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Inside Okra: What makes this restaurant Karachi's best fine dining experience?

Inside Okra: What makes this restaurant Karachi's best fine dining experience?

Food at this sophisticated joint is not merely food but also a form of art
28 Jan, 2016

Located in a side street off bustling Zamzama, Okra has quietly made a name for itself in the years since its inception.

Okra was set up by in the '90s by Ayaz Khan and it swiftly redefined what fine dining was all about. Having experienced what the restaurant is now it comes as a surprise that Okra faced a lot of uncertainty around its opening, as Khan reveals: “In the beginning I was frightened to run my own restaurant. Working at hotels wasn’t satisfying enough.”

Khan didn't know how to express his frustration until he came to recognize his love for food. It was then that he realized opening a restaurant where he set his own standards was the only way forward.

The quaint eatery is almost always packed
The quaint eatery is almost always packed

With Okra's constantly changing menu and experimentation with ingredients and recipes, it never fails to impress its spectators. Over the years, it has perfected the art of cooking and plating. To maintain this perfection, Khan has made no compromise in his struggle to provide Karachites with cooking that truly deserves a Michelin star.

Behind the scenes in Okra's kitchen

When I entered Okra on the day I was to explore its kitchen, bright walls guided me to a food paradise that I was really excited about. What stood out most as soon as I entered the kitchen was how clean the place was. “People wearing slippers are not allowed in the kitchen, there is undeniably no compromise on hygiene,” says Khan.

An average day in Okra kitchen starts bright and early at 8 in the morning. This is the time when staff is starting preparatory services, fetching fresh vegetables and poultry goods. If one enters kitchen at this time, they can get a whiff of some mouth-watering bread in the making.

An average day in Okra kitchen starts at 8 in the morning -- it's when staff is starting preparatory services, fetching fresh vegetables and poultry goods
An average day in Okra kitchen starts at 8 in the morning -- it's when staff is starting preparatory services, fetching fresh vegetables and poultry goods

All dishes prepared in Okra’s kitchen are simple, as Mediterranean cuisine is meant to be. And that is why Mediterranean herbs and good olive oil is the base to Okra’s food and the eatery strives on making sure their food isn't unnecessarily processed.

Mr Khan in his office —Photo by author
Mr Khan in his office —Photo by author

The restaurateur shares, “We don’t want to use the freezer that much because it dehydrates food; we want our patrons to enjoy fresh, wholesome food. Nothing is pre-prepared, only rice and soup.”

The key to success: a reliable team to lean on?

One often overlooks the amount of hard work that goes into training chefs; the staff has to be trained from scratch, a process which could take up to two or three years.

Khan mentions, “It gets difficult when a trained chef leaves because it is equal to wasting years of one’s precious time and knowledge.”

Upon speaking to the head baker, Abdul Hassan, Okra's efficiency became apparent right off the bat. 'Mis en place' was the first word that came out of Hassan’s mouth; a French word which means putting in place.

Mediterranean cuisine is all about simple cookery. And that is why Mediterranean herbs and good olive oil is the base to Okra’s food
Mediterranean cuisine is all about simple cookery. And that is why Mediterranean herbs and good olive oil is the base to Okra’s food

Being the head baker he makes sure all breads are produced impeccably.

Knowing that breads are often outsourced in other restaurants, Okra has carved out a place for itself on the basis that they bake their flawless collection of breads in-house; from scones to Ciabatta, French Baguette, Olives Tapenade, Focaccia, Multi Seed Bran Bread, you name it. All these freshly baked breads are available anytime at ones doorstep by ordering online on www.okra.com.pk.

Okra has come to be known for it's steaks and fresh produce
Okra has come to be known for it's steaks and fresh produce

Clearly, Okra is not cutting corners or compromising on service, leading them to price their food on the expensive end.

Ghulam Rasool, sous-chef (the second in command in a kitchen) at Okra holds a lot of responsibility in the kitchen. From staff schedules to getting menus ready, Rasool does it all. On the other hand, Mukesh (head chef) is one of the oldest chefs at Okra. Comparing the kitchen team to a cricket team, Mukesh tends to gauge staff members by weighing out their strengths and weaknesses.

A journey for the senses

Okra succeeds in stimulating sense of taste and smell through their flawless food; it reiterates how important other senses are in contributing to a satisfactory food experience.

Food has to taste good; otherwise we won’t consume it no matter how interesting it may look or sound. And this is what Okra accomplishes, by delivering an absolute treat to our palates. I can attest to that. having tried their New Zealand mussels in Red Wine vinegar, Garlic and Parsley.

New Zealand mussels in Red Wine vinegar
New Zealand mussels in Red Wine vinegar

Considering food from an artist’s perspective, it deals with the idea of a relationship between the dish, the creator and the diner and the framework in which those three interact.

Okra's presentation of it's food is modest yet elegant. Not only are the dishes pleasing to one’s eyes but also the taste buds. We must embrace the sense of taste but also keep an eye out for the emerging hybrid art form of food at Okra, which enables foodies to experience taste and smell aesthetically.

Fillet Steak with Tipsy Mushroom and Roasted Blue cheese Potatoes
Fillet Steak with Tipsy Mushroom and Roasted Blue cheese Potatoes

Upon trying their Fillet Steak with Tipsy Mushroom and Roasted Blue Cheese Potatoes, I was just focused on the moment, the sudden explosions of flavour in my mouth, savouring every bite of the perfectly tender meat, which paired with roasted blue cheese potatoes was absolutely divine.

When offered some scones with clotted cream and jam by Mr. Khan, one couldn’t help but jump at the chance to try them out, going on to discover just how delicious and moist those scones were. With a divine combination of clotted cream and freshly made strawberry jam, it was a marriage made in heaven.

Aromatic food and fancy dessert courses to match, this food heaven could persuade a few of you to reach deep into your pockets to splurge on a fine-dining experience that will stay with you long after you've left the restaurant.

Comments

Rajesh Punjabi Jan 28, 2016 02:35pm
Why only non vegetarian food is promoted here. What about vegetarian options... You should include them as well.
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Saeed Jan 28, 2016 03:09pm
You forgot to mention the price of the food :P
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Blister Jan 28, 2016 03:11pm
@Rajesh Punjabi Sorry our bhindi is non-veg ;)
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Tomasz K. Jan 28, 2016 03:17pm
@Rajesh Punjabi Sadly, there aren't many vegetarian options around. I think, it's because majority of Pakistanis love non vegetarian food.
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Kenneth Jan 28, 2016 03:39pm
Hey, I'm still sold on Pompei!
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Acorn Guts Jan 28, 2016 03:55pm
I dared to splurge out on dinner once in my life and that was at a place in England run by a celebrity chef . I regretted my decision when I left and I've since decided not to bother with fussy fine dining ... however, Okra does look promising. Might give them a go next time I'm around.
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Mahmood Jan 28, 2016 04:08pm
The caption below on of the photographs caught my eye: "The quaint eatery is almost always packed" And yet not a single customer in any of the pictures!!!!
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ss Jan 28, 2016 04:26pm
The pictures do not look very appetising and the portions could be larger.
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faizan Jan 28, 2016 04:36pm
I have always heard of Okra from Waiters/bartenders/managers across the catering industry of Islamabad who laud Okra as the best institution to take care of its workforce both in terms of professionalism and grooming. The owner at the restaurant is heard to allocate a separate 'dressing room' for the staff along with their lockers and a shower room, laundry for their uniform, toiletries for their presentation, plus proper leaves and medical care to keep them as sustainable employees.
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S N Khan Jan 28, 2016 05:34pm
Okra by far is the best restaurant in Pakistan where every dish has it's own unique flavour. It is always a pleasure dining there and experiencing their most delicious cuisine, wonderful ambiance and great service. A very well written article, true to every word.
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ync Jan 28, 2016 05:40pm
Truly world class. As a foodie okras consistency, freshness and variety makes it so special. I just hope reservations weren't such a nightmare. Good luck Ayaz!
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Harish Motwani Jan 28, 2016 05:58pm
How do they manage to cook Mediterranean without wine / rum ?
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Harmony-1© Jan 28, 2016 06:24pm
@Mahmood - There are pictures of the food and rightly so. Why do you want pictures of the customers if the write up is about the food?
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Noman Ansari Jan 28, 2016 06:24pm
@Mahmood uhhh there is only one pic of the seating and I'm glad it was taken at a time when the eatery was empty!
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Ali Shah Jan 28, 2016 06:45pm
@Rajesh Punjabi , that's for a number of reasons, 1) The article would like to show case the items that Okra is well known for, which happen to be non-veg items. I doubt that Okra is well known for its aaloo kay samosay. 2) It's a restaurant in Pakistan, and in Pakistani culture a vast majority of people eat meat. In fact people might be offended if you only serve them aaloo bhaji, bhindi, and tinday in a party. People like to have meat items when they go outside so its natural to talk about them. 3) The article isn't "promoting" one thing over the other. They're trying to inform the public given what they think the public would like to hear (and I think the writer is close to the mark). I hope that clears things up a bit. P.S. You can always order salad. Cheers
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lmk Jan 28, 2016 06:46pm
I discovered Okra when visiting Karachi for longish spells in the 1990s, from Spain. At the time, I found its food great, cooked in simple Mediterranean ways, subtle touches of herbs, garlic, in excellent olive oils. Great to see it is still going strong, and has not compromised on quality! Cheers!!!
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AXH Jan 28, 2016 06:49pm
@Rajesh Punjabi - In Pakistan, you will not find many vegetarians.
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Feroz Jan 28, 2016 06:51pm
Excellent, keep it up !
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qamer Jan 28, 2016 08:10pm
Thanks for an excellent article. If I ever come to Karachi I will look forward to eating at Okra.
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saleem Jan 28, 2016 09:52pm
Look at the presentation.
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Sahir Sumalani Jan 29, 2016 01:34am
I just love Okra, 100 percent agreed with the author. Their fillet steak with mushroom & sherry sauce is just superb.
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Vittal Pyati Jan 29, 2016 02:42am
My favorite is Mutton Biriyani. Wonder if some reader suggest the top place to indulge. Cost is irrelevant because in terms of US$ Pakistani restaurant prices are a steal.
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Anwar Jan 29, 2016 06:29am
I 'll take dall roti over this any time
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ak4pk Jan 29, 2016 06:51am
Will give it a try next time in Karachi, the only snag is though, don't like seafood and/or rear steak. Do visit Karachi every year but am inhibited from venturing out much. The violence scares me. Karachi is nothing like what it used to be in the 90's. Miss them days!
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Irfan Husain Jan 29, 2016 09:29am
I have been eating at Okra since it opened around 20 years ago, and can attest to its consistency and innovation. While the Mediterranean food is excellent, I often order the qeemq-paratha at lunch. My favorite comfort food.
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Meengla Yip-USA Jan 29, 2016 09:53am
Meh! Having been in America for a quarter century and tasted all kinds of Western/Asian foods... The best is, in my books, Pakistani/Indian dishes. A simple roadside "Dhabba" is more enticing than the non Desi food....
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YN Jan 29, 2016 11:12am
@Ali Shah You have no idea what you're talking about. Okra has some truly exceptional veg items on the menu, including for mains.
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Nisha Dev Jan 29, 2016 11:44am
The food looks real yummy!
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Afzal Mahmood Jan 29, 2016 01:10pm
The very dishes, their description and their way of cooking/preparing and presenting really worked a great deal on my taste buds. Alas! Okra happened in Lahore. It is far away from my city.My mouth is watering. In the tongue of Ghalib Zakir Us Pariwash ka aur phir biyaan apna.
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sid Jan 29, 2016 02:40pm
I visited Okra in last years September. I remembered the month because at that time I completed my studies and wanted to give treat to my friends so i selected Okra as what i heard was that it was the best in town. After making a reservation a day earlier, I got a much congested place (if i compare it with other fine dining restaurants) for four people (little bit bulky) like me but that was also fine. the thing which disappointed me was that we ordered Lamb shank along with some other dishes, and what we noticed that there was a hair in that dish. Its not a big problem as it could happen anywhere. But when we make that thing noticed to one of the staff there, he said "agar baal agaya hai to ye to kahin bhi hosakta hai". He was very rude and the main concern for me that I paid around Rs.15,000/- for four people, which is very much expensive in terms of food and ambiance and what I heard after paying all that big sum is that k YE TO HOSAKTA HAI, without any apology or anything. Its not like that I wanted to hear sorry sir and we are giving you this and that complementary. Its about the attitude and the way how they treat their customers over there. I never recommend anyone to go over there and there is no specialty for which someone should spend around Rs. 4k to 5k per person.
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sarah Feb 01, 2016 03:40pm
@Mahmood The space is empty because the picture was taken at a time when there were no customers.
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