the discretion and minimal downtime that come with injectables, especially when compared to more invasive, traditional plastic surgery procedures.

According to Dr Anam Falak, South Asian women are very wary of their husbands and families. “They want minimal downtime, minimal bruising and as less healing [time] as possible. This is why my most popular procedures are lip fillers and under eye fillers,” she says.

Dr Falak, who sees patients both in the UK and in Pakistan, says the biggest difference between her two patient populations is that her Pakistani patients are far more secretive.

“My patients are not going home and telling their families what they have done. They don’t share my name with their friends. Whereas in the UK, one client will bring in five other friends,” she says. “I would love to get rid of the stigma [around injectables]. It’s normal. We all age. And if you treat these procedures as anti-ageing procedures it can be very beneficial. For example, if you take care of your under-eyes at a younger age — say, by getting under eye fillers in your late 30s or early 40s, then that area won’t have thinned out by your 50s and it’s just easier to maintain.”

For Dr Falak, injectables are simply a part of the limited self-care options available to Pakistani women.

“Historically, skincare hasn’t been the most important thing on the minds of Pakistani women,” she points out. “Most women in this country are homemakers. They cook and do housework in the heat. They don’t get time to take care of their skin as much. They assume that getting a blow dry, buying a nice outfit and doing their makeup is enough to look great. What they don’t realise is that things like your lips losing volume with age or deep under eye hollows are actually making them look older and more tired. No amount of makeup can conceal that.”

Trendsetting

Pakistanis may have just started to truly embrace the $8 billion injectables industry, but injectables are not new to Pakistan.

Dr Mabroor Bhatty, who is widely credited for introducing Botox to Pakistan in the early 2000s, spoke to me late last year. According to Dr Bhatty, initially no salon owner wanted injectables offered at their salons because they (falsely) assumed that by smoothing out their clients’ wrinkles, there would be a reduction in the demand for salon services like facials. Dr. Bhatty had to explain that injectables like Botox complement and enhance topical procedures like facials.

“It’s all about trust. If you trust your sabziwala [vegetable seller], you’ll go to Nazimabad for him.”

Today, Dr Bhatty’s black book is no joke. People wait for him to travel to Pakistan and he counts the crème de la crème of Pakistan as his patients.

“People come to me after things go wrong at fancy clinics in the US and UK. I have overseas Pakistanis who will fly to Pakistan from the US just to see me,” says the doctor who, in the last decade, has made over 99 trips to Karachi. “It’s all about trust. If you trust your sabziwala [vegetable seller], you’ll go to Nazimabad for him.”

Despite the increase in demand, injectables are not a pocket-friendly on-the-whim purchase. To start, because the body eventually dissolves both Botox and most fillers, clients who start injectables are looking at a lifetime commitment, unless they decide to go for a more permanent fix like plastic surgery. Second, the price tags on reputable brands of injectables are out-of-control high.

Consider one syringe of Restylane (a popular filler used for lips), which, if done by a reputable injector, will set you back Rs40,000. A syringe is just a millilitre of product, which measures out to be about one-fifth of a teaspoon. That’s not a lot of product — especially if you’re looking to restore volume to a large surface area like your cheeks.

And unlike the US, where the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) heavily regulates the injectables industry, Pakistani injectors have easy, unregulated access to cheaper European, Korean and Chinese injectables. This increases the risk to patients.

Still, the price and the risk has done little to stem demand for injectables.

According to Karachi-based dermatologist Dr Tasneem Nakhoda, because of procedures like injectables, her patients no longer need to go under the knife to look younger or feel prettier.

And, according to actor, dentist and injector Nadia Hussain, injectables are now considered par for the course for Pakistan’s film and TV industry.

“Like everyone else, celebrities have also become more critical of themselves now. They constantly see themselves on TV or have their pictures circulating on social media and become aware more quickly that they are ageing. They’ll notice that they look different than they did just a few years ago,” says Hussain.

“It’s all a race for followers. More brands come to actors with more followers. These actors then get to charge more for their drama serials. There’s just so much more opportunity,” she explains. “This is why celebrities are getting treatments done a whole lot younger. To stay relevant.”

Hussain, who treats many of her celebrity colleagues at her salon, tells me that even her male colleagues are not immune to the gravity-defying effects of injectables.

“Botox and fillers are common for male actors. Most younger female celebrities start out with lip fillers. That’s where it all starts. Usually, these same celebrities will then return to have the under-eye area filled because of the dark, deep circles that are caused by extreme work hours, dehydration and exhaustion. Celebrities in their 30s usually come in wanting fillers or threads for laugh lines or cheeks,” says Hussain.

It’s not just celebrities turning to injectables to ramp up their relevance. Hussain frequently works with housewives who turn to cosmetic procedures like injectables because they feel they have lost their husband’s attention or worry their husbands are being unfaithful.

“A lot of time women will come in who realistically can’t afford the treatment but still want something done because they feel their husbands are losing interest in them. They feel their husbands are moving on because the wives don’t look the same. Of course, this is not a solution. It’s just a fix in their mind,” laments Hussain.

And herein lies the dark lining to the puffy, white cloud that is eternal youth.

Not only do these clients have to be prepared for a long-term commitment, they also have to be able to pay upfront for services. That’s because unlike their Western counterparts, Pakistani practitioners do not offer payment plans or instalment contracts.

“To be honest, my clients are middle to upper class only. There’s less awareness and education in the lower classes,” says Dr Falak. “A lot of my patients are working women. Very few take the money from their husbands.”

Dr Bhatty’s experience is similar.

“Everyone wants to look better but within their means. Since there are no financing plans in Pakistan, patients pay out-of-pocket. Oftentimes, it’s cash — money they’ve taken from their allowance or the money they were given for groceries,” he says, adding, “the cost can get high. I won’t name names, but I know people in Pakistan who are hard sellers. They will inject Rs100,000 worth of fillers in one go. I can’t imagine how much filler that is.”

Slippery slope

The underlying current to my conversations with Pakistan’s injectors is that injectables can achieve only so much.

Indeed, Dr Nakhoda’s magic hands, Dr Falak, Dr Ahmar and Dr Qureshi’s artistic eyes, or Dr Bhatty’s black bag (a la Jason Bourne’s burn bag — except instead of passports it has syringes), can only take us so far.

In other words, Botox and fillers cannot magically translate into self-acceptance and fulfilment.

According to a recent Stanford study, seeing ourselves constantly on video chats has resulted in a new level of fatigue. Dubbed “Zoom fatigue”, this excessive amount of constant, close-up eye contact is both highly intense and highly exhausting for those of us who, because of work or school, find ourselves having to spend even more time staring at our reflections on computer screens.

Add to this the near daily act of smoothing, stretching, blurring and polishing that we all do for our pictures and videos, and what remains is an ego-shattering, massively exhausting crash course in the art of human insecurity.

As a friend recently said to me, “perhaps, on some level, we’ve all absorbed the message that we are measurable and modifiable commodities that are wanting and so can be improved upon. The byproduct of reducing our self-worth as measurable in likes, shares and follows.”

A risky venture

Injectables can be a risky venture in the wrong hands. According to the experts Images spoke to, the Pakistan Medical Association requires that injectors be board-certified doctors. But enforcement is at best shoddy and at worst nonexistent. This means unlicensed, untrained injectors can easily get their hands on product and set up a practice.

According to Dr Ahmar, “it may look very easy to do these things...to just poke a syringe into the face. But it’s one of the most dangerous treatments. No matter how many years I’ve been doing it, how well-versed I am in facial anatomy, I’m still aware of how blind we are to what is under the skin.”

Equally problematic is the flood of bad products in the Pakistani injectable market. According to Dr Bhatty, there is no authorised injectables dealer in Pakistan, which means he has to travel with his own products. And, according to Dr Ahmar, local injectors frequently turn to cheaper alternatives (like cheap, diluted Chinese fillers) so that they can charge their clients less. These cheaper alternatives often come with their own set of risks because around the world injectables are regulated as medical devices not drugs, which means they don’t go through the same rigorous clinical safety trials that normal medicines undergo.

Power players

All of this makes an injector a powerful player in a potentially dangerous game.

“I refuse to see pictures of influencers or celebrities that patients bring in. If I feel something is not right for my patient, I’m not going to do it,” says Dr Bhatty.

Similarly, Dr Falak talks about patients who come in with false hopes or unrealistic expectations of what they think they need versus what they actually need.

“I don’t want to give people completely new faces. I want them to embrace their beauty and use [injectables] only to emphasise it. So, I’ll tell my patients to look at a mirror and tell me what they think is “wrong”. If you have a nice nose with a slight hook, I’m not going to tell you to get a nose job because you already have a beautiful nose. I’ll suggest just a bit of filler to straighten things out. Same thing with patients who already have nice lips. I won’t let them turn it into a duck pout. Instead, I’ll recommend they simply define their lips with a bit of filler,” says Dr Falak.

“It should be about what is least invasive but also offering people an option. And it’s about having the right guidance.”

Art by Momina Yasir

In essence, why propagate this bias when even the core ingredients in making all fragrances and scents are fundamentally the same? I have, at times, thought about all these things, and it simply seems like a misconception manufactured by the gods of capitalism to manipulate our preferences and maximise their profits.

As a woman, I’ve always been drawn to what are commonly labelled as strong and sharp ‘masculine’ fragrances, the very scents I admire when worn by men. Yet, I find it baffling when I don’t find such smells in the women’s section of the store.

Perhaps this is why I discovered Zaviha’s Mystic Blaze unisex perfume to be the perfect fit for my preferences. A rendition of the much pricier Baccarat Rouge 540, Mystic Blaze offers a long-lasting, bold aroma that exudes power and exhilaration in just the right measure.

A smell that radiates boss-like energy and a distinct aura that certainly can make anyone feel like the confident one in any boardroom meeting. Moreover, it is fairly empowering in the evening time as well, when its soft notes — which are more floral — take control. Honestly, the whole transition feels like the day in the life of a successful leader, regardless of their gender.

My only critique is about the packaging of the product. The glass bottle carrying the 30 ml liquid has room for improvement, including the cap and the sprayer, to enhance the overall customer experience. Since the brand is still in its early stages, it’s understandable that there may be some initial oversights; however, the packaging is a significant consideration, particularly for introducing a unisex perfume in Pakistan — a rarity as many leading brands neglect this market.

Currently priced at Rs2,240 after a discount, I find the Mystic Blaze to be affordable and definitely worth it because of its long-lasting scent (it lingers even after you wash your clothes!). It is a definite choice for today — when all genders are breaking free from stereotypical norms and embracing scents that resonate with them personally.

So go ahead and embrace the fragrances that truly speak to you!

Rating: ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

This article is part of an ongoing series on supporting local products. All the products are independently evaluated and reviewed by a member of the Images team and reflect their personal opinions. If you’re a local business and would like to be featured, reach out to us at imagesdawndotcom@gmail.com.

Enter Aura Crafts’ Strawberry Cleansing Bar. You can call it a cleansing bar, but what it really is is a bar of soap. One that smells great and doesn’t make me want to chuck it out the window.

When Aura Crafts sent us a package of their products, I wasn’t very enthused at the sight of the soap. I don’t like the feel of soap on my face — it leaves a rubbery feeling that makes me want to go in with a liquid face wash. I’ve also never really felt like soap cleans my face.

But I was determined to be a proper reviewer and actually review the soap, despite my aversion to it. And what I found was interesting. It still gave my skin that slightly rubbery texture, but it wasn’t a bad feeling. In fact, I’ve actually started using the soap in place of my CeraVe gentle cleanser — to give my skin a break, I alternate between a stronger cleanser and a gentle one. Aura Crafts’ Cleansing Bar was good enough to use to take off my sunscreen and the general dirt that builds up throughout the day and leave my skin feeling clean.

The bar may seem low, but for me it was the floor when it came to soaps.

It’s priced at Rs630 but is currently on sale for Rs567. But even at the original price, I think it’s an absolute steal. I’ve been using the bar for about three weeks now and I haven’t really made much of a dent in it. Granted, I don’t use a lot.

One thing that might be off-putting to people is the scent. Personally, I quite like the strawberry scent but my entire bathroom now smells like it 24/7. I can definitely see someone getting tired of this everlasting smell pretty soon.

The brand says their soap is 100 per cent natural and handcrafted and recommends this one in particular for combination skin. “This Strawberry Soap Bar is high in antioxidant content and works like a natural brightener. This soap lightens blemishes and scars, fights acne and regenerates skin cells,” it claims on its website. I don’t know about fighting acne and lightening blemishes, but it does have a brightening effect, which I quite liked.

The ingredients listen on the website include a lot of oils, beeswax, lye and aqua. I don’t know how the composition of soap works, to be very honest, but one thing I’d love would be for them to use a little less lye, just to remove that slightly rubbery feeling. But that’s me nitpicking.

Four and a half stars rounded down to four because it’s soap after all.

Rating: ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

This article is part of an ongoing series on supporting local products. All the products are independently evaluated and reviewed by a member of the Images team and reflect their personal opinions. If you’re a local business and would like to be featured, reach out to us at imagesdawndotcom@gmail.com.