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In surprise move, Bunto Kazmi's son opens his first menswear store

In surprise move, Bunto Kazmi's son opens his first menswear store

Ali Kazmi chose to have a quiet opening instead of creating the usual hype
03 Nov, 2016

An unassuming store in Karachi’s KDA area declares ‘Kazmi Menswear’.

It’s an exterior that belies the classy sartorial choices that lie within — well-conceived, stylish, a rarity in the erstwhile market for tailored menswear.

One would have expected the son of acclaimed couturier Bunto Kazmi to open his first menswear store with hype, hoopla and tall claims. Instead, Ali Kazmi chose to slip into retail very quietly a month and a half ago, letting the designs do the talking and word of mouth build publicity.

In today’s world of social media, drum-beating and paid reviews, it is a strategy that is something of an anomaly. One wouldn’t recommend it, except that it may just manage to work for Ali. There is a certain finesse to his work that one doesn’t see in the motley crew of menswear brands fumbling their way through the local market.

The random fashion-blinded dandy may get enamoured by Bollywood-like multi-colours and kurtas teemed with dupattas but Ali is designing for the true savants instead — and given the dearth of options in the market, they are bound to stumble into his shop sooner or later.

The atelier is small but stylish — the floor is a glossy black and white parquet, the chairs have leather finishes, the walls are in shades of wooden burgundy and all around, there are framed images of fashion icons through history: maharajas and politicos giving their nod of approval to this burgeoning business. There is a small statue of a markhor in a corner, emulating Ali’s logo, which features a ‘K’, beset by two markhors and a chakor — the family name melded with patriotic emblems.

On the clothing racks, you are particularly swept by sleek sherwanis, dealt with a side-order of kurtas, waistcoats, blazers and men’s shirts. The choices are clean and refined although very limited — for Ali has just started out and is primarily creating clothes on order right now — but what you see is menswear the way it should be, the way it hardly ever is.

The random fashion-blinded dandy may get enamoured by Bollywood-like multi-colours and kurtas teemed with dupattas but Ali is designing for the true savants instead — and given the dearth of options in the market, they are bound to stumble into his shop sooner or later.

A few turquoise and pink kurtas are hidden away in the back — they have been created specifically for clients and don’t really emulate Ali’s ethos. Instead, the eye is drawn to meticulous old-school sherwanis in pristine white, ivory and beige. A selection of waistcoats hang to one side, the blazers have sleek, precise lapels and there is a smattering of stiff-collared kurtas that can be bought off-the-rack. The shoulder pads have been imported and so is the fabric, predominantly linen and cotton from Italy.

There is also pure jamawar, brocade and karandi, procured locally. “I tried using local latha for the kurtas but the white would get tinged with a slight pink or blue after a few washes,” explains Ali, “and to me, the quality of the fabric I use is extremely important. Italian fabric is breathable and lightweight and it works well with our weather.”

Quite in contrast to his mother, who is famous for her passion for delicate embroideries, Ali believes that tailoring is the most important aspect of the best menswear. The embroidery is sparse — a tiny logo here and there or a sliver of thread-work around the neckline. Instead, there are buttons, selected carefully: made of mother-of-pearl or horn, again, imported from Italy.

“I want men to come into this store and appreciate the subtleties in the design, the way a pocket is placed, the buttons, how the collar stays stiff and a sherwani will never split open down the middle when the wearer sits down,” says Ali. “I believe that this is my brand’s forte and it will appeal to men who have hitherto had no choice but to buy their shirts from abroad.”

Although there are plans to launch an economically-priced machine-made line as the business grows, bespoke apparel has the option of being constructed the traditional way, over a horse-hair canvas. “The canvas forms a layer under the fabric and it makes the garment more supple, taking on the shape of the wearer’s body over time. It allows the clothes to be worn for longer, simply because they don’t get deformed and the fit is exceptional,” says Ali.

The attention to detail and fit is refreshing, especially in a sphere where even established menswear labels are unable to understand sizing and men’s fashion is showcased in unfathomable neons and effeminate embroideries. The sartorial options for men purported in local fashion, in fact, often fail to make much sense on the catwalk, let alone appeal in daily life.

Ali Kazmi has just started out. He’s catering to a niche market and it remains to be seen whether he’ll manage to harness the colossal requirements of retail. One also wonders if in this age of advertising, his subtle ways will last in the long haul.

His mother has long been setting benchmarks for bona fide bridal design and craft; maybe he’ll manage to do the same for menswear, somewhere along the line.


Originally published in Dawn, Sunday Magazine, October 30th, 2016

Comments

a Nov 03, 2016 03:13pm
Is Bunto Qazmi related to Sahira and Rahat ?
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aslam shaikh Nov 03, 2016 03:55pm
Pink socks?? What is he trying to tell us?
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H Nov 03, 2016 04:07pm
@a no relation to Sahira and Rahat. Bunto is Anwar Maqsood's niece.
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shahzad Nov 03, 2016 04:26pm
Old fashioned looks . floor and interior add up.
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Amjad Wyne Nov 03, 2016 06:44pm
I like Ali's bright pink socks......they are soooo cutting edge!!! I wish I could find those in the men's section in our department stores. Hopefully Ali's new store will offer the choices that Pakistani men really need.
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ZQ Nov 03, 2016 07:06pm
@aslam shaikh what he is trying to tell you is that he can wear any coloured socks that he likes!
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Your brother in Islam from Pak! Nov 03, 2016 08:33pm
@ZQ Yes we know that, can you think beyond that where we heading?
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Amjad Wyne Nov 03, 2016 08:36pm
@sYEDCHAUDHRYGANGAdINkhan ... The way I see it, their presence and enormous success proves hypocrisy of our culture and society...it shows how removed we are from the "moral values" we profess.
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khan Nov 03, 2016 08:59pm
Pink socks are fine with what he is wearing but these days you don't wear long socks. He needs updating his fashion knowledge. As a matter of fact with drivers and loafers (shoes), you either don't wear socks or wear loafer socks which show a cm or so outside the shoes.
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Syedchaudhrygangadinkhan Nov 04, 2016 12:55pm
@Amjad Wyne : "Moral Values" have nothing to do with what I said. You like pink socks, you wear them, Ok "Wyne"?
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sherie Nov 05, 2016 07:50pm
I am hooked simply for the promise of the sizing bit, because he is right if its stitched right a shirt continues to fit you even if you add or lose weight a bit. It would be great to have a place one could be sure to get a good fit, and one doesn't mind paying a bit more for that one dress for special-occasion proper formal wear.
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S. A. M. Nov 06, 2016 05:20pm
I'm glad to notice there isn't any red or orange or any such girlish colours in men's store. I didn't even see those heavy embroidered petals and flowers. such an immense delight to see something plane, decent and really sober.
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